"BROTHERS IN AIR" means exactly what it sounds like. For me personally we're all brothers with the same passions an interests. My wife and children are my first love and airgunning is my second! I love hunting, plinking, modifying/repairing my own guns, and basically anything that has to do with airgunning! I started this channel to help and share with the young/first time Flashpup owners. A first PCP can be a very intimidating thing for some people but knowing your gun inside and out will only make you a better, safer air gunner. The videos are tailor-made for someone that has ZERO experience with a PCP. Things are over explained and repeated many times. This is deliberate and if you are an advanced air gunner you will probably find the videos to be just that..... Boring, long, and over explained! For those of you that like the videos and have learned/gained something, I appreciate your kind words. I am by no means an expert. Just a guy who really loves airgunning!
I didn't like your video. I loved it, so I clicked liked and subscribed. What was the fill pressure on the cylinder and what was it after the tenth shot? What is the cylinder volume and plenum volume? What is the barrel length? What is the twist rate of the barrel rifling? Would you happen to know the hammer spring K-value? If not, what is the hammer spring free length, number of total coils, wire diameter and outside diameter? Would you happen to know the 100% regulator pressure number of turns from zero pressure? Reasoning: If you set the regulator pressure at its 50% working compression and the hammer spring to 50% its working compression then you will have both at their most linear value, which will equate to consistency that will lead to precision and thus accuracy at any range, BUT! the twist rate must be known to calculate with the velocity to avoid noticeable spiraling due to excessive rotation of the projectile at range, which usually is around 75 +/- 5 yards with a 1:16 twist rate travelling over 79% Mach 1 for your shooting range then subtract 2 feet per second for every mile of wind speed and apply trigonometric formula to the angle of the wind; in other words, wind at 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock you subtract zero. speed of sound is roughly 20.04555 x square root of the absolute temperature (273.15 + degree celsius) then divide by 0.3048. For example, your temperature is 25 degree celsius, so your target velocity should not exceed: 20.04555 x sqrt (273.15 + 25} 20.04555 x sqrt (298.15) 20.04555 x 17.267 346.127 m/s divide by 0.3048 1,135.587 fps for your speed of sound Now, stay below 79% to avoid going into the transonic range (80% to 120% the speed of sound where the drag begins to increase by the cube of the velocity and continues to the 13th power right at the speed of sound, which will tear apart any projectile, if it stays there too long, just like swimming through the waves at the beach, do not stay where they are crashing, or you will be torn up like boats that wonder and remain at the breaking surf.) Powder burners stay above the speed of sound and deliver the projectile on target at above the speed of sound. Airgunners are the opposite. From the look of your video, the 50% working compression of the hammer spring is 7 / 2 = 3.5 Turns, which is exactly where your knee is. Hopefully, the regulator maximum pressure (physically and not by manufacturer recommendation) is at 300 Bar pressure then the 150 Bar regulator pressure you are set at is perfectly at the 50% working compressin, which will give you the most linear response. An analogy to view and understand the linearity of springs. Take Earth's gravity and plot its value from the pole to the equator and you will plot a somewhat S curve. The most linear portion of the S curve will be found between 30 and 60 degrees latitude, and is why the definitin of gravity is set at mean sea level and at 45 degree latitude (30+90)/2 = 45 Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge into this airgun science and how succinctly you described it. More great videos, please. Numbers do not lie, but you can lie with numbers, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. FJB Out!
