@@WarAnWaar You have to be using the same version of L-Connect to see these things. But you could try using the newest version and see if that fixes it as well.
hay bro, have you found any permanent fix for this.? As i am also facing the same problem even after following all the steps shown in this video but my problem still exist.
hay bro, have you found any permanent fix for this.? As i am also facing the same problem even after following all the steps shown in this video but my problem still exist.
@@faaziexperts1344 not really. Seems like the cable inside moves around or something happens. You might get a few months or several months of reprieve, but it seems like the problem just always comes back. Better than nothing.
I have the exact same specs PC. I need a beast computer overclocked for VR in msfs2020, DCS, and IL2 Great battles. I have a flight sim rig and a driving rig. All driving and flying sims, all steam games, all oculus games etc have run great pushing this computer to its limits. And then one day installed Hogwarts Legacy…..out of video memory, failed and crashes on loading shaders etc. I found that deleting shaders might get it through loading shaders but some times not. Oh what to do. Then I see this video! But I’m thinking I really don’t want to mess up my overclocks, making this global change just for this game. What I do before staring the game, type power and sleep settings in search, click on Additional power settings. My normal is Ultimate Performance. Click on change plan settings for the power saver plan, now click Change advanced power settings, in the window expand processor power management, expand Maximum processor state, I set to 80%, apply, save changes, select power saver plan. Now start the game and it will load shaders and run just fine. My CPU runs at 2.2ghz in low power plan while game is running in full screen, not good. I hit alt enter to windowed mode, CTRL ESC to focus mouse off game go to power settings window, select Ultimate performance plan again. Go back to game, alt enter to full screen and my CPU is running again at 5.8 ghz again for hours of awesome stable play!
Since you set the low power plan to CPU 80% it doesn’t have to be done again. So Before starting game set plan to low power Start game Go back set to ultimate performance plan( best for gaming) Your all set
@@701Builder that’s great and all I guess if you wanna bounce between different games and have to do that every single time you start a game and then change it every time you play another game. Or you could just set a profile in your bios and save it and when you’re done playing Hogwarts Legacy go back to your original profile. Your call though. But I’m glad that worked for you. 😁👍🏻
Hey great video, idk if you can spare some help here, but I tried what other user (@D-meist) mentioned about XMP, noticed my was on XMP 1 and based on googling I switched mine to XMP 2 that should be factory values. Funny enough this fixed my Last of Us part 1 shader problem that would also always crash. But Hogwarts legacy still crashes right in the beginning of shader building, this is when the game opens at all. I have a i9 14900K, 64gb ram and a 4090 with 24gb vram. Any guesses on what I could try next?
@@jookeringa you could try raising the voltages to the memory in bios and voltages to the CPU. That could improve the stability. You could also try running the program as administrator. That might help. My pleasure, buddy. I hope it helps you out.
PC Gaming is a big let down bro, I was always gaming on console. 1 month ago i bought myself a pre build RTX4090 with an I913900kF and no game just runs with out having to fix something, or change something or looking in forums for sollutions. This is all new to me and it sucks, woudnt think this would happen buying a powerfull pc. Spending big money for something to be afterwards spending time to get something to work. Hogwarts legacy random crashes, stutters and the thing is i dont understand any thing you just said lol
I’m sorry to hear that. PC gaming is very rewarding once you learn how to navigate the intricacies of a personal computer. Lol. However, most games should work easily without having to do anything. Some of the easiest solutions for gaming is right clicking the desktop shortcut and selecting run as administrator. The overclocking thing is a bios setting. Sometimes people push their systems too far, above recommended specifications. I wish you the best.
i need to know . i have hp victus and having same trackpad laggy issues. now can u tell me will this work if i connect the wire to the with one of the right side screw instead of under that metal bracket where the trackpad clicks are. will this work or not please tell
If I make another video on it, it will likely be to tell people not to use it. Lol The radio buttons are not intuitive, the AC control is unreliable. The whole system itself is just not well put together.
@@pietro4836 it will work for data but it will only work via hotspot internet tether in the US. I just want to stress no cell capability in the US. But they have instructions on how to do that stuff with the unit. It’s not hard.
i need to know . i have hp victus and having same trackpad laggy issues. now can u tell me will this work if i connect the wire to the with one of the right side screw instead of under that metal bracket where the trackpad clicks are. will this work or not please tell
Generally speaking I would not do it with this generation. The tweaking tends to introduce a lot of problems. I’d set factory defaults. I did instant 6ghz profile and left it alone. There are tons of tweaking tutorials though. Just google one, it’s very easy.
