This channel is for you if you enjoy repairing, building and fabricating things. I focus mostly on electronics, home improvements and my hobby of playing with an old Supra.
@@1nteller I have owned this car for 28 years. It’s very difficult for me to estimate in that time how much I’ve spent. I have traded and bartered for parts. I’ve fabricated many pieces and built the wiring harness. I would say my build cost is somewhere in the ballpark of $20k.
Thanks so much for this video! I had a HRX-217 that had developed a very slow oil leak that I missed. So, it got too low on oil and seized. I followed your steps and brought it back to life today! Thanks again!!!
I think you should have replaced all the backlights so you have have all new ones to prevent any of the old ones going out and having to go through it again.
@@SupraSeth I completely understand. My 75R6E1 just went out this morning with a backlight issue, that’s how I found your video. I’m debating whether to try to fix it myself or just buy a new one. I can buy a newer model for $498, which is far less than what I paid in 2020 for my 75R6E1. Great job by the way on fixing your friends tv.
Like others, thank you so much for this video. I had already decided in my mind that I was going to have to buy a new honda because it was probably time and didn't want to pay 300 or whatever to get it fixed. Saved me a thousand dollars. It was due for an oil change but I didn't think I had let it run out of oil so I will be better about that going forward, that's for sure. I hope I didn't do any permanent damage but it purred even better than it had been especially after did overall maintenance on it like inspect the bearings on the blade and clean all the dried up grass down there. I threw in a new spark plug as well since I had it removed. I had to go to Lowe's to get the marvel mystery oil anyway so another 10 bucks was definitely worth it. Thanks again for preventing my mower to placed at the end of the driveway this time!
Now that was funny! My camera guy called in sick this day. It was all a fella could do to get it all on video. Thank you for the feedback and for your support!
Great ride! I was looking through your video playlist to see if there is info on the actual 2jz swap, but it seems like the videos are all from after the swap. Do you have a build thread on Supraforums or any other site where I can see how you built this beauty?
Thank you for the kind feedback! I have some videos that show some of the pieces of the build in the Supra playlist. I have hours of video to edit. Is there anything in particular that you’d like to see?
@SupraSeth, thanks for the reply. As an MK3 owner myself, I’d like to know which parts you retained from your original setup and which parts you had to replace to make the Aristo engine work. Although there’s information available about this type of swap dating back to the early 2000s when non-VVTi engines were more readily available, it would be great to see how this swap is executed today using the VVTi engine. Previously, there was a lot of confusion about which 2JZ engine could be used on the MK3 due to the different oil pans, motor mounts, head designs, which sensors would work, etc. Much like your informative BBK video, I’d love to see how your engine swap came together using the VVTi engine.
Great and honest video. I wish i would have came across this video before tossing the kit back in the box after 20min of getting little to no vacuum from my 80 gallon compressor. I ended up performing the flushing/ bleeding process via 2 people (my son and I) which took 30min total for all 4 wheels.
I love your car! Not hating but the video/sound quality wasn't the best. I use a cheap external Olympus ME-51S Stereo Microphone plugged into a GoPro Hero4. If you can tape the mic to the back of the car out of the airstream your golden.
Great work! I used to have a 1988 Supra turbo, now I’ve built a 600 whp 91 300zx tt. Stand alone haltech with working AC. Drivability is key for me also. I’m thinking about removing the clutch fan to go with Spal electric fan. Do you have heat issues?
I’m clutch and wouldn’t change it for the world. E-fans have their place, but for daily driving or grand touring; nothing beats a clutch fan as for efficiency. An alternator is only 60% efficient, so only 60% of the crank power it consumes is producing electrical energy. Then an efan is 80% efficient at best. So doing the math, driving an efan is far less efficient with consumption of horsepower to move air than a clutch fan, which is nearly 100% efficient mechanically. Most people assume an alternator is just a free spinning power source, but the fact is the more of a load the alternator is under the more of a rotational drag is placed on the crank.
With any pump that draws more current than the factory fuel pump, the wiring should be upgraded. If you reference my other video’s, I added a dedicated fuel pump circuit off from my primary fuse box with 10 gauge wire feeding a Bosch style 30A relay and 10 gauge continuing to the pump. I then upgraded the ground as well.
Thank you for your feedback! I’m not a fan of spacers, but I’m sticking with these Momo’s. I’ve wanted Momo’s on my car since before I could drive.😂 At least I have longer studs that run through all mounted layers.
Hello, I’m almost ready to start up my car and I hooked up the battery and no power or lights inside. Can you help me out with a wiring diagram or something? I went from battery in the trunk to starter, from starter I went to distribution terminal, from distribution terminal, I went to alternator, and fuse box but I only tied it one green wire that was previously connected to battery when I had my 7m. I tested with a light in fuse box and I had no power. I’m just super confused on what wires in the fuse box I need to connect to 12v. Also where to connect my alternator wire. I connected the 3 wires on molex connector but I have the larger gauge wire just going to distribution terminal from battery.
Hello, I would suggest searching for online MK3 wiring diagrams. Based on what you’ve explained it sounds concerning and complex. I have seen people using distribution posts and I believe it actually complicates things and makes electrical meltdowns more likely. My approach is most of the time to simplify and upgrade the factory wiring. Use the factory distribution locations, neaten up the factory wiring loops and use factory fuse holders. I did capture some more video of further wiring updates that I’ve made and will work on making another video. It basically shows how to add 4 additional circuits in your factory engine fuse box and how to upgrade the alternator fuse/ wiring - while also preserving and protecting lower current factory wiring.
i did this to my mk3 only thing i did different is a used 350z brembo rotors which i had to use spacers between caliper and wheel hub i love these brakes world of a difference
Looking good. I just found and bought a unmolestedly factory 89 Turbo with the 5 speed. It has only 92000 original miles. Zero rust! It was a barn find and looks only 3 to 5 years old. Incredible find. I am going to stay with the 7M but I like the direction that you are going with your build.
I didn’t end up driving with the R35 coils, so unfortunately I can’t really say. I was mocking up a harness for another Supra build. I’ve since shipped them out. I’m kind of on the fence about them.
Thanks this is the best video I have seen about vacuum bleeding with that tool, which I have too. Yesterday I used it to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. Works great for that. But actually bleeding, not great. I feel like it just sucks air from the stupid bleeder screw threads, even if I use grease to seal it. The only variable I have not played with is the pressure from my compressor. I think the instructions say 70 psi. Have you tried different pressures with any better results? Thanks
Thank you for the feedback. I did try to adjust the regulated air pressure without any improvement. I also tried two different compressors without any improvement. I also read the instructions and in my kit, the instructions were very vague about air - making no mention of pressure, but more about having enough CFM of flow. The one compressor that I used was a Grainger “Speedaire” 60Gal with a high CFM rating.
Thank you very much for the feedback! I figured that this wasn’t a unique situation. Based on the other comments, it appears to be common with this model.
Hello, I purchased it from Vivid Racing. Here is a link: www.vividracing.com/vis-racing-ams-style-black-carbon-fiber-hood-toyota-supra-8692-p-151907656.html
