For a $50 RC the servos are decent. Are they competition grade responsive? No. But for something out of the box to get you started in small scale RC, they're not bad. Would I spend the money on better electronics for one of these RC vehicles? Probably not, and instead consider getting a higher grade 1/28 RC from the likes of Atomic or MWX or TG Racing.

If the carb is frozen shut, I'm going to guess the entire engine is also seized. Very common with nitro engines, especially if they've sat for any length of time with even trace amounts of nitro fuel in them. What I've found works really well is to take the entire engine out of the car, remove the pull-starter (if it has one) and any other plastic bits, put it on an old (unneeded) small cookie sheet tray, and put it in an oven on the absolute lowest setting for about 20-30 minutes. This will heat up and melt whatever residual oil solids reside inside the engine, allowing you to turn it over and disassemble the engine. You can also let the entire engine assembly soak in nitro fuel for a while. But that's assuming you have some nitro fuel lying around that you're willing to sacrifice. The oven method is the easiest option for most folks.

@RCRacingLegends thanks for the info! Oven is a great idea. After I posted, I actually got it unstuck, cleaned and put back on car. I will have to do the engine as well, but yea I might just bake it lol

Thanks for your concern Luke, but I'm doing ok just been super busy and haven't had much time to make videos. But I am hoping to get back into doing so soon. There's a backlog of builds that need to get underway. I have, however, branched into a slightly different aspect of RC. I've been designing and 3D printing highly detailed wheels for folks who want to add nicer, more detailed and/or period correct wheels for their RC builds. I'd like to create videos about that, but I'm just not sure how to approach it. If you check out the community tab here on the channel (or check out rcracinglegends on Instagram or Facebook) you'll see the wheels that have been launched.

Yeah I kind of agree. I think when I bought these the price was less than $50 each. Which isn't bad even considering everything they need just to get them running "ok". But if the price has gone up by $20 each I say consider something else that's a bit more sorted out of the box.

You probably need to go into the transmitter's steering settings and reverse the steering direction.

Glad to hear you like the video and that you've found it helpful.

I have no specific experience adding a stand-alone gyro for one of these K969 or K989 RC cars, so I can't definitively say whether one can be added. However, there are several 1/24 1/28 gyros available on the market that may work. Check out sites like Banggood or Aliexpress for some inexpensive options from Dasmikro or AGFRC. The issue I see here is these cars use a 2-in-1 transmitter/ESC combo which may or may not allow the use of a gyro. This is why most folks who want to drift these little cars typically swap out the stock electronics with better aftermarket items.

But, why is my screw so loose

I'm still sitting on this project. Really haven't done much of anything with it since posting this video. I have collected a few vintage bits for it, like a brushed motor and vintage Novak ESC. But beyond that it's been on the back burner as I've had other projects taking priority. But I do appreciate the suggestions.

If I recall correctly the short brace is actually for a stand-up style transmission that has been out of production for a while now. So it's essentially just a left over part that never got deleted from the tooling. You'll find a few items like that in your B6.4 kit.

@@RCRacingLegends thank you that clarifies. Excellent video!

Glad you've found the B6.3 build series useful. I've just measured the rear rectangular shape at the rear end of the chassis on my B6.3 and it's the same length as yours - 45.8mm. So it looks like you more than likely have the carpet version of the B6.3. Another way to check - although a lot more involved - is to remove the gearbox and rear suspension. If you have the B6.3, there will be a "+3mm" screen printed in white letters on the chassis in that area (the dirt version won't have anything printed on it). Again, it's more involved but it's the surest way to verify if it's a carpet or dirt version. Hope that helps.

@@RCRacingLegends not wanting to over react but that is very very helpful. Thank you, that clarifies things. Thanks again👍😊😊

@@stuartgc8950 You're very welcome

@@RCRacingLegends sorry, just one thing more. I notice in your build video that the chassis you show, doesn’t appear to have the embossed logo? Do you think it may be because not all B6.3 carpet chassis had the logo? I really appreciate your help clarifying this for me. Stuart.

I'm not sure what embossed logo you're referring to.

It's a Tamiya TGS

In the video description, I mention that newer k969/K989 cars have a larger hole in the servo arm. I also mention a potential solution too.

@@RCRacingLegends ah, I missed that. thank you. so you think that one ball screw in the parts kit you linked will go into the upper hole? hm, might be worth a shot...

If you read through some of the comments, a few folks have suggested a few different potential solutions, but the ball screw in the linked kit is probably the easiest and most straight forward solution. The link I posted is to buy the set off banggood.com but I'd suggest searching eBay for the same product to see if you may be able to get it delivered a bit quicker if you're in a hurry.

@@RCRacingLegends word, thank you so much and happy racing

In my experience Tamiya ball diffs are pretty good when it comes to maintenance. They don't typically require a lot of adjustment or re-lubrication after a few runs. But in saying that I do agree with going with a gear diff for absolute minimal maintenance and durability. I may swap the ball diff out of my Racing Fighter for the factory gear diff for that very reason.

Thank you very much. I hope you found it useful, if not mildly entertaining.

@@RCRacingLegends I built mine in 2018, its bone stock with the plastic bushings. An insanely great deal for anyone interested in building their first RC car kit. How has it held up for you?

