Great tutorial. I did however experience one small issue of the printer not updating the firmware when i turned it on. Turns out I needed to rename the .bin file (I named mine CR Touch but any name works) and it updated with no other issues.
Chris is helpful but, seems to be above answering any of my questions, so I am going to tell everyone. Nice guitars. I prefer wood, because it can be worth lots just for the rare wood used..
@@the3dprintzone Of course! If I were a creator I would definitely read the comments, so I operate under the assumption that most do. 😆 Only recommendation I would have is learn to solder. It is absolutely doable, absolutely worth it, and a soldering iron doubles as a smoother for printing. I got a really good value soldering station on Amazon for about $60-65. I used it once, then it sat for almost a year. I tried to use it again, wouldn't turn on. I emailed the company, told them what happened, and they shipped me a new one that arrived within a week.
@@doggosensei341I should have the CAD work done in the next week or so, then need to prototype and make sure all the components fit properly which will take another week or two. I’ll release the designs on my website prior to making a full build RU-vid video which will take another couple of weeks. Wish I could go faster but work a full time job and other life responsibilities
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate the feedback! Bass kits would be cool, just need to figure out a design method that will be able to withstand the higher string tension. Rock on!
would it also be possible to make the outer parts 1 or 2 mm thinner on the top in order to attach a would peace as top ? How about selling the fusion 360 files so that everybody can change e.g. the fillings ?
just printed one of your guitars, the lower strings already on (enoug for power chords :-)) and stays in tune! Waiting for my humbuckers in single coil format. Is this guitar also available as STL ?
Awesome!! I am planning on releasing a humbucker version as well in the near future. I will be uploading this guitar as an STL later today! Thanks again for your support and let me know if you have any other questions or recommendations for other designs!
This is probably the best presented and thorogh CR Touch install video. Maybe these additional tips could be helpful: 1. Take photos or a screenshot from this video of how the cables are arranged in the electronics box. It's kind of tight in there and it is easy to put strain on or pinch a wire when putting it back together. And you want the wires spaced correctly so that the airflow from the fan is not blocked. 2. That notch at the bottom where the cables come out is very sharp. It seems sharp enough to eventually damage the tape and loom. (I nicked my own wire by accidentally dragging it across that sharp edge). There is a protector on Things Universe to protect that area. 3. If you have trouble fishing the new cable through the thinner loom, a length of filiament can be run through the loom so you can connect it to the cable and pull it back though. I melted a small rounded hook on the end of the filimant to help hold the end of the new cable. A piece of tape held the filament to the cable. The rounded hook also made it easier to push the filament in. 4. For the CR Touch's mounting bracket screws, I used a small drop of blue threadlock since the sensor is going to be knocking around. A couple loose screws will throw off the sensor.
Great addition to my old E3, that never occurred to me until someone else mentioned the addon being available. Your instructional video made installation painless; many thanks!
I get that this was a year ago & therefore you've probably gotten all the feed back you needed to rectify matters, but ill just spell it our anywayz.. check your intonation & action. Intonation wise, your Simple Man demo was waaaay off. Then there was something else you played towards the end that suggests maybe action might also be an issue. Regardless, seeing as this video is a year old, it would be great if you did an update video about this guitar so we can all learn about what worked & what you think/know needs correcting.
Im curious how these will hold up over time because there's a lot of pressue from the strings and i dont think pla could handle it almost seems like a better idea is a wooden core with 3d printed wings
The PLA holds up surprisingly well with a high infill percentage for the center core. I recommend a minimum of 40% but 50%+ is better. You can also print in a stronger material for even higher strength to prevent flexing.
Nothing wrong with your playing, it sounds great. I would say though, the action needs fixing if you haven't already. You may also need to adjust the nut slot height. It is very evidently out of tune in the last playing clip when you go to the open chord. The barred playing before that is in tune. Without having had a look at the guitar, I would say this is a combination of too high action and nut slots too high.
Holds up surprisingly well! I recommend printing the center core with at least 40% infill (50%+ is even better) for extra strength. The neck is bolted on with the metal neck plate on the back so that really creates a strong joint. If you check out my website in the description I also offer several other designs if you’re interested. I also offer everything together as a kit (neck, pickups, all electronics, hardware, etc) included so you don’t have to source your own. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for the comment! The center core piece is best to print as a single part to withstand string tension, but you could try to split it into 2 parts and use strong dowels. Another option would be to try to tilt the print up vertically on the bed. This will require more infill, but may do the trick. Just be aware of the layer line orientation to make sure they dont go in the direction of the string tension. Hope that helps and best of luck!
This saved my printer almost 2 years later lol! Also for anyone not getting the updated options, try updating your board's firmware rather than the CR touch firmware. I was almost 1.6 versions behind
Can confirm, this was the first thing I printed on my new A1 and it really is this freaking fast. At 0.2mm layer height the quality is better than with my Ender 3 or Kobra Plus at 0.16. This is an utterly amazing machine.
Excellent tutorial! Can't wait to try this when my printer comes. Also, I definitely recommend Warmoth if anyone is looking for decent quality necks for their 3D builds. I've found those generic "parts guitar kits" are made from extremely cheap materials and the build quality of the neck is generally of very low quality. Horrible almost non existent QC. This in itself sort of devalues the level of work and time put into these builds, as every aspect of it is amazing otherwise. The let down I've noticed with many of these builds is the neck. Even worth looking into licensed Fender or Ibanez necks, these can be found on eBay pretty cheap, and you know you're getting a quality neck to make that custom build just that more professional. Just make sure the neck pocket matches the correct neck specs.Just my two cents.
Thanks for the comment! I completely agree! Even an entry level guitar neck from a Fender / Ibanez / Gibson guitar is significantly better than most of the cheap necks you find on amazon ect. I now offer complete 3D printed guitar kits on my website which come with all Fender Squier necks and electronics if you are interested to check them out (www.the3dprintzone.com/shop/3d-printed-guitar-kits). Currently just Telecaster-style options, but I plan to add more kit options in the future.
my cr touch seems to move up from the bed even after i set the offset, like when i start the print is does not bring it down far enough, any suggestions.
hey at least the bed and hotend are warming up while calibration is happening. my ender 3 v2 has to warm up BEFORE any movement happens. and i have to calibrate BEFORE i let it warm up.
Agreed. I found another video that's much more helpful, and in that one, they say the ordering doesn't matter. All four tube eventually funnel into the same output.
Use common sense. The longer tubes should go from the point farthest away from your printer. Shorter tubes would then go on the side closest to your printer.
Maybe include the fact that you need to know the mainboard type while you have the compartment open? Not exactly fun to access the bottom of these things.
@@the3dprintzone Yeah, I think that would look wicked man. Looked into 3d printing guitar bodies myself (necks feel like they would be difficult?) and seems like a fun project. Currently wondering if it would be possible to cast clear resin in a way that part of the body could be completely see through? Like the old Dan Armstrong guitars.. anyway love your work mate!
My glass Ben on my ender 5 was warped from the factory. I'm switching to one of these to see if that dip in the middle goes away. I tried everything before that lol