The three most important factors in shooting precision from these airguns is 1) staying below the supersonic and transonic velocity thresholds, approximately 1100fps and 950fps respectively, which basically means adjusting velocities to stay below 950fps. 2) The second most important factor is fit of the pellet or slug within the barrel's bore. This is especially critical for the 25cal Flashpup which, for reasons only Hatsun knows, is overbored and significantly larger diameter than .250". To provide acceptable shooting precision, any type of lead slugs used in 25cal Flashpups should have a minimum diameter of .253". Any any type of diabolo style pellets should have minimum skirt diameters of at least .263" (or 6.68mm). Pellets with skirt diameters that are smaller than this can be made to perform well by expanding the diameter of the skirts using the conical end of an extra-fat ball point pen housing to press into the skirts and expand them, which is quite laborious but may be worthwhile if you've already purchased lots of pellets. The alternative is acquiring pellets having larger skirt diameters, one option being the original (ie., Mark I) JSB Diabolo Exact King Heavy domed pellets in 33.95 grain weight with skirt diameters varying between 6.68-6.70mm. The choked bore of the Flashpup will precisely resize the pellet skirts before they exit the muzzle, so small variations in skirt diameter are inconsequential, unless the skirt diameter is smaller than 6.68mm to begin with. Slugs, because of their solid lead design with typically smooth solid ungrooved sides, are not easily resized by a choked bore. Therefore, to perform with high precision, slugs must be of exactly the optimal diameter for each airgun's bore at the muzzle. This is the overwhelming factor why so many shooters find it so finicky and difficult to achieve great performance with slugs, and the second factor (meaning a distant second factor) is rifling twist rate which is typically not optimal for slugs in airguns designed for shooting pellets. But be aware, there can be small variations in bore diameter from gun to gun due to differences in barrel manufacturing equipment calibration and tolerances from one production batch of barrels to the next. 3) Also, the manufacturing precision of the barrel crown (the end of the bore at the muzzle) is absolutely crucial for shooting precision. If the crown is not perfectly perpendicular to the bore, or if there are any minute scratches or nicks in the terminal ends of the lands or grooves of the bore at the crown, then the rear end of the projectile will be slightly deflected up, down, left or right to some degree while exiting the muzzle, very negatively affecting shooting precision. An airgun with a defective barrel crown is a lost cause in terms of shooting precision, so either exchange the airgun for another, replace the barrel with a perfect one, or have a skilled machinist re-crown the existing barrel. Similarly, the terminal edge of pellet skirts is often nicked, crushed or distorted in a way that can cause deflection as it exits the muzzle. This is exacerbated by the fact that the skirts are hollow and therefore light-weight and easier to deflect. So, for that reason, slugs with their typically solid flat rear ends are much less susceptible to this deflection phenomenon upon exiting the muzzle and are the clear choice if you can find the optimal slug diameter to match your barrel's bore. In general, heavier weight projectiles will provide greater shooting precision because the are less easily deflected by an imperfect barrel crown and by the wind during flight. So always use the heaviest pellet or slug that will properly fit into your gun's magazine, and has the correct diameter for your barrel bore. And to maximize the performance benefits of the heavier projectile, in terms of both muzzle energy and shooting precision, you'll need to tune your airgun to higher velocities approaching or exceeding 950 fps, especially for slugs.
Mine lasted 40 top up's in a two year period. I gave it three drops of silicon oil every 5 top ups. Not sure what the problem is yet but it was making some horrible banging noises when it gave up.
Super true about miss fires, I have my Jet 1 trigger set very light, and safety doesnt really catch, but its my sweet spot. Great video! Everyone is wondering where you went in Airgun/PCP forums? You are an airgun Legend sir!
I have the flash pup synthetic stock (in .22) and I drilled a hole in the butt pad that lines up with the hammer spring tensioning screw so that I don't have to take the gun apart to adjust the hammer spring I just use a Long Long Allen wrench... hatsan should do this mod to all their guns because it makes tuning easy-peezy. Just loosen the bolt grub screw ..stick in your 8" long Allen wrench...watch your chrono and start turning
I appreciate the safety tips but besides that the only reason I watched was to see the capabilities of fps when turning the hammer spring from lowest to highest. Did not get this from the video.
So when your turning out your increasing spring tension? When I turn out on my BSA R10 I'm decreasing spring tension and velocity. I just want to make sure I get all this right it's a good video.
Just watched your video mate mine runs but no air comes out it also sounds quieter I wonder if the seals are gone or I broke the shaft like you talked about at the end of the video any ideas why it would make noise like it was pumping but quieter and no air coming out ??
Just bought the latest version from amazon tuxing store. Slight design tweaks exteranlly but expect the internals to be the same. Glad it's worked out ok.
Still a relevant video 3 years later brother! I have A Hatsan Hydra QE i just got and will be doing these mods to. Ordering the DonnyFl adapter now to screw on a moderator as well to make it whisper quiet. Thanks for the highly detailed video explaining the process!😊
Thank you for ALL of your videos. All are fantastically done. Not to mention, SO very helpful. I have a synth .22, installed a huma reg played around, and found the very same thing happened with mine 920-25 and 825-30 fps with the hybrids. Brother these are 120 yd guns all day long with a slight breeze. Even farther.thanks again for your help in getting it there.
I just got a flash. This thing leaks like a civ..and due to stat regs if I send it back, I'd have to use a FFL to get the gun back. So I'll be doing all the work myself because I'm not using ffl for a air gun..but ur video is a God send. Thank bro
Your videos are superb in every way imaginable--I've watched many of them. However, I've got to say that this video just made up my mind that no, I'm not going to even try to insert a regulator into my beloved Flashpup .25 QE Syn (after shooting tens of thousands of pellets), no matter how badly I want the increased precision from a regulator. I can't even imagine machining a custom 4-foot breaker bar and another custom machined rod just to open the air cylinder--and then having to go through this entire procedure over and over (even if it's slightly easier after adding grease) to adjust that regulator. Thanks muchly for your patient, highly informative videos.
