Hello this might sound like a dumb question but what battery does the ezrun mini28 take? I got one in today and I bought a battery that’s jst-xh and it’s big. Thank you in advance!
This esc expects a 2S lipo. The choice of connector is up to you and the batteries you buy. A common connector used for this scale is JST-PH (3 pin, 2mm pitch). This is what I use in all my cars. Many batteries come with jst-ph but I've also seen small lipo packs with one jst-xh lead. jst-xh is conventionally used as the balance port.
Can you please send me the link for the step down board? I want to add a brushless setup to my own oh32x02. Thank you for all the help you have provided me with this car!
If you have a 3D printer, i found a fuel cell on thingiverse that allows you to fit larger batteries in the back and it lets you mount the tires so the rims are horizontal instead of vertical. It seems cool and if you have a 3D printer i think you should try it out (if your esc/motor combo can take a larger motor) also i found a motor/esc combo online for about 30$ with 11000kv which i want to get but idk if it would work with a servo.
The one I bought came with no power switch and a wrong parts tree for the rear axle housing (also they haven’t fixed the skid plate not fitting the roll cage) I can’t find their email anywhere either
@@sammybaka they won't respond to my emails but i found the parts tree online and i stole a switch from my little brothers old car that did not work anymore so when the parts tree comes the car should be good as new
Good luck! Those tiny wires and solder points can be quite challenging. Soldering is a super useful skill though so it's worth the efforts to practice.
Enjoy the trophy truck! If I must choose between oh32x02 vs mr-03, I would definitely go with the truck! It's much more interesting to build and run, and it can run in more places.
@@sammybaka do you have any recommendations for upgrades i should get (i already got the servo saver and aluminum alloy suspension) i am thinking about making a custom shell, getting the metal driveshaft a speaker for it (i bought the nitro hobbies one so idk if it comes with one i will have to wait for it to arrive to see), a led light bar and idk if there is anything else i should get or if i should get any of the stuff i just said so some recommendations would be very helpful.
@@26eckhat11 For the truck, I think the upgraded alloy shocks and dampers work really well. I think the gear differential is very functional too but I needed to do a lot of work to make it work reliably. Out of the box there was some gear mesh issues inside the diff. You can take a look at my full build video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6ns8wmGWbSA.html
What does it mean by condition in the charge settings. I seen it so many times yet I couldn't find any infomation about this, could you please help explain it to me. I'm actually also using this for 1/28 scale rc
It just means the criteria when the charger will stop charging. You can get it to stop at 4.18, 4.19, 4.2, 4.21, or 4.22v per cell. I set mine to 4.18v.
Hi Sammy! What was the total cost for all the little parts you needed to get this working properly? I am curious how it compares to the around $199 USD price tag for a new MA-020 AWD Dodge Challenger that's already 98mm and wide.
Based on amain prices: 98mm extension blocks ($8), bulkhead top cover ($10), bulkhead bottom cover ($10), and long alloy cvd (around $20). This adds up quite quickly so if you are looking for 98mm and/or wide setup, starting with the challenger is a good idea.
That is awesome. I'm happy to see alternatives in that truck. I love micros and really enjoy watching your channel because you have a unique way of presenting that I like!
I'm tempted to get it just to test it out, especially I have the rest of the truck wired up already for brushless. I couldn't find just the 1:5 gear box unfortunately, but it's still not too expensive to try.
I haven't put an ma-020 on an rcp track before so I'm not sure what tires would work well there. On RCP or carpet there will be a ton of traction and real chances of traction rolling; on that surface, I would go with harder compounds probably 30 or even 40 degree. If you are running on more slippery surfaces like at home, then you will want all the traction you can get, such as 20 degree radial.
Thanks! The buggy is more versatile and capable, while the trophy truck is more scaled and indoor friendly. If I had to pick one I would go with the buggy.
Unfortunately I could never remove the rims from the chassis. They don't use rwd or awd-style mounts though, so I don't consider them as reusable elsewhere, unfortunately.
That's awesome! I recently got a buggy and am having fun on my garage track. Have you experienced an issue with rolling tires off of the rim? From my first drive, it happened multiple times per session on my carpet track. With as much power as you have, I assume you would have the same issues unless your tires are glues (or something else). Thanks.
Thanks. Yeah on high traction and high demand conditions, you need to glue the tires just like the larger scale cars. It's common to use CA glue. I read it's possible to use tire tape (double-sided tape) to help secure the tires, but not as well as using CA glue.
Hello, you test with mr03 rwd, which is FHSS, yes? I don't understand why the multiprotocol module with the radiolink rc4gs is needed as the radio is advertised to natively support fhss.
fhss itself is not a protocol. most modern protocols from companies like futaba, sanwa, flysky, etc use different proprietary protocols, but they are all built on top of the fhss modulation method.
Hello. Recently I bought the Mini Z NSX with MR-03 (Narrow) RM chassis. May I know if this First Mini Z “Samber Truck body”could totally fit on it without any modification works on chassis, please? Thanks for sharing.
It drifts you just gotta drift it like stock rwd car You can do w rubber rear tire Touch throttles to feel rear suspension and steering to feel front Set gyro however you like Once you feel rear suspension well you can pulse .. understand that as soon as you off throttle it’s braking so time next pulse according to hang time
Is it possible to have the PN 2.5W chassis with 98mm base. I want to use the Audi R8 body. In this case what motor mount should i get? And compatible friction damper or rear shocks kit. Thanks!
