Thanks for the video. A guy told me a few years ago; if you're removing rusted bolts, and you're not concerned with saving the bolt, just turn the bolt head to tighten it, and it will many times break easier, than trying to hold both the nut, and the the bolt head. 😃
On my '99 Silverado, It was caused by a bad connection with a little wire plugged in near the ignition switch. Clean the contact (or just unplug it and plug it back in a few times) and it will work fine. Or did on mine at least
Ijust drill a hole in the top cover in the general area of where the pin needs to be depressed, I kind of know where, you can tell from this video. But that is for chaning just the key and cylinder, to change the switch, top cover has to come off,but the cylinder holds it from coming off, so removing that, or the trim ring allows cover to come off.
Ive been through the relearn on my '98 Sierra dozens of times. It started after an attempted theft. It appears yours has been through a theft attempt? Finally, I replaced the ignition switch/wiring harness to permanently solve the problem. Part number 26061331 BTW where you think the last owner soldered in a resistor, it comes that way from the factory.
Just my opinion but the previous owner tried the same fix you were about to attempt thinking that it would solve the issue permanently, it failed. Proving that it's not a permanent solution and you have the collum opened up I think replacing the failed part is the best option and move on from this.
Pretty much the exact same story for me too but I listened to the wrong know-it-all and put a direct positive line to the s terminal on the solenoid. Zero power anywhere is where I'm at. Mine's a 92 regular cab manual trans. I don't understand - my old starter was wired with a direct, 2 g wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter motor as well as a 10 gauge another terminal for the solenoid. No idea how the heck my fusible links get power because I cannot find 10 gauge wire running from the positive battery terminal to that initial fusible link for your hood light. I have no power no nothing right now after I shorted my battery.
Thanks for your vid, got my few brain cells rubbing together enough to pick up a multi-meter and find the gremlin. Spoiler alert: did you know water can get INSIDE a wire and corrode away the core?
Interesting work! As for your shifter. There are to ball baring units on each side of the transmission housing. Sometimes probably due to moisture, the ball bearings can slowly rust in place. You can remove the ball bearings’ get rid of the moisture and squirt some bearing grease into the two holes and the ball bearing were move easily and you shifting to your four gears should be easy. Good luck.
Best thing you can do is to borrow or buy a T book because you don't want to get it put back together and find out it's not right. As you are finding out the T is not like other cars. Good Luck lots of good info on the MTFCA Forum
That OF is the worst of all those carbs you have there. I'll send you some $$$ for the shipping so you can get rid of it.. Ha ha If your patient and careful ou will hae one of the best of all carbs sold for the T's!!
The two things that don't seem to survive are the radiator and the Coil box. That's about $1500 alone. It's cheaper by far to buy a working Model T than restore one as I can tell you from my own experience. It's going to take $10 k to do a really good job but you find a lot . Nothing like automotive archaeology to keep the mind active - and putting a T back on the road is almost like saving a life. Good luck with this project -
