A dedicated and passionate place for automotive customization. Knocking out some of the greatest modifications known to mankind. There is some RC action involved as well.
2:21 Im curious if theres a diffreence between how manufacturers make the gyro opperate as well as how sensitive the accelerometer is, It seem like the rear of the car would experience more acceleration as its the larger part of the circle and the front of the car would be a smaller circle leading to different levels of acceleration, The force stays static throught the circle i get that but dosnt the outside of the cirlce being larger cause it to accelerate faster to keep up with the inner circle? If thats the case could a less sensitive accelerometer be more useful closer to the rear of the vehicle and less at the front and vise versa for a more sensitive one? Would sensitivity not explain why some cheap drift gyros aren't as "functional" in the drift world and could it just be were positioning them to far forward that we assume their garbage 🤨🤔🧐
Great video as usual bro 💪🏾 Quick question, do you know if I can use my final form shark and do the conversion? I would be willing to give this a shot for sure.
Nice video! Your bump steer changes with steering because as you turn, your tie rod point on the knuckle moves up and down due to the combination of caster angle and steering axis inclination. The way to (nearly) eliminate it at all points of travel would be to set your steering bell cranks up so that they swing in essentially the same arc as the knuckles. Lean the physical pivot back to match the knuckle caster angle, and set the bell crank length somewhat close to what the knuckle tie rod offset (vs the upper vs lower ball joint axis). Of course ackerman would get in the way if everything were exactly identical, but I think this would be the best bet to minimize the effects of bump steer across the widest range of travel. This is not too dissimilar to what desert racing trucks do. Neat channel, keep it up!
I designed a custom carbon deck, and it was amazing. Started to post it out there and get some sales.. then Yokomo makes something identical a year later. I was furious and stopped selling because people were just on the Yokomo hype train and just kept comparing mine to theirs, NOT the other way around. Soon after, I have pretty much given up on RC drifting for over a year now.
My gyro randomly started to not hold a drift so i upgraded to a v4 and it still does the same..servo just turns back to the neutral position when i come off the power. Changed the servo.. same thing..
hi I had the same problem with my shark convention kit +RD2.0 The screw holes are correct the problem is that the rear suspension mount is different you need a 42mm pin or other suspension mounts. Y2-301AS should work. I think your pins will fall out while driving
I perceive they will too eventually. The perk is that I have a selection of chassis so its not a concern. I do wonder why that rear suspension mount is different though.
@392P yea. Only difference is the “status” level I’d say. Its like saying you got SRT vs normal 392. Inside the headlights just adds that extra plus to the build.
very well said i like your grip i bought m17 some kid had did it up red white blue best radio ever the rock rc raceway we a oval track south bend indiana
One of the most useful wrap channels I’ve found so far. You’re up there with wrap institute IMO. And it’s not even solely what you dedicate your channel to! Thank you so much🙏🏾
Nice. Noticed it while watching your gyro placement video. Was wondering how you did that. Does this work with just the connector in the receiver and then wire it to the magnets? Great idea.
It’s very possible to achieve 0 dump steer with the ddss I have the same front end, try getting rid of the spacers that were added at the knuckle and increase the servo angle with some spacers, the parallelism will stay more through the sweep of steering, buuuut a low profile servo might be needed due to the design of the ddss
@mattchew9583 ok. I’m gonna shoot a video doing exactly what you stated above. I think it’ll be cool to put some more angle on the servo to make the steering arc during the sweep
Broski im tellin u you if u dont use the screws that shit coming off on the parkway. I used gorilla industrial double sided tape and that shit ripped off after a year and a half
Hey, I am thinking on getting a Sp-03d for a new build, I am currently running a RS-ST. I know one is a coreless and the other one is brushless but other than that how they compare? Is one better than the other? Or it is just a color gimmick? I barely moved a car with the sp-03d but it seemed to be smoother and faster, but I didnt tried it on the track.
I'm curios as if you got this fixed yet. it seems to me that the concern relies on the rx/tx hook up your servo onto ch2 and see if you still get chatter
