Biggest load of bullshit I've ever heard so far regarding the K series. Absolutely zero possibility of this setup making 250whp on a traditional dynojet. I've built 4 of these engines so far, even with cams and e85 you'd still barely touch 250whp
Hey bud, I wanted to know if when you took off the OLM if you you broke off the glass or if you took it off as one piece of glass and where your got the tool your thought was very useful from in the replacement?
Thank you for your knowledge i bought a k20z1 for del sol selling my B18C it has skunk2 pro cams, hondata, injector, bigger fuel pump, full greddy exhaust system, selling because it only made 199hp on dyno. I've been driving it for 11 years without a rebuild, & its time to move on to k series 😊
Interesting to see, thank you. My last two vehicles were manual, but I've never had as much hp as my current vehicle. When I punch it, my back end essentially just slides to the left. Best way to avoid wrecks is just not drag, but if I do, then I want to keep control and anyone around safe. I don't usually race because it's low miles for the year, and I want to take care of it - I usually decline races because of this, and I'm inexperienced with the level of power.
If your rear end is swaying to either side then your car is rear wheel drive. The rsx is front wheel drive so all you'll get is torque steer. Put it'll always pull in a straight line. Hence why fwd cars are a lot safer than rwd even at high hp. If you're an inexperienced I wouldn't recommend launching hard if you've got a noticeable power. I'd Learn the car first. When your on a back road by yourself and you come to a stop sign just be careful when you let it rip. What kind of car is it ?
@@handledeeznutterbutters Well it's more power than I'm use to. It's a 2014 Mustang GT, yeah, rwd. Miles are low for the year so I don't really race it often, but the few times I have, I noticed the back end slide a bit so I want to avoid racing entirely until I get it down. Don't want anyone or me getting hurt
@@handledeeznutterbutters hahaha yeah, I figured someone would say something when hearing it's a Mustang. Just want to be safe and not a typical Mustang guy lol
Hey man love how you actually approach this stuff with data base proof and not just some bro talk, I have gone through three sets of inner tie rods from k tuned also have there inverted ends, also lowered with maybe a finger gap in height. I’m kinda defeated at this point I’m not super slammed with crazy camber, I just want a sporty type rsx meant really for auto cross and once in a while track use. Soo before I order a new set of tie rods I’m thinking of getting the hard race Inner Outer Tie rod set, SHG rack slider Then raising the car all around 1 inch I also have RCA ball joints. Am I heading in the right direction, do you think non inverted is the best option as well
I was thinking the same thing, I was about to lower my car more and then figured out I need the adjustable tie rods and did some research and found out hardrace is the way to go. I heard you are getting a steering rack slider but what does that exactly do because I’m not sure if I should get one aswell
Interesting that you chose the HP Plus. Those pads have the unique characteristics of 1.) extremely high initial bite which makes them difficult to modulate the amount of weight transfer 2.) the squeal, which also includes a grinding noise as you come to a full stop 3.) rotor wear rates are high I really want to swap them for a different pad that softens those characteristics.
Hey man I just wanted to say I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us! I have a question? How did you learn what you know? Besides hands on experience. I’m getting into engines and car modifications and I’m trying to get as much wisdom as I can from reading and stuff. Did you go to school or just working at a shop?
New to the rsx chassis, put coilovers on and trying to get everything now to actually allow it to get aligned lol got extended tie rod ends and their to long i guess ill have to lower it a little more as the stocks where only allowing two threads
Why did you switch to K-tuned shifter cables? Also did you get the original batch? Or the updated ones? I’m trying to figure out if I should keep my OEM shifter cables (can’t tell if they’re stretched or not).
If you don't want to destroy your front axle and brake pads, you can use the handbrake gently instead here. Don't yank it like you're drifting, push the latch down and gently pull it up as you accelerate and turn. On an FF this can really torque you around the corner.
Hey I noticed you have DC5R LCA but a lot of people say you need the matching knuckles brakes etc to make them work. It seems you don’t have those things. Would extended ball joints and camber bolts allow me to use them on my TEIN basic Coilovers or would I need camber plates (a local has the DC5R arms for a reasonable price)
Thanks for sharing this. I'm looking for a motor to daily my MR2 and researching what's out there. Everyone is so attracted by the big and shiny. Octane rating is a good way to increase running costs. I did a decade with an RX-7 for a DD so I've had my fun of inefficient money burners. I think 87 octane is a big pro for a DD.
Would you recommend to replace the Synchro's when you had the Transmission apart. I have an 04 SiR Ep3 with Stock K20A3, my Synchro's are done. I have heard that this is a weakness in the 5MT. If I take it apart to replace the Synchro's, is there any other parts you would recommend to replace while it is out of the car? Thanks
I have a question, at 8:45 of the video, you mention you didn’t have to take out the axle nut and just removed the lower strut bolts, but later in the video I see the rotor and hun totally removed. Is that just one side or both side removed?
Is it possible to directly swap a k20a2 block with a k20a3 head and use a stock ecu? (without kpro or tune) I want to put a new motor in my ep3 but don’t have the funds to buy a kpro and get it tuned
