The goal is to finish my Astra f and make it a runner again. After this who knows what other buit I will start. Guess we will find out... Here is my email: vabprojectsoriginal@gmail.com for questions and disscutions.
Probably i took it off and forgot to film it. The necessary tools i dont know from my mind but are not so special. A set of torx keys and alans plus some socket keys (10,12,13,15,18,etc) will do the job.
La 1.6 vin din spatele admisiei si ies pe partea cu distributia . De acolo se impart . Sunt niste furtunase negre sibtