Welcome to my channel. Im a long time air cooled VW fanatic so you will see lots of interesting stuff as it relates to old Volkswagens. I like to find anything and everything that may be needed, may of come from and or may look cool on Type 3 Notch, Fast, Square & T34 Ghias as well as later T2 Bay Window Bus Campmobile. So please follow along. I never know what Ill find, film and share.
Hello , I have a question for you on another video you did about the ambulance fans . If you have any close by that you can grab measurements for me i would appreciate it. Thanks
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I have eberspacher BN4 , but it need restoration , and test to see how its run Need your help Can you send me a correct connection for electrical wire ?
Hi, it's Alessandro. I am restoring a Eberspacher X2/1 from '78 and I don't get impulse into the fuel metric pump. Everything else works, Glow working, fan working, circuit pump working. The black cable coming from fan that is connected to one pole of the metric pump that should give pulses....it is dead. Do you think the problem comes from the electric motor? Am I missing something ?Thanks for taking your time.
Very cool campers! I'm interested in the alternator upgrade you did on your '77 Westfalia. What's the make/model of the 75 amp alternator you installed? Any modifications needed? I ask because I have an orange 1974 Westfalia that I'm in the process of restoring, almost done. It's an automatic and has a replacement 2L motor from a '76 bus, but I kept the carbs from my '74 on it. I'm planning to install lithium batteries, one will be for power when camping, and the other is designed for starting the engine as well as backup power. I also plan to install solar panels with all the needed equipment (inverter/charger, DC-DC charger, solar charge controller). From what I've read, I believe it'll be better to have a higher amp alternator than the stock one, which I think is 50 amps, so it will better handle the extra load from keeping the two lithium batteries charged. Thanks.
Greg, First of all thank you for posting. Your questions are valued as I see based on your long post - these things are important to you at this time. My answers may be curt - but Im giving them in a no BS fashion so dont take offence. You want to know from my perspective - so here it is. Running stock 1800 cc carbs on a 2 liter is a good start. But realize those carbs are set for an 1800cc motor. Look into opening up the jets and or venture. The stock Solex German carbs are a great start but can be maximized. In Europe they ran carbs till the end of Bay production in 79. Fuel Injection was an option - not the standard. Look into that to maximize your motors potential. Secondly - nope sorry dont recall what and who made my beefed up alternator. Look through the link below on the 77 build. I may of said where in there. Other wise search the Samba Classified for the answer and or product sold. That said - what all do you intend to stuff into a 74 camper that wasnt there in 1974? Your electrical load is more than just looking at what others did on the net. Your #vanlife additions are personal. You need to know the draw you are taking. You need to imagine what will it take for me to drive down the road and supply all the Amps needed to run my rig. Domotec fridge, bumpin stereo with AMP, Head lights that are brigher than than the sun, A flat screen going with phone plugs to keep the kids quiet, AC? And any other electrical draw at the time of van running going down the road. Let alone pulling some power at the dead of night to service a secondary battery. Full load balls out. My 75-80 Amp Alternator is there to supply all my stock needs, a clear bump up from my 30 amp stock alternator. I run H4's, not low amp LED's, with fog lights. And to cover my ass at night, in the cold a Eberspacher Gas Heater. So Im more than covered with the load full one everything at night - with wipers on. How does your personal #vanlive cozy home compare? Im thinking you want different and possibly more. Getting an 80 amp alt is easy. But you will then need to do the dance. Certain things need to be off so that the amp output is being utilized while driving. This is all separate of any solar charging and a secondary bat. Most #vanlifers need a 120-140 amp driver - that is not available. So you make due with what you have. Look through this and ask any questions you may have. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=419653&highlight=
@@notchboy Very much appreciate all the information. You are a wealth of knowledge. I am installing a new bumpin audio system. I installed the H4 headlights and plan to get a 12 volt fridge, a Dometic or comparable model. If possible, I'll like to get a coffee maker and microwave in the van, too. From what I've read, charging the two lithium batteries while running other accessories will require some planning so as not to fry my alternator. I'm hoping a combination of shore/generator power, solar power, and power from the alternator to keep the van and accessories running. Looks like a few online sellers offer a 90 amp alternator for the type 4 engines which will help but like you said I'll be doing the dance trying to balance my power usage. There's also my wife's request of AC, but that may be a stretch. I hadn't considered how to maximize the engine performance yet. I'll def look into addressing the jets and venturis. After a quick search online I found Aircooled.net which has what seems to be some good specifics about improving my carb setup as well as options for purchase but unfortunately they also seem to be on hiatus. Looks like the company has been going through a restructuring since Oct 2022. Bummer.
