I'm a freelance designer and this channel is an extension of my personal exploration through various design fields and life as a designer.
I have many passions in and around design and you can expect to see some of the following featured on this channel:
🔸 Printmaking techniques (screenprinting, intaglio, relief) 🔸 Design process 🔸 Analogue photography 🔸 3D printing and design 🔸 CNC 🔸 Digital design 🔸 UX & UI 🔸 Tech reviews 🔸 Film making 🔸 Freelancing 🔸 vlogs and anything else that takes my fancy.
For collaboration opportunities/sponsorships - hi@thisdesignedthat.com
To the OP: Definitely take out the plastic cap, I’ll explain; To fix the loose click after you remove the plastic tip insert, while simultaneously fixing the issue with tip of the refill sticking out even when retracted, what you need to do is simply stretch out the stock spring, not too much, just a little, and that will give the clicker some really nice feedback for a great feeling click AND it will keep the refill in place when retracted. Cheers!
Well, why not, but this seems over-complicated to my engineer’s eye. Personally, I would just use inserts into the MFT table, then secure the vice with DIN912 bolts and a drill. It’s the simplest approach in my humble opinion: no prototyping, no printed parts, just standard hardware. On the other hand, if you really want to print something, you could use 20mm expanding rubber (TPU) spacers with bicycle cam clamps. You probably won’t find a quicker or more compact system.
yes there are definitely easier ways to do this but i wanted to learn more about gears so opted for the planetary gear approach. Initially I was thinking of using some sort of cam, i think that would have been a simpler approach
Thank you for the nice video. It helped me a lot. You also made a great suggestion regarding the cutting speed with the slider; that's a really good idea. Hopefully, they will integrate that in the future.
Thank you for this interesting ballhead review and comments. Perhaps 3 Legged Thing has addressed these issues by now as I have the Leo 2.0 tripod with this ballhead on order., for use as a travel tripod. I was most impressed with the 66lb. load capacity of this tripod. Also, since I use an Arca-Swiss (Kirk) L-bracket on my camera I never need the QR plate that comes with most tripods. :-)
Still going great, i do get oozing at the hotend heatup but ive just been lazy to change my gcode at print end to retract a bit to compensate this oozing at the next project start heatup cycle.
Great video and press design. Are you willing to provide or sell your build plans for this press? The link for your drum fabricator is not working. Do you have specs for the drum as well?
Just upgraded my 7 year old i3mega to marlin with Bltouch and new tmc2209 drivers. That’s a huge difference compared to stock. This looks nice too but again a lot of tinkering. You can swap boards to 32 bit or add Klipper to give this a second life, but I am tempted to buy a bambulab instead which will give me extra free time, which is the most valuable thing there is😅
Hi John, im in the exact same position as you, as of this week. I think the extruder motor port has died on my i3 mega. I could swap in a new board and tinker with it but at the moment im just looking for something that can print quickly and efficiently without it being a DIY project because i have so many projects on the go. From looking online the Bambu seems like the best plug and play printer at the moment and most of the reviews are very positive. I know @Clough42 has the bambu and has positive things to say about it and I trust his word more than most youtubers.
I saw Epson sc P6000 it’s cheap but the problem is I don’t know if it’s printing film positive transparency or not so how do I know if any printer do print film positive transparency for screen printing?
This is NOT an all metal. All 701s have plastic threads on both the tip and the end. There is a plastic sleeve inside the main body. That sleeve is what the tip and click mechanism thread to. The metal body is not threaded.
Hello, thanks for addressing the confusion over the different types of carrageenan. In the different marbling tutorials I watched, there was no mention that there were different varieties of carrageenan available. I bought the Iota, for the price point. I had no luck with it whatsoever! It was super thin, and the paint just sank. It was so frustrating!! Giving up with the Iota, I ordered some Kappa. But the consistency wasn’t right either. The paint floated but the colour cells were jagged and undefined. After watching your video, I decided to get some Lambda, as you suggested. But before I did, I thought I’d try following the instructions on the Iota package, which says to cook the liquid you wish to thicken. I put 1 litre water in a saucepan and sprinkled in 7 grams of Iota carrageenan. I brought it to a boil on medium high heat. The result was a size mixture of perfect consistency. I’m now using Iota carrageenan exclusively, and getting great results.
Hello Mate, thank you very much for that great tutorial. However, i was wondering if there was any way to coat the interior with something fireproof as sometimes (rarely), lasers could start flames and a wooden enclosure would only make it worse.
You could line the inside with fire resistant plasterboard. To slow down the spread of fire. There are also fire extinguisher add-ons from Xtool that you can add to any enclosure which seems to be a great alternative
Great review. I unfortunately own it and can confirm all of the downsides mentioned :/ More than anything, I just wanted it to align correctly, but I've still yet to get one perfect so I'm finding myself not using it at all; huge letdown.
Hey man do you know where I could possibly find the blueprints for this 6x7 back ? Mines got a spring that was moving around inside after a fall and I can’t manage to find where it should be. Thx
I mean its just a desktop CNC router that is aimed at the hobby market and a basic drill press. This is definitely aimed at a hobby maker imo. Thanks for watching!
Never would have guessed a comment on Reddit would have lead me to a professional tutorial. Really awesome, thank you for commenting and thank you double for linking me to this. It was really awesome to see the machine and the process. I like that sled that helps with batching, the F1 is really looking special. Thoughts on the S1? 🤔
You're very welcome! Im glad you found it so helpful! S1 is performing great so far. First time im trying out a 40W machine, im liking the extra power!
Can't ever underestimate proper unboxing experiences. It sucks getting stuff naked in a plastic bag. Carding the merch is a nice refutation of plastic bag sadness.
I swear by the spiral V Varve bits, usuall 0.25 mm but often that is used after roughing out. For Copper and Aluminium I also use Metholated Spirts for a lube. The sudden heat change causes the ship to eject from the bits and not gum up as badly especially in aluminium. the rapid evaporation also helps cool things but dont forget that Meths is also flamable so no smoking.
1 or 2 flute end mills are fine for aluminum. Coating is important though! You want TiSiN, TiCN, ZrN or uncoated endmills. You DON'T want an end mill with any coating containing Al (aluminum) as that will increase the tendency for chip welding to the milling bit.
This process is a disaster, every time I have to do it I result with a blister somewhere in a finger you never thought it vould be. This things should cost 5 dollars complete so you replace it and keep going.
Very helpful. My interest is clock dials (brass) where the alloy matters. I think that means engraving, rather than relief carving, but breakage has still been a problem. Brass 260 isn't ideal, but 360 isn't available in sheets. Now trying 1/16" end mills followed by V-tips to clean up edges. Can you comment on pass depths, RPM and surface speeds?