@@PartsTreeC I couldn't agree more. I've often suggested to anyone looking to get into the hobby (or getting back into the hobby) should consider any of the DT03 based buggy kits. The low price, straight forward build, and durable design makes them an excellent entry level RC. And an ample supply of hop-up parts means it can grow with you as you progress and start looking for more performance. The only caveat I give folks is to be careful and not go out and buy every hop-up part out there (kinda like I did). Not because they aren't worth it, but because you'll end up spending a pretty penny on something that is still just an entry level buggy. Instead, I tell folks to start with a set of inexpensive bearings and run the car as it is out of the box. Then when you want more performance, look at an inexpensive brushless motor/ESC combo with a 2S or 3S Lipo, and only replace whatever parts break after that. Then start saving your money for something that's a bit more up-market. As for my own Racing Fighter, it's held up well, although I will admit I haven't run it much since getting things dialed in. But that's what happens when you have more RC projects than time.

What turn motor and which ESC?

If you read the video description there's a note that mentions this is a mod that can only be carried out on earlier WLToys 1/28 scale cars. About a year or so ago they changed the servo horn on these vehicles and you can't perform this mod the way it's laid out on the video. Instead you have to use some additional hardware. There's a link in the description to it.

@@RCRacingLegends Thank you! I did grease the differentials and that did smoothen things out but it seems like the tires are still stiff. So I guess I've to look into more ways to making this smoother because I'm unable to have smooth slower drifts and this also overheats the motor a lot.

Yep. And not just the gearbox casing but a number of the suspension pieces and a few other parts had been dyed black by a previous owner. Unfortunately it wasn't a very good dye job because all the dyed parts turned a strange purple color. And what's worse they've proven very difficult to clean and restore back to their original white color.

I couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, NOS parts for these old gold pan cars have become more and more scarce (some six gear transmission parts have become unobtanium) so restoring them isn't just becoming difficult but also more expensive. Still a fun activity though.

Glad you found the video helpful. The differences between the RC10 B6.3 and the latest B6.4 are extremely minor. The assembly process is basically identical, so this build series should be useful to those building the latest buggy. As for the upper shock mounts, yes that play is very normal. Don't worry, it doesn't effect the buggy's performance in anyway.

Yes, that's normal. The extra bearings are used in the ball diff that's included with the B6.3D (dirt) version of the buggy.

Try banggood.com, you might be able to get one there. But your best bet would be if you have a local hobby shop close by, you could take the car there and they may have something that will work.

I'm glad you found the build series helpful.

Same

And I mean like the parts you adjusted and stuff

@@randysanchez1397 If you just got yours then you may not be able to perform this modification as it comes out of the box. It's my understanding that the folks WLToys changed the servo arm earlier this year on these K-series of cars, and you can no longer move the screw from the lower hole to the furthest one as the whole is a bit too big. You can still perform this modification but you'll need a 3.5mm ball stud with an M2 thread, or you'll have to fill the larger hole with a plastid filler and reuse the old screw that came with the car. I have a link to a 3.5mm ball stud kit I bought on Banggood.com in the video description. I hope that helps.

@@RCRacingLegends wow you don’t understand how much I appreciate your fast reply that makes sense okay I thought the change was to the part itself I was confused like well my arm looks like yours I’ll check it out see how it fits What do you suggest I do for wheels and stuff idk where to even start on finding reliable info everyone shows you what they did but not really how lol I even bought a hb toy 86 to body swap

@@randysanchez1397 I would suggest checking out Beaver's Hobby Channel here on RU-vid. He has a lot of great information re: these WLToys (and other 1/28 scale) RC cars. As for hop ups and upgrades, I tend to get mine from sites like Banggood.com or even eBay.com. Mounting scale bodies and things of that nature typically require that you have to either build or modify parts from spare plastic so that you can get them to fit. There's good groups on Facebook around these cars that can help you with that. But before you run out to start buying upgrades, I would suggest that you first learn to drive and drift the car as it comes out of the box. Then, when you reach the limits of what the car can do stock, start looking at buying upgrades and things of that nature. Otherwise, you could end up spending 3 times what you bought the car for in the first place only to be disappointed in it, not because the car is crap but because your skills aren't up to par.

@@RCRacingLegends oh yeah I hear you lmao I’ve been having a ball with it stock an sounds good thank you so much for the tips I am pretty handy with kydex/abs plastic Im just not sure what mods are even worth getting I just want some wheels right now 😭

Are you referring to the aluminum gear diff cover from Team Associated? Or some other gear diff cover? Do you have a link?

@@RCRacingLegends referring to the plastic one that comes with the kit. Tried many ways to mount it . Seems to me I am missing something? Not much in the instructions either.

@@KelseyShemeley Have you checked Part 3 of this build series? I cover the assembly of both gear and ball diffs, and assembly and installation of the entire gearbox. The diff cover install should be there: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zf3G95lXG9Y.html

@@RCRacingLegends end of your video I see the plastic diff cover in the top right bin. Doesn't look like installed the cover.

@@KelseyShemeley In the instruction manual what is the part number of the diff cover you're referring to?

Glad you found the video helpful. Enjoy your B6.4 .