That would be difficult as the later versions with a spark plug remain on constantly. The single glow lug versions like the ones you describe have no way to fire back up after the fuel is starved. That's how the later ones work with thermostats. Thermostat cuts off the fuel, starves, cools down then fires back up when cool - repeats that cycle at 45 to 60 min intervals.
@Jason Weigel Thanks. I'm experimenting at the moment with short fuel cut offs. About 1,5-2 sec ON and 2,5-3 sec OFF. But results are not very stable. Btw it's a gas heater from Zaporoshets. It is a "simplefied" copy of very early Eberspächers.
@Jason Weigel Resistance in Ohms. 170 is about 95⁰C. 1,9 sec fuel is ON and 2,8 sec OFF. With constant fuel supply temperature goes to 105⁰C. Temp sensor in 10 cm from heater.
Hey thanks for this I’m trying to buy one but I’ll have to make one. Hard to get any accessories here in Australia. I need this for the heat in summer and I’m small so I really don’t need the R’r bed unfolded. Actually I’ve taken the R’r bed out as mine just had thick ply base with hinges. Unfortunately not seatbelt compliance. The kids grew up and now it’s all mine. So permanent single bed , cassette toilet. I’ve had my van for my life.
For sale? No - but check here www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?submit=yes&keywords=tent&type=text&stype=all&username=&yearfrom=&yearto=&pricefrom=&priceto=&model%5B%5D=§ion%5B%5D=&wanted=show&zip=&zipdist=0&state%5B%5D=&usaregion=&country%5B%5D=&sort=date&sort_order=DESC&submitButton=Search
@@adventureguy4119 Yes I know. The China one is so cheap that you can buy three of them before you reach the price point of a modern equivalent of Eberspacher - who also still makes these heaters. The China knock off is very popular. If I didn't have a classic 1977 Westfalia Volkswagen Bus to put this correct, restored accessory into - and wanted to run two gas tanks - one to drive gas, one for diesel - Id get a Crappy China knock off x3 for spares. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nice Jason. I want to build the cooker/sink combo into mine as well. But i need a good one to find. Not that easy. Do you have any good furniture parts by chance? Like doors etc. Cheers
No sorry brother. I do have stuff that I want to move on, but haven't pulled most of it out of storage. At the moment I have latch sets for the OG cabinets I want to sell.
@@notchboy I once tried to put the poles together in my living room. I surrendered. They are kind of bend a bit and the springs that u mentioned are really annoying. Do you have any kind of build up guide for that. Like.. With what to start etc. Guess there was a manual for that tent somewhere but.. I don't have it haha..
Jason thanks for making these videos. I have BN4 in a 1973 181 Thing. I did what you said and hit the fuel pump with a mallet and carburetor cleaner and now the pump works great. The heater will fire and heat up for a minute or so then the over heat fuse will blow and turn off the pump. Any idea what to check as to what it could be? Thanks
0:33 : Mr. Spock! 3:15 : Looks a lot like a civilian driving instructor in the Bundeswehr DKW Munga. Maybe the Private is about to get his license too? 4:58 : Still in business until today. I would provide a link, but YT really hates links, don’t they? Search for "schwarzkopf amberg opel", if You are interested. 15:21 : I like how they used two junkyard beauties with temporary license plates for the crash scene. 27:18 : Sponsored by Pepsi? Three shots of Pepsi delivery vans plus this one 😄. And the song at 18:39 is pure gold too. Catchy and educational at the same time 😁. Ahh, the past. Thank You for uploading this gem. I'll remove my other comments as soon as YT gives me the opportunity. What a bunch of... you know it 🙄.
I have a mashup of the two in a 181. bn4 with the early colour, separate spark and glow plugs but with the all in one metering pump from the late style you got there.
What an unbelievable car. Imagine finding something like this today. You'd be paying a hefty amount more, that's for sure. Mine will never be OG, but it's nice to see some of the specifics, and how they should look.
What material are you using for the replacement diaphragm? I was looking for some buna-n. Is that correct? If so what thickness are you using? Thanks Dwayne
@@notchboy not the worst thing to spend your time with... Atm i have problems with my gearshift bar.. Need to replace all the plastic bushings. Well.. I need to install them cause the pre-owner never did it. Very noisy at high speed.