I have utilized a different way for adding a floating foot to an open segment vessel. Here is an overview of the technique. (And also making the vessel!)
Always excited when you publish a new video. I learn from every one. Great way to add a floating foot, your glue jig is masterful, and your narration is clear and inspiring. Thank you as always and stay well.
Hi, Jim. I've enjoyed watching your RU-vid channel and following your techniques since meeting you last Fall at the 7th Segmenting Symposium in Chicago. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
another great video. my last few bowls have been open segs and I am really enjoying making them. I am very interested on how you made the xcel sheet you use, perhaps a future video on how to do that. Not very experienced using xcel
WoodturnerPro provides a link to exporting their cut list to Excel as a CSV file which Excel can then open. I just manipulate the columns and font size to make the data more readable in the shop.
Jim, just starting to delve into open segment bowls, and your variation of a percentage gap for calculating segment lengths I understand and have calculated out. (Helps to have a wife who is a math major). I am struggling to understand this version where you are using a 3 degree gap. For a 24 segment ring which yields 7.5 degrees, you set your cut angle and sled at 5.5 degrees. I can't make that math work out. Shouldn't it be 6 degrees? Thanks much! Great instructional videos.
You are correct. I either used a 4 degree separation, mis-represented the cut angle in the text of the video, or actually cut the miter angle at 5.5 degrees rather than 6 degrees. YOu didn't have a math problem, I did! I hindsight I can't unravel what happened; the vessel came out OK!
Thank you for the video, Just got your book yesterday, lot of good stuff in it. Been doing a few segmented bowls and am ready to do an open one. Thinking of starting out using a Seg-Easy plate, A lot to choose from, Do you have an opinion of which amount of segs looks best. The 24 you did looks great and may get that. Your videos are the best! Thanks
12 or 24 number of segments. However it depends on what looks best and the least "clunky." Smaller vessels I use 12 segments AND 12 spacers which look like 24 segments when completed.
I've been turning for a few years now and have done a number of segmented projects but never an open segment one. Been nervous about trying it. But I'm just completing the necessary jigs ( only the cutting sled left to do ) and am looking forward to my first effort. I've found your videos very helpful in getting my head around the necessary steps and procedures. My first effort will likely be a one wood design just to get the process figured out. Then it's on to some patterns. Is there an easy way to design a pattern without buying the software packages? I ask mostly because I'm cheap and I'm not entirely sure how many of these things I'll do. Thanks for your videos and all the good information you provide.
Yes to no software; but.... you still need a drawing of the shape with a wall thickness included. To calculate the segment edge lengths the easiest way is to use my Segment Edge Calculation sheet. It contains all the info for different diameters and number of segments. Download it from from my website: www.jlrodgers.com
Thanks for your reply Jim but I was not clear in the way I phrased my question. That's on me. A single species wood bowl is easy. I already got the segment edge length calculation sheets. Actually from you and also from Earl's small segment shop. When I say easy I mean easy to figure out the plan. We'll see about the assembly and turning. What I meant to ask was about designing the patterns of more complex bowls like the flower patterns that Tom Lohman does. Not going to get that fancy but something more than plain. Is there a way to design that style of thing without the software? @@JimRodgersWoodturner
The software does make designing and layout of a design easier. However, you could download and print graph paper of the right number of squares for your segmented ring, and mark it with your design. We do that for basket illusion patterns by necessity but it will also aid with segmented designs also.
Thanks again. Finished turning my first open project today. A trumpet shape bowl with a lid. All in maple. Learn the process first before I try anything tricky with patterns. It's smallish, about 8" x 4", 7 rows of 24 at 1/4" thick and a top row of 24 at 1/2" thick on a 1/2" thick base. The turning went easier that I expected. No real issues as long as I was making light cuts which can be a bit of an issue for me. But I haven't put any finish on yet. I see in this video that you use wipe on poly. After the application do you go over the project with a bunch of Q-tips to ream out the holes of excess finish? Or some other way to avoid too much build up? I was thinking of using Watco teak oil in the natural colour and then use the Q-tips but I'm not sure what's best. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.@@JimRodgersWoodturner
I didn’t see how you finished the inside!! I have done open segmented vessels! Very difficult to do the inside if you glue everything together and try to do the inside! I finish the inside in stages, because it will blowup on you if you don’t!!
At about 23:45 I mention that I will "dunk" this small project into a bowl of Miniwax Wipeon Poly. A paper towel will wipe up any drips or spills. Larger vessels I use a pair of forceps and a small sponge to coat the interior surfaces and a pipe cleaner dunked in finish to coat the open edges.
@@elliottsimkins74 I usually finish turning the interior with a negative rake scraper. The bigger one that fit the opening is better because there is less vibrations.
