Important: Check the following before sticking down the adhesive plate. After my initial install (Months ago) I found the magnetic grip was weaker than I had expected. I have purchased another brand and I found out (For both brands) that the magnetic pull is far greater depending on which direction the sticker goes down. Test the top plate on the sticker base before installation. If it appears weak, turn the sticker 90 degrees compared to the flex plate and you'll find the grip is 10 times stronger. As I said, this is the same for the two brands (Creality and Kingroon). If this is the case for other brands, I can only wonder why this is not mentioned in any installation guide.
Very good point thanks so much for sharing! Glad I saw this before installing. The brand I purchased had a pretty significant difference in strengths from direction change
This is EXACTLY what I needed to see. I knew it was going to be difficult to get the adhesive magnet sheet aligned with the aluminum plate, and you perfectly showed a great way to do it. Thank you!
I realize this is a 1y old episode, but regarding sticking to glass, I found that a flat wood chisel is way better than the included scraper. It is super sharp and will slide under the print to pry it up. The glass surface is great, just clean it with alcohol before the print, and either use a chisel, or wait for the cool down when it'll unstick without any problems. I am only upgrading the bed because I understand PETG doesn't play well with glass. This said, thanks a lot for the instructions :)
I recommend upgrading the bed leveling springs with stiffer ones, and adding an auto-levelling sensor like a CR-Touch or a BL-Touch as the magnetic flexible surface is not as plane as the original glass bed , otherwise you might struggle a lot with the manual leveling procedure.
Thank you, just bought this exact plate and have this exact printer. I was up and running in less than 10 minutes (15 included the manual bed mesh), prints like a dream!
As a total 3D printing Noob I thought I was doing something wrong since my prints were an absolute bitch to remove from the glass bed on my V2. I have been using a cleaner / degreaser to clean the glass, a product called Gyeon which is meant to clean auto finishes prior to applying ceramics. I thought that was my issue, so I switched to IPA hopping that would fix the releasing issue. I have this creality pei sheet still in the box since I have other mods that I have been installing. After your video, I'm going slap this on and give it a go. At least I know that I'm not the only one with an aggressive glass sticking issue. Subbed
A lot of your degreasers and cleaners will actually improve adhesion and make it harder to remove. The main thing, I think, is that you need to let your bed cool sufficiently before trying to remove it. You can freeze it, but I even just let my prints sit until the bed has been back down to 20c for quite a while, and they usually pop off nicely. Or sometimes I just use the included spatula and a mallet. lol. Most of my interest here is that I don't like having the clips take up print space and risk interfering with the head. By "Risk", I mean I've come home to a pile of filament spaghetti because the head popped off a clip and slid the whole bed off. A Bad mounting mechanism for sure.
Great video! I was having the same issue with prints sticking too well. Although I haven't broken a print yet, it takes way too long to remove one. I have to use a razor blade to get an edge started. That isn't very safe. Looking forward to using my flexible bed. Thanks for the video.
I wish there was way to easily swap between spring steel pei and glass bed. Prusa does this by embeding magnets in the aluminum base, so they're not in the way. Also never had troubles releasing PLA prints from carborundum glass. you just need to wait few minutes to cool from 60C to like 50 or 45C, then the release is much easier. after waiting for it to cool even further it usualy even unsticks by itself.
I just bought one for my ender 3 v2 as well, got so many issues with my glass bed with prints just not sticking to the bed anymore ... annopying as heck. Been printing on tape but that's not really a solution i think. You make the installation look easy wnough tho, thanks for the vid.
I find it odd how you say… you have trouble getting your printed objects off the glass, because I have the exact opposite problem! I can’t get medium to larger items to stick to the bed long enough to finish. I ordered that gold colored PEI spring steel magnetic plate, and it should be here soon, and I really hope it works!!
My glass Ben on my ender 5 was warped from the factory. I'm switching to one of these to see if that dip in the middle goes away. I tried everything before that lol
Bought a brand new Ender 3 Max Neo. I upgraded the bed to the flexible magnetic bed. I cant get my prints to stick. Is my PLA not hot enough or why isnt it sticking?
So I installed one of these and now the bed is too low. I bring z-level down to zero and I also use the manual bed leveler wheels to bring the bed as high as it will go - but I'm still way too far off.
not bad video by any means but i would highly recommend anyone watching this to clean the surface of the bed with 90% alcohol first but other than that great video!
So, why choose the PEI bed cover instead of the Creality cover? The flex bed sounds more convenient than using the freezer, but prints do just pop off (some just fall off by themselves) if you chill it for a couple minutes.
I got one because when I did the freezer method the rough side of the glass, like the black dots, came come with it. That whole layer detached. Could just be me, but sharing my experience why I switched.
@@playerone6373that would loosen the screws a lot thus keeping less pressure on the springs possibly causing it to be uneaven. Not an expert but yeah springs should be as tight as possible but not too tight
@@serialshitposter186 not sure how to reply on ur comment. the guy lowered the switch which is a bit unreliable instead of leveling the bed. springs has nothing to do with the switch. its all about leveling.
You know you could just get a cr touch and not mess with that. You may have to go into the z-offset probe wizard and get your feeler guage or paper though but the amount of time you save
There probably are a few videos online. The idea is that for each corner, you should be able to push a piece of paper below, and feel a bit of resistance.
Hi I see in some videos bed temp needs higher like 70c normal pla printings, how is your experience? I ordered yesterday too. I'm waiting for my parcel.
I have opposite problem with Ender Neo - the model is getting detached from the glass bed while still getting printed.. Any suggestions what to do? Brande new printer. Thx!
I heard that magnets can get damaged, lose their strength over time, and their surface becomes uneven especially for high temp printing such as ABS, Any tips on how to deal with that?
The demagnetization temperature varies depending on the magnet materials. You have different levels. What I refer to as "Elastic" and "Plastic" demagetization. Not sure the technical term for them, but I get these from plastic and elastic deformation in materials science. Elastic demagnetization is at a lower temperature. It temporarily disorganizes the material, causing it to lose magnetism, but magetism is restored when the temperature returns. This is used in rice cookers to deactivate the heater as soon as the bowl gets just above boiling. Plastic demagnitization is at a higher temperature. It causes permanent demagnetization. Some might be restored at lower temperature, but it will continue to creep away and magnetization will fade over time. The example using rice cookers shows that they can have pretty good control over when demagnetization occurs. And manufacturers of 3d printer beds know they are working with higher temperatures. You'll want to check what range they recommend. Any of these should be safe with PLA. But it might be harder to find one that works with ABS, which needs temperatures of like 130C+. My main concern with these has more to do with the thermal conductivity of polymer magnets. As far as I understand, they are almost always great thermal insulators, which is something you don't want when transferring heat from a heater to a bed. I'll have to look more into that part.
Using the scraper on the glass just ruins the texture coating and removing prints is as easy as waiting a few min for the bed to cool down. It releases the prints with no force required.
Hi Josh W. I found that I don’t need hairspray or any other adhesive when using the PEI flexible bed. As long as your bed is properly leveled and you have your temps set properly, the print will stick on its own. Hope that helps! Would appreciate if you used my affiliate links :) Like and subscribe and happy printing!
So lets say I went and slapped it ontop of the glass bed instead XD how likely would it be removable haha so i can restick it onto the metal build plate ? just heat it enough so i can peal it or just buy a new one XD
There is no way you are going to get the magnet off of the glass bed and reapplied to the metal build plate but with it on the glass bed is still perfectly usable.
Hey Cameron, thanks for the question! I have not personally removed the magnet before, but I have seen other people who have. If you use the putty knife it shouldn't be too difficult to remove....you could always use a bit of alcohol to help remove it and clean off the surface to remove the residue. That being said, I think once you go to a flexible magnetic bed you probably wont want to go back to glass. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions! I am posting some new videos soon, so make sure to subscribe :) Happy printing!
Are you sure? I've just had mine delivered and thought the same as you but on closer inspection the fit between the 'thinness' of both pieces makes it look like only one piece.....they're stuck magnetically together and so just seem to be one piece
@@stuffoflardohfortheloveof I realized I ordered the wrong one it was meant for if you had bought their entire bed replacement set which is already magnetic
Never had any luck with that unless you talking about throwing a freezer or refrigerator. I've had print set for 24 hours and they're more stuck than a wedgie
With the glass bed I've tried waiting for the prints to cool down to room temp but that didn't really help much, but with a flexible bed it should be really easy to pop the the prints right off as soon as they finish printing
When using PLA, that might be correct. However, PETG and ASA tend to stick really bad, sometimes so much that it can damage (chip) the glass bed, even when completely cooled.
sorry but it's hard to take your advice when I see you are still using the stock springs for the bed. That should literally be the first thing you do to a ender 3 printer.