I have the Reggi Flash QE. As an air rifle hunter, I would like to express my thanks and gratitude. This video alone has seriously improved my...everything hunting with it. Thank you.
I just got a new hatsun flash pup it's not holding air it's coming out of the barrel tip and where you put the pellet I believe that's the breech,any info would help
Very helpful as I have same gun and was in the fence about regulator. I care more about accuracy than speed. Also I like your set up there. Couldn't have done better myself. Keep up the good work and thank you Sir.
First thanks for the videos they help alot to a new air gunner!!!! So my Flash pump 25 cal. tipped over onto a hard wood floor. It lost all pressure. Now when I pump air into the tank, it holds air until I cycle the bolt and as I open the chamber the sir leaks out. I`ve replaced all the o rings with the proper replacement o rings. Any idea why the air is leaking out here?
i think your spring in your flashpup is different than mine. at 150bar with 0 turns out i am doing 772fps with 25.39gr and I tap out at 1.75-2 full turns at 813-818fps. more hammer tension does nothing past 2 full turns.
I've had mine since the beginning of the year and I love it recently got a regulator for it but I just haven't had the time to learn how to install it fully yet I've been looking for a video for this gun but I haven't seen one just for the flash pup which I've watched a couple times I just don't want to mess up
no idea how you were able to accomplish this. at 150bar i cant do this no matter the spring tension. 20 shots 25.39 806fps average off the huma regulator. Not a whole lot of change for the 25.39, i see more change using the 33.95. Those are about 725 average off the 150bar reg. maybe you have the xxl plenum?
another tip, its not really necessary to remove the 3 screws from the breech and remove the valve from breech. The trigger mechanism will be in your way however to work on the filing section. You can remove the valve if it makes your life easier. However to tune the regulator going forward I recommend not removing the valve as its just going to cause further problems with the o-rings inside the breech. You should be able to unscrew the cylinder unless you put it on with he-man strength which isn't necessary at all. Remove the cylinder and likely at this point the o-ring from regulator will probably be stuck to the valve, you can probably leave it there. after cylinder removed, remove regulator and make adjustment, make sure tiny lube is still on o-rings and the lip of the regulator and then re-assemble. This will save a whole lot of hassle. If you dont mind the noise while adjusting leave the shroud off.
another tip, its not really necessary to remove the 3 screws from the breech and remove the valve from breech. The trigger mechanism will be in your way however to work on the filing section. You can remove the valve if it makes your life easier. However to tune the regulator going forward I recommend not removing the valve as its just going to cause further problems with the o-rings inside the breech. You should be able to unscrew the cylinder unless you put it on with he-man strength which isn't necessary at all. Remove the cylinder and likely at this point the o-ring from regulator will probably be stuck to the valve, you can probably leave it there. after cylinder removed, remove regulator and make adjustment, make sure tiny lube is still on o-rings and the lip of the regulator and then re-assemble. This will save a whole lot of hassle. If you dont mind the noise while adjusting leave the shroud off.
I recommend you don't remove the shroud the way he did it. It is too inconsistent feeling. dis-assemble the QE shroud paying very careful mindset of the order the baffles and plastic pieces removed. Set them aside in the exact same order and orientation as you removed them (this is important!). Then use a 9/16 socket with extension and undo the nut and slide it out easily. Do the process in reverse to re-assemble, it is very fast and feels better.
to test and make sure your grove and notch work properly, re-assemble the valve, tighten down your bleed screw, put your pressure gauge back on and then pump air into the cylinder. It should blow air out the notch you made if done correctly. quite a stream of air should blow through it. Once satisfied there, then put the regulator in at your set pressure.
after looking closely at the 3 set screws. the rear one farthest from trigger goes into a recessed hole, the middle one goes in a recessed hole, the one closest to trigger just presses up against the valve tube. only back out the middle hole completely. the other 2 grub screws back out until even with stock that is enough to escape the rubber o-rings when you pull it out (don't bother remove them, is hassle to put back). On re-assembly look down the middle hole for alignment with the recess in the valve hole. You don't have to remove that middle screw but its good probably to remove for alignment. When re-inserting use silicone grease and be careful not to gouge o-rings on the holes as you can cut into the o-rings if you are not careful, I gouged both of mine on re-insertion. The o-rings seat past the first and second holes from the trigger.
***** 5 star rating on this video. Outstanding job I can not express how helpful it was. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it. Keep up the good work.