@@DSBsky77I’ve tried looking into so many videos on it and I still can’t really figure it out most I have an msi motherboard with a i7 13700k and most people i see have a gigabyte or something else the bios are completely different
I wouldn’t recommend the climate control. After extensive testing I find it to be very janky. Unintuitive, badly designed and it feels unnatural. Not to mention in some cases it just doesn’t seem to work properly at all. I like the big screen personally fur the Idrive however. Preference I suppose. But the passenger can watch a movie on it even and the GPS screen is very easy to see, even in very dense road patterns.
I really like how you twisted the tubing. So what you cant close the top and side panel. Bet it works real good. Are you happy with velocity 2 water block, can you compare it to others you have used? Thank you.
Generally, when I change things like that, I tend to restart the computer anyway because we all know how computer are. They are temperamental. Restarting things tends to set things right. lol. So it may not be necessary, but I would do it regardless.
I tinted the screen because it’s too bright at night but no, I don’t have trouble seeing around or over it. Not in my way at all. You’re welcome buddy. 😁👍🏻
It was intentional. It was to show the snorkeling fins they have us which were warped and bent to almost 90degrees. I keep trying to bend them by hand to how they are supposed to be, which is straight but they were so horribly deformed they’d return to a terrible and unusable bend. I also wanted to show the terrible condition of the boat. Horrible tears everywhere. Boat belongs in a junk yard.
Now I wonder, how will communication work when KSP 2 adds more planets? Because at the distance of Eeloo, even with the best antenna, the signal starts to weaken. Imagine in another solar system.
I was having a similar issue with a different subprocess, L-Connect Service was throttling my CPU to the extent of causing graphical artifacts. I did not have a resource folder as I am running LConnect3 V2.0.13, but changing the name of the application to L-Connect ServiceOFF it also fixed it on my version. The only functionality I lost was LConnect3 no longer displays CPU temps or fan speeds and can no longer control either parameter. LED controller still functions without it. As long as some other program controls those fans and temps should be all good. If all the service/system application does is fetch some measurements it should not demand any real CPU power, probably a bad interaction with other applications.
Happy to say this fix worked for me! Just some notes to anyone doing this. I used a long zip tie that I stripped the ends of. The screw on the right gets stripped easily and is a pain to unscrew. I ended up needing pliers to loosen it. Finally id tie the part connected to the metal part of the touchpad to the left of where he shows in this video instead of the right so that the wire doesn't get stuck under the left click and prevent clicking. Thanks again to you and the genius that figured this out!
i need to know . i have hp victus and having same trackpad laggy issues. now can u tell me will this work if i connect the wire to the with one of the right side screw instead of under that metal bracket where the trackpad clicks are. will this work or not please tell
idk if your issue was just temp not updating quickly but I have the issue of the actual wrong temp. It was freaking me out early on that it said my CPU was 55-60 degrees not doing much, but I found out thats my CPU package temp? Any other software opened CPU temp is at least 10 degrees lower and L connect temp matches the package so that has to be my assumption. Any ideas? thanks.
the reason why this works is because the touchpad was never given a ground connection and static will just build up like the bastardized children of a Nigerian woman. HP is full of fucking clowns as ingeniers
With way too much time on my hands lol. I’d launch a rocket with multiple satellites attached to it, each had a small fuel supply and booster. Then I’d release them once I got the main rocket to the desired orbit and spread out the small satellites afterwards.
@@DSBsky77 Thanks for checking, when I go to the link It still says "This video isn't available anymore" /watch?v=YZJ44v9s8XQ I finally got the tools and some wire to try this, I ended up using speaker wire but It's still pretty spotty, it'll work for 30 seconds then stop then work for a bit more then stop pretty consistently but randomly. Not sure what else to try at this point. I may try adding another wire to the left side of the board too.
Thanks for this nugget! for 20 quid in "parts", I've been able to fix this issue in 40 min after living with it for about 3 wks trying to figure out wtf was going on! for anyone else I have a 2014 4 series convertible. Now I'm onto the next problem.... rear pass window regulator if anyone knows anything about this, I've got the part.
