I'll echo the very positive comments written so far. As Jeremy states in this video, if you are watching this video, you are either in the planning phase of doing this work or are in the middle of it and are tearing your hair out, trying to figure out how to get that torsion bar out of the lower control arm. To further complicate this process, Ford no longer makes these torsion bars, so the option of going "all new" is NOT an option. I am in the planning phase and am grateful for Jeremy's detailed description of how to get the torsion bar out. It just going to make the job go that much more smoothly.
Thanks for the positive comment. Helping people with things that I struggled with is exactly why I do it. I use RU-vid a lot and want to give back in my small way.
If you're worried about your bumper getting scratched, you shouldn't be owning a 4×4. You know driving it wears down the tires, right? Running the engine creates internal wear. Parking it outside will eventually fade the paint. Using the brakes wears doen the pads and rotors. You're gonna ruin that Bronco if you use it. Put it back in its box so it stays prestine.
Thank you for an inspiring video. I was wondering which to buy between powered thum and manual one but this video inspired me as the powered thumb can be folded to work out when ripping job and open to grab somthing that shortened the working time dramatically.
Nicely done video, with tons great points! I have 1985 cat d3b dry setup they are very simlar in designs. I recently pulled my steering clutches and brakes and installed all metal disc with the bronze faced linings (they are made to run dry,) major upgrade for the d3's! Thanks Nate
A very nice project. Well, at least up to the final step. Didn’t you hear that paint is the worst thing to put on something like this. Now the thing looks like a new bucket, and you can’t stick it in the dirt. Really, that is a nice project, and I like what I saw of your shop. A 76 yrs old retired toolmaker said that.
Using paralleled 4/0 gives you an ampacity of 360 A you cannot use the exception in the code book for 4/0 aluminum cable rating at 200 A. But when you go from your transfer switch to your panel you must now use 250 MCM aluminum or 3/0 copper cable to meet code. Your 400 amp breaker is now your service disconnect. Any sub panels off of that need to be rated at the rating of the overcurrent device that they are terminated. Your work looks very nice. Did the inspector question the conductor sizing?
Hi Jeremy, thanks for the great video. Was wondering if you have any follow-up to this product? Wondering if you still like them…..how they have held up….was the XL the right size?
They have been great. I haven’t had any reason to remove them though. They are very durable and yes the XL’s are a good size for this style of bronco. No mud flap stops everything but I’ve been pleased. These tires throw a lot of rocks and as I mentioned in the video, we live down a 2 mile gravel road. When I get on to the highway and up to speed I hear them catching all kinds of rocks. Good for my paint and I’m sure people driving behind me also.
Good job, especially for someone learning as they go. I have a 1994 d37e-5 in need of this now. TEC (kamotsu) says 120 hrs labor, 26k and some change. Parts 26k and some change. Total 53k and some change. 😮😂😢
I think I was able to get the seal from an auto parts store or McGuire bearing company. The bearing is a genuine Komatsu part and I just did a Google search for the part number and found it online somewhere. It’s not a cheap bearing if I remember correctly, it was like $300.
I just put clutches in mine also, but I am having a hard time putting the break linkage and the cover back together. Do you have any advice? Thanks for the video I watched it several times.
Oh ya, that was super hard. I can’t really remember. I do remember having almost everything assembled and putting the cover over the brakes and then having to insert a pin I believe patience and time is what it took.
You are not an electrician, but you did good! Looks good! The phrase 4 o is really 4 ought. Or 4/0. The conduits the connect from the new disconnect to the the sub panels should be 2 in. Good job again!
I know 4 ought is the correct term, I always assumed 4 0 was the slang term. That’s good to know about the conduit size. I thought that I pulled up a chart to tell me what size conduit I would need but maybe I just went with the smallest size that I would be able to make work. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the tip on the alteration of the rear bracket. I will be purchasing a set of these for my Wildtrak when it comes in. Your video and review have helped me a great deal.
Can the H / bucket link be refurbished? Mine is a little worn out. Got a new pin and new seals, bushings were still fine…but the seals are 5mm and stick out a little now :((
no, I mean how many hours are on the machine? I'm judging from your track wear that this was used quite a bit before the steering got to this point? Also, just fyi, Im off grid where I may be overhauling mine so, because your video was so well done, I was able to snip pictures from the vid, save to flashdrive before transferring to my phone......now I have some great stills to help me through the process! well done! @@jeremydiy
Oh, 2500. The tracks seem pretty low quality so they may look like they have more hours on the machine than it does. Glad the hear that this should help.
The load wires to the panels are not rated for 400 amps so shouldn't this transfer switch feed in to a distribution panel first with 2-200 amp mains for proper overcurrent protection for load side conductors?
The transfer switch is the distribution center. The incoming 400 amps is split into two 200 amps before it goes out to the panels. That’s how I can run 4/0 aluminum to the panels.
Best vid I have seen on RokBlokz install as you were only one that pointed out rubbing on bumper and issue with removing; also why does RokBlokz not pre-build flaps other thatn the bracket?
It's either rocks and shit hitting the inside of the bumper or a few screw heads. I do agree on them being built before they ship. Maybe it makes them cheaper?
If you can before order make sure you know what you need there website is kind of confusing and customer service sucks cannot talk to anyone crash bar no crash bar holy shit how the hell are you supposed to know 🤪🤪🤪
Hi, 99 Ford expedition 4wd 5.4L here. Is there a tool to just push the lower control arm bushings out and the new ones in? I bought the four bushings (Moog) in Amazon, but nobody wants to replace them. They tell me to buy the lower control arms instead. I really need to fix it. It's not taking alignment, and my new tires with now 5000 miles need to be replaced soon. * I have to add, the ball joints are new, only 40K miles.
Yes there’s a way to do that. I haven’t ever needed to but I know people that have. Maybe talk to the auto part store and see if they have a tool to rent.
Looking like that large bearing completely grenaded on me! Chunks of metal when the drive oil was drained! Where can that bearing be purchased?? I’ve found ONE, for nearly $350!!
Not sure which bearing you’re talking about but I think I looked them up by part number and found them on eBay. If it’s the bearing from the clutch to the sprocket, ya those are expensive.
Thank you for the reply. The bearing seems to be on back order. If possible, I have a couple of questions: the access plug to get to the brake clutch bolts is frozen, it’s now stripped out! Is it worth drilling it out, or should I just use a swivel head 17mm wrench to remove those bolts? Also, once those bolts are removed, does the clutch disc assembly just lift out?? I can feel that the bearing that the clutch assembly connects to is sloppy and likely destroyed. Any other info on this project would be appreciated! All of my steering is perfect, just had that bearing grenade on me and it would stop that side and sound horrible!
@stephenlarue6842 I think it’s worth getting that plug out. Without that access it’s going to be really hard putting it all back in. You can do a couple things, drill the centers out and use an easy out tool (the biggest one you can) to try and brake it free or weld a bolt head to it so you can put a socket on it. Which ever route you go I would soak it in penetrating oil and heat it up just before trying to brake it free. After you get those bolts off the plates on both sides, the clutch is free. I used a bar and a rope to support the weight of the clutch while I was taking it apart. It’s heavy, probably about 50 pounds.
I marked the torsion key bolt before I removed it. That allowed me to get it close when I installed it. Then I measured from the ground to a fixed point on the truck to make sure the right and left sides were the same height.