Yes, and in fact the vast majority of PN2.5 builds I've seen are 98mm. You just need the right motor pod. If you are building from scratch, I would get the PN v5 lcg 98mm mount mount, plus the PN multi length damper set. This combo will work for an R8 body.
@@sammybaka I’m also thinking of upgrading my Kyosho MR03 chassis to PN2.5w chassis, will my MR-03 Route 246 MM Aluminum Motor Mount work? (Part#: KYOR246-1355 ) Since i already have these parts available? Basically just switching every parts i have from my MR03 over. Will this work?
Unfortunately, MR-03 doesn't have enough steering angle to become a rwd drift car. Check out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ekp8V855FFU.html where I tried and failed drifting one.
well i know this is an old thread but I understand but the lack of not finding out that there are parts to camber the steering knucle and tie rod kit and more plus u have the same chassis with the gyro I been trying to find and now I know what it looks like , but you can get the gyro unit 2.0 which I got by mistake because I needed the updated receiver unit 2.0 to match the gyro unit 2.0 I got by mistake and it said it on the box optional but with so much researching this only the MZW446 (color: Yellow-green-purple-purple) gyro will only work with the receiver unit 2.0 MZ414B which will not work with the original receiver, now the original receiver that come with the MR-03W-MM is the MZ414 so the color wires that this one on video has is the one that works with the original receiver which is (Blk-Red-White-Blue) now I know what it looks like ,now just because you want it tandem yay for you hey go buy one ,I just rather build one if there's a will there is a way but it is a good understanding video don't get me wrong , good part of this video I found what the gyro wire color looks like for the original receiver on the original chassis I have so I'm happy , so if Mods can help cool if Mods that you your self can do even better including if u have a 3D printer and a Dremel kit plus I even found some motor that could work a little better than the stock and they are the same size tamiya tuned motors so it can be a drifter for those that rather just buy one good for u either way its my opinion and I know it will make it even if its just slightly close lol 😅🤔
Kyosho has made the gyro line very confusing. Photos are down on this page, but it's useful for figuring out which gyro to get: rc.kyosho.com/en/gyro-matching
@@sammybaka well thanks but i tried but a few items are discontinue so I have to now search I don't mind doing on what I said in the message but thenew ver. 2.0 receiver $38 because I have gyro but like I said in ur video has the correct one when I look at the connector wire color so I found it but online has it for $79 down to $49 for the gyro that u have that will fit in mine also
I bought this charger but i have 19.5v 160watts adapter when i plug it input voltage shows 19.50v and cut off 11v should i increase the cutoff voltage from 11 to 19v??
When using a wall charger i don't think the cutoff setting is important. It's needed when using a 3+s lipo battery as input power to b6neo to protect that supplying lipo.
Watched your video. I like it alot. Got a few questions tho. I have 2 da3s that I drift but have a hard time fitting everything in it to run the mini z bodys so I run plastic modles car bodys. Is this one easy to set up for a mini z body or should I look at another one.
I'm not familiar with DA3S so i'm not sure its range of track width. I assume there are ways to adjust the length of the suspension arms. What mini-z bodies are you trying to fit? They come in quite a range of width as well.
@@rogerbahr9117 The kei truck is going to be challenging because it's very narrow (in mini-z terms, max of 0.5mm offset with narrow wheels front and rear with narrow front track width), plus its rear bed hangs pretty low. It's almost the most challenging Mini-Z body to fit. GLD is at this point an old design; it's good but really needs/benefits from some key option parts. Because of that, I'd consider it too expensive vs other options now.
Yup. I didn't put the body post holes correctly so it was offset towards one end. The body ran awesome but the build wasn't the best for sure. Recently I built up the protoform p63 body and that came out nicely.
@@sammybaka i just decided to go with that body shell ,everything came out really nice but then i also made the mistake of putting holes in the wrong place lol! i should have done holes before painting! love all your content by the way bro!
Thanks! Yup my lesson learned here is also to trim and ream while the body is still clear. I'm going to have a build video for the second lexan body that will lead to better results!
I know this is quite an old video but which servo is better in the gt24tr the wltoys 5g or the hs5055mg? As i notice you have used both at some point or another.
Thanks for sharing! ...The new track is open near me, and the mini z world is a blast! ...Have you tried the option house aluminum shocks? I really like mine using 3k diff fluid.
Lucky and enjoy! Option house like the kyosho alloy or the big bore shocks? I run the big bore shocks in the other buggy. They are fine but I also really like the stock plastic oil shocks.
@@sammybaka I was referring to the aluminum alloy shocks. They're really smooth, and I like the silver look....BTW, my first race in 12 years was last night...mid-pack finish, but I had an absolute blast!....Keep the great vids coming!
Great video but no mention of what tires your running front and rear? This is 90% of your traction rolling fix. PN medium and front im assuming but what in the rear? Thanks!
That's indeed an oversight. For the RCP track I run on, I use 11mm marka 5 slick for the rear, glued to the rims. Front is the standard PN KS med slick, also glued to the rims and CA-glued on the side walls.
This is great! It's a good looking buggy and seems more than capable in those conditions! I started thinking about getting a Mini-Z buggy for next winter, purely indoor running... Looks like we can have just as much fun on smaller scale also, he he!
Yeah it can handle itself quite well! I'd still be careful with conditions that can throw sand and small rocks into the back of the drive shaft but I think with the chassis mod and standard servo, it can handle outdoor more easily.
