Welcome to my automotive channel! I'm a gearhead and recent Mech. Engineering graduate with a passion of building cars DIY style and pursuing unique automotive experiences. I want to document my life here, with new automotive content weekly!
Current vehicles in my garage: 1995 BMW E36 325ic, turbocharged 1996 BMW E36 318ti, racecar? 2017 Honda Civic Si, daily driver
Great job with the video! Do I need to have the engine in TDC if I wanted to replace that vanos unit with a rebuilt one? Also, what were the torque specs on the screws? Thanks.
Is it absolutely necessary to rotate the crank pulley CCW for the 16mm of extra clearance with the pistons? I currently have the flywheel lock pin installed on my M52 and I don't want to remove that if possible. I want to remove my cams to replace my lifters. Also, curious why it's necessary to pull all the lifters out at once. Can you replace each of 24 lifters individually with a single magnet?
actually there was another video where they went over this and while these are more expensive they actually dont work as good as the ones that are just a cone shape.
The biggest deterrent is cost and the need for OEM alloy wheels AND the few brands and models they make for. Who steals oem wheels on just a toyota honda etc?
Hello. Thanks alot for your nice video. I could solve a stuck vanos issue with that. The guys before was putting in the spring and coil wrong way so it couldnt work.. also i want to link an video which allowed me to change he seals of the single vanos without touching the timing it works good but is a bit tricky with the screws inside. Its found with seraching " Rebuilding E36 M52 Vanos the "WRONG" way! No Re-timing needed! || E36 Turbo Build [Ep. 8]" its not the wrong way just without taking the vanos completly off. for me it worked good. Thanks alot for your video again.
8:08 See an issue in 2019 fk8. There's a huge grey tape covered wire preventing this portion of console from being released. Can't seem to find it in another video. This wire connects to a portable charging bed, under it there is a vonnector that I disconnected. 2. There are no clips to undo. The big wire above seems to bundle all of those 3. The key fab sensor in the back of the console is bolted behind a plastic with two screws and the wire itself is also held against panel with a locking nut you kind of have to unbury ●Also on my case parking brake, drive mode sensors etc have similar plastic nut in the plastic wall as well. Albeit thanks for video
The bigger question is how this compares to a new rubber bushing rather than comparing it to a 20 years dead piece of rubber. Whether poly is adding unnecessary vibration to the steering.
i live in new england, both of my e36s have 240k miles on the chassis with zero rust, my 95 m3 just has a tiny little bit of surface rust on the jack point from a scratch but it only took 5 minutes to fix.
I just installed these exact lights today to my 2021 Honda Civic Sedan (Sport). Thanks to your tutorial, I was able to safely, efficiently, and successfully installed them with little to no issues at all. Keep up the amazing work! 🙌🏻✨
Very nice review of what's needed. Thinking about using an M52/M50 block bored to 86.5 as a base for a turbo motor for my e36 m3. Was there any discussion on milling or balancing the crankshaft? I'm just going through your back catalog so maybe I will find it later on.
I know this was 6 years ago. But those led bulbs with large COB led chips are the worse ones. I’m sure nowadays we got way better led hulb technology that performs better. Go for Lasfit
Advancelocks I believe that these are pretty great and bulletproof but obviously if you have enough time or in a shop with tools then the story changes. But it’s obvious that their sponsor of this guys the only question is is there any flaw in the locking mechanism ? Which can be its breaking point? Only time will tell
On the outside of the Rimgard is a little notch ~ if you look closely that "notch" is what you're supposed to line up to the lug nut hole, matching where you turned the lines of the inside locking mechanism. The outside notch is right by your finger, if you pause @ 8:56
if you guys are going to consistently drive your car hard after going FI don't overlook cooling system upgrades (aluminum radiator and expansion tank ect..) braking, and suspension upgrades (control arms, bushings, motor and trans mounts, guibo disc ect..)
This and others of your videos were very helpful in guiding me on tearing down the top end of my 92 325is to replace the head gasket. Not sure if you're willing to answer some questions, but now that it's back together, I'm trying to figure out why the temp gague rises to the red after only a few minutes from a cold start. New thermostat, new water pump, ne temp sensor, new overflow tank.
Personally I prefer how halogens look for the interior, gives it a “warmer” or “cozier” feel. I would strongly recommend getting good LEDs and swapping out all of the lights on the back of the car, they look so much better
I did see this wheel lock broken and removed on another channel that tests wheel locks. There were no wheel locks that couldn't be defeated, it was a matter of how much time it took and these did take longer than others, so it's not a bad choice. Just like all locks, they are all defeatable it's about the difficulty level of the breach and time. The longer it takes the more of a deterrent it is. Criminals are lazy opportunists and unless they really need something, they will move on to easier prey.
