This channel is going to be about tech related items diagnosis and repairs. Will also be going into more advance videos in the future such as microsoldering repairs, software related issues, data recovery, frp resets and glass only repairs. Will also later on as channel grows get into more teardowns and ETC.
Nice video your really knowledgeable. So I have a question. I have the Sylvania ssd803 and the DVD side won't eject or basically even power up there's no display on the unit. But the vcr works what could that be? What am I looking for because I'm sure I have all the stuff to fix it.
This place is a joke. Went the other day since I was driving by and I couldn't believe what I saw. Used Golf shirts with local company logos for $35-$50, basically any used polo was $10 (even wal-mart brands), used t shirts $15-$25, used shorts $20-$30, jeans $25-$100 and I could go on for days. There was a time this place was packed to the gills on sale days but it's a ghost town these days.
Thanks for posting this video, I want to understand how the roller assembly is attached to the metallic moving arm shown at 5:08 min in you video, I am trying to put back the guide roller assembly on my camcorder, the roller assembly has a plastic pin that I think goes into that hole at end of the metallic moving arm, is there a clip that holds the roller assembly to the arm?
Saludos amigo, excelente video. Tengo uno 710a y me gustaría cambiar a 720p. En el video usted indica que hay que retirar r213 y r207 pero no entendi bien que hay que hacer con r204 y r205. Tambien hay que retirar esas resistencias????
I picked up the Vevor 4-channel version of this scope for dirt cheap (basically has the Owon SDS1104 control panel which is a little different from the Hanmatek, but the same scope otherwise) - happened to stumble across a heavy Amazon discount offer and coupon on top of it. 78 bucks. Couldn't pass it up for that price, and glad I didn't. The offer was gone the next day and the price was right back up to $199.
I bought the 720p and 730a for automotive purposes and they work flawlessly fast and accurate despite being from the 90s take em over the chinese ones.
I did the same thing on my 2235A, replaced the Rifas and the Schaffner line filter. The caps all seemed good. Runs like a charm but good thing I replaced the rifas because they already had hairline cracks.
Just to clarify the title of the video -- this scope is the TDS5034B not TDS5034. The non-B version has a totally different motherboard and I don't think it supports SATA at all.
Yes you are correct even though some non-B uses the socket 478 which did have sata as well. They used a few different main boards on theses depending on year. Even with same model.
The Revox reel to reel are built to be serviced so much easier and quite easy to get to boards and do adjustments as needed, just like the more professional studer reel to reel decks. My all favorite are the Revox decks.
The motherboard bios is custom to work with the oscilloscope board, same as the drivers. People have successfully managed to upgrade board but was straight forward and highest OS that would work was XP, with custom drivers. I ended up selling the oscilloscope and going with a Rigol dho4804 which is better preforming as far as noise and overall performance, as deal with switch mode supplies and restoring audio gear and needed something to replace my analog and digital oscilloscope for more bench space and does the job great.
Wish you did a bit more showing and less telling. Have this exact unit that I'm trying to clean and fix up, but I really would have like to see you showing how you did it.
@@akashv5622 it is pretty much a resistor that in the BNC terminator adapter that matches the impedance of the signal generator output which is 50 ohms.
I feel your pain. I have a 2014 Nissan Murano with the front end construction that's almost the same. Whoever designed this thing should have been made to change about 10 of these. Who designs a vehicle to have the parts so embedded that you have to take half the front end of the vehicle off to replace it is crazy. I was able to do it without taking the front bumper off but it was a real pain in the Ars! Whoever assembled my Murano put the lower Radiator clamps with the tops pointed up. So I had to remove the battery, the PCM, the TCM and the whole battery tray assembly just to get to those clamps. When I put it back in I put the hose clamps down so I wouldn't have to do that again. Any ways glad you got it done I truly feel your pain! My CVT cost me right $4,200.00 to have someone do it for me. I had to change my CVT at 105K miles because I was an "idiot" and never did the REQUIRED 30K mile CVT services. It's a must service you can not skip or the metal belt shavings will tear up the transmission. I have over 155K, miles on it now. I kept the care because I have a bad back and knees and my wife too, plus it's the most comfortable over the road car I've ever driven. Also it has the older style head rests and when I put the seat up straight to support my back the headrests don't try and push my chin into my chest. I love my Murano for traveling, plenty of room in the back for cargo and it's really comfortable. You still have a nice car and it still looks good on the paint etc. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Yep I always stated whoever designs half these cars sure be forced to work on them as punishment. A BMW master technician and wonder what the engineers designing the car were thinking? The worst was VW I hated those as usually required engine removal, then don’t get me started with cam wear and bad main rear seals on low mileage of those. Now the Nissan are not as bad as some state. They actually pretty reliable if you change the CVT transmission fluid with the OEM Nissan fluid and filter every 30k. Yes the belt wear in and leave excessive shavings if not change every 30k and seen a few that grenade itself. As the metal spacers pops out and metal belt fall to pieces destroying and even putting a hole in the transmission housing. I rebuilt a few over the years. If you do required 30k maintenance they can last over 285k miles. I know someone still have the original CVT transmission and still going strong. The Nissan actually nice on the road and pretty comfortable ride. I going to use the Nissan as my daily especially during winter months and keep the BMW as a weekend driver.
@@thetechgenie7374 Yeah I agree 100% with all of that. My only problem with my 2014 Murano CVT is it doesn't like the cold. It likes to have a high rev, not shifting belt movement, until it warms up, then it works normally. Any ideas on that problem?
@@thetechgenie7374 I was thinking maybe the tolerances were to tight on the pulley that moves inside on those pins. Possibly a programming issue, if it's designed to compensate for temperature. I know the Ford 4R100 has that issue, and they put in a bypass valve just for that. Anyways thanks for the reply bud. Hey any chance you have a Tek 24XX series calibration with the TM plug in series modules?
@@keithnoneyaThey do have to be programmed using dealer software and bidirectional scanner, but typically they also have adaptive learning mode as well for the first 150 miles to 1k miles after programmed or initialize after fluid changed. Typically when it comes to not shifting correctly or at all unless high idle and when cold but completely normal when warm is leaning towards a valve body issue due to lack of pressure some where, typically a stuck solenoid maybe not opening or closing correctly as fluid gets thicker when cold and flow less smoothly.
Was going to go with the cheaper 900 series but I do play with RF and work on transceivers and switch mode supplies and good noise performance and having separate 50 ohm amplifier path instead of just an internal resistor is nice. Plus the extra bandwidth is a plus. Also need active and differential probes, so when with this model as only series that you can buy and use those probes with. Plus was looking to replace need to have an analog scope for audio equipment I work on and this one definitely gets the job done. Been playing around with it and definitely preform way better then early DSO’s didn’t like and see even distortion that my analog scope doesn’t. I am impressive with it so far. Definitely a good replacement for those of us that are old school and hate aliasing and need scope to trigger on complex signals. This one does it with ease. Plus doing complex math is great as this scope faster then what I used back in the day with early DSO’s. Yes expensive but was worth the price. Most I just recommend the 800, or 900 series as more then enough for most and still 12 bit.
@@thetechgenie7374 hi mate I know your yeasion bike is similar to my yolin dual motor bike can you do me a video about connecting the controllers together I had issues now the bike is all over the place with connecting everything back together where the throttle not working and alarm signals lights are not working. The brake light is constantly on also
Last month I just got a Jvc Hi-fi Vcr/DVD Combo, but it's making a weird noise when i'm watching a movie on DVD and it slows down whenever I fast forward. How do I fix It?
Hi, i'm having a similar problem with almost the same model. does the transport have a part number? it looks exactly like mine. I'm trying to find out whats wrong with mine or figure out if buying a replacement is viable. It was my dad's camera and i'd like it to run again.
I was worried myself but needed more range than my 36v 13ah had so built a pair on 36v 25ah packs but only one of the 2 new batteries has a Bluetooth bms on it , and after charge balancing all 3 I put them all together in a Parallel arrangement, it works fine and I'm able to actually see the discharge and in my case the last battery in this Arrangement will take on a small charge when load is off like coasting or stop at intersection and I can see as much as 1 amp flow back in to last battery for a few seconds then taper off as there all balancing themselves this isn't a Problem and most likely due to inter wiring an connections . Now I added a 4 amp charger to this system and charge the main battery and all 3 get charged at the same time and to make it faster 1 can an do put the old 2 amp charger on last battery to give all 3 batteries a total of 6 amps , this works out just fine and gives me a 65 mile range . I'm disabled so can't walk enough to be of much good and depend on my bike for exercise even though I probably can't peddle it more than 10 feet without battery Assist