Quick tips, tricks of the trades, no intros or theme music... You won't have to watch me drop screws or bend nails. Most videos are made for people who know what a hammer and screwdriver are and just need a little help in the right direction *buy me a beer*-www.buymeacoffee.com/danshaffneX
That galvanized spout nipple is not good. Not sure why people use galvanized pipe on water lines. I see soot of general contractors who do that . I get calls all the time because no water flow because of the galvanized pipe.
Thank you for this perfect video, I bought another door entry door knob and bolt. If I didn’t see this video I was going to return the door knob. Thank you for doing this video, you saved me a trip to Home Depot. Thank you
You failed to notice the OSB is rotted from the windows leaking. Look at the right hand corner of the right side window especially, and see all the water damage. This is what also helped rot the rim joist as well. Same shit happened to my house. Modern vinyl windows only last 10-20yrs.
Hi, thanks for posting this: The pin blew out at the end of my wife's shower this morning, so I had to forego mine! I was a bit stressed over how difficult it may be to fix, but per your video it seems like a breeze... Will check back in with my results! .... (next day): Success! Thankfully I did NOT need to shut water main off (an outdoors hassle for my house). Everything came apart okay, I had to use a small hand saw to cut out a notch of the tub wall under the nut holding the old diverter on, so I could reach it with a deep-well socket. Anticipating a tough time loosening, I sprayed some penetrating lube on the nut and tapped it with a wrench (to vibrate free any corrosion) and it came off like a breeze. Turns out the metal attachment holding the plastic diverter flap had rusted away. (the flap was still inside the pipe, used a needle-nose pliers to pull it out). Local Ace had the Delta diverter assembly for $30. It looked slightly different (a bit longer, I think), but it fit. I dabbed some plumbers grease on the threads and o-ring before installing (no need for teflon tape on the threads) , tightened until the o-ring started to get squashed. Put everything back together and applied clear caulk around the trim piece (both the outer circumference and the inner one where it goes around the handle).. and left it overnight. This morning the shower was a success! Actually, a lot more powerful water flow now because the old diverter had been leaking, causing a loss of water pressure. So a little effort and a $30 part saved what may have been a $300 (?) plumber visit. Thanks again for the post!
Another YT plumber said that in 99% of cases the nut is almost impossible to get off and suggests to use a reciprocating saw to destroy it instead. Frankly, it's the way to go if you don't succeed right away.
do not bend the metal towards the rim joist. If anything slightly bend away, at 1/2 " or less from the bottom. As the name implies, you want that last drip, to drip without touching the joist. Yes, at some high wind locations, we bent towards the structure, but that was when it was set in epoxi, which sat on roofing. And the bend towards the structure was 2" or so high from the bottom. The goo it sat in prevented any wicking. Today you cannot buy the toxic goo.
A few notes. I was able to get the screws out of the support bar with linemans plyers. Something skinnier might be better but they were handy. It was annoying but only for 10 minutes or so. Lubed mine with white lithium and got it moving but still sticky. Great vid thank you very much!
Can you used a plastic pipe through the wall as a conduit and then run a ridged metal aluminum pipe through that and fill the end gaps with silicone? Would that hot aluminum cause the plastic pipe to melt? I wonder in case where larger bricks are used, and so some Cement will be needed. The ridged metal aluminum I have is thin, and so want to protect that metal.
My fingers were too big to hold the screws when reinstalling. I used a hook nosed needle nosed plier to hold it and seated. I had a few more cables to remove but otherwise the instructions were spot on. Better lighting helps. I used some lock-tight, great suggestion, by the way! Appreciate the detail in the video. Spot on for my 2018 Chevy Tahoe.
I received the codes for the first time. I figured out what it was, which was a Miracle. When I was putting the dishes in the dishwasher there were some plates that I thought needed some spray cleaner which foamed up. I started hearing beeping and saw the error codes. I did what you said and it worked great. But to get the foam out of the dishwasher I used my shop vac. Thanks so much for your help to me, a guy who can barely tie his Shoes, lol.
Man you deserve a 5 stars review on your video, everything was unmistakable step by step explained, it was really helpful. I was able to fix this 4 years carried problem in 5 minutes. Thank you so much!
Thank You!!! I have avoided this repair for so long after the new fluidmaster replacement did not work. I finally decided to buy Korky and with your video my toilet is working! Im so relieved and happy. Thanks so much for this video
Thank you SO much for this!!! Just had this error today and was not looking forward to calling someone and pay out a couple hundred bucks! This whole thing took me maybe 15 minutes at most and my dishwasher is up and running again! Thank you!!!
I'm so irritated. I ain't even had the thing for a month and it's already breaking. 😑 and I bought this one to upgrade from the aldi version.....well, that one still works fine. I just hate the separate buckets.
Nice video. Was able to pop off the panel and 2 connectors, found the two fallen out screw. Got the easier one back in first, then the more difficult one. Tip - use a magnetic screwdriver.