This is for woodturners new or experienced. In these videos I share lessons I have learned and teach in our woodturning school. As a teacher I have learned to keep the lessons (the videos) in order from the basics to more and more advanced. I intend to continue to add additional tool and technique videos. Please let me know in the comments what you wish to know more about or see other video perspective on.
For more turning information always check out my web site: www.jlrodgers.org
Lovely step stool visible in the intro. Do you have a video on it? I would love to see some pictures. Looks much like a shaker version but seems to have a different construction which I can't make out from the video. Great video.
I wish I could. The background is a green screen photo from the Old Sturbridge Woodshop, an historical location. You could check them out directly to find more information. Sorry, Jim R
Nice video. Can you publish a list of tools you use in this series of miniature turning? Is it possible to get them in Europe ? Thanks in advance. Erik (beginning turner from Belgium)
You sir are a “Teacher”. When I am learning techniques that I thought already knew and I find myself in a continuous AHA mode I know I’m in the presence of a great teacher. Thanks Jim.
Nice presentation, I have made dizzy bowls by making the rings out of 1" boards cutting the rings on a scroll saw then made a jig for my bandsaw and use hot glue to fasten the rings to the jig and slicing each ring 3 to 4 times to get the thin rings needed. This save a lot of time.
Thanks for stopping by Charlie's woodcarving class this past spring. Four of us signed up to take the summer woodturning 101 class. Fun stuff. These videos are very helpful. Thank you for making them.
Unfortunatly, no, I don't have one for sale. I make all my fixtures for personal use from acrylic: it's stable. easy to cut, drill, and glue (CA glue). The angle for this "wedgie sled" is set with a 30-60-90 degree office supply triangle.
Hello, I really like your videos, I have learned a lot from them, unfortunately I haven't worked with the lathe for a couple of years due to a heart attack I had and I left it for a while. After that I have been trying to do it again, but the only thing I completely forgot is how to use the Digital Caliper to make the exact cuts to size, I have searched all over RU-vid to see if there is a related video on how to make the exact cuts. san stop for segments, but even if I don't exist, I would greatly appreciate your help if you know of any tutorial that explains it in detail, to be able to make the cuts perfectly again since my cuts are not square. I will be very grateful, your friend and follower Enrique
In order to make the most accurate cuts a sled like the in the vidoe is very useful. Check out the web site SEGEASY.COM for the basic plans for an adjustable version. This form of sleds are referred to as "Wedgie sleds" and you and search that also. Mine was made in acrylic using a 30-60-90 triangle from the office supply store to set the perfect 30 degree included angle.
When pressing the halves together for shaping it is not necessary that the segments be vertically aligned. It IS important the upper & lower haves be horizontally in the same rotational plane for good clamping and later gluing. I didn't really bother with the rotational alignments.
Very Informative video Jim. Do you by chance have a more detailed video on making the Band Clamp chuck or maybe a writeup describing it? This is exactly the chuck I think I'm going to need for some offset eccentric scoops I would like to attempt......thanks
Hi there, great work as usual. Can you tell me where you bought that large tailstock cone from. Did you make it or perhaps have it made for you. It looks like metal from your video.
The anodised aluminum cones are not on themarket any more however there is a set of come that ARE available from advancedlathetools.com/cone-centers-2/ There ar lighter and earier to use also.
@@JimRodgersWoodturner Many thanks for your reply. I have taken a look at that site link, the sizes quoted are a little confusing. I live in the UK so I would imagine it would cost a fortune in transport. I will enquire. I am also looking for large blanks of HDPE to see if it’s more economical to turn them myself. I have no idea if the HDPE blocks are available in grades of quality and hardness. Have you any idea, have you worked with it before ? My initial impression is that it’s very expensive material to buy in blocks or round blanks. I have only looked at a couple of sites so far. Just out of interest, is it just the one size cone you use or do you have sever sizes ? Which size do you find most useful. The example in your video looks quite large. Thanks again, all the best, Ricky
@@RICKYDENNIS49 Ricky, HDPE in 100mm diameter and cut in a 100mm length can be purchased for about £40 including VAT at: www.theplasticshop.co.uk/polyethylene-rod-hdpe-100mm-110mm-120mm-125mm-130mm-140mm-150mm-160mm-180mm-diameter.html. I would cut it carefully with very sharp tools as it is flexible and will "catch" on the tool easily.
I didn’t see how you finished the inside!! I have done open segmented vessels! Very difficult to do the inside if you glue everything together and try to do the inside! I finish the inside in stages, because it will blowup on you if you don’t!!
At about 23:45 I mention that I will "dunk" this small project into a bowl of Miniwax Wipeon Poly. A paper towel will wipe up any drips or spills. Larger vessels I use a pair of forceps and a small sponge to coat the interior surfaces and a pipe cleaner dunked in finish to coat the open edges.
@@elliottsimkins74 I usually finish turning the interior with a negative rake scraper. The bigger one that fit the opening is better because there is less vibrations.
Great work Jim. I would love to see how you made your wedgie sled. What material are you using and how did you set your angles so they are dead on? Thanks Jim!
I built the sled with a 30-60-90 triangle from the office supply store to get the proper angle. The materials is acrylic from a local supplier (Tap Plastics). One fence is glued in place with CA glue and the second aligned to it and then CA'd. There is sand paper on each face of the sled to prevent slippage of the stock.
Question on the veneer, you made sure your veneer between the segments was facing so you don't have any end grain showing, but then when you attached the piece between the rings it will have end grain. Why make sure on the segments, but not between the rings?
Good point. To assure side grain view between the rings, I would have to make a segmented ring of veneers - tough task! For my smaller vessel it seems too much effort. Between the segments I want all the veneers to face the same direction for consistency - might as wellmake them side grain facing.
Hard to say, they are thinner, may not be High Speed Steel (e. g., carbon steel), and not stiff enough to meet the challenge. However, try it - you it works for you great!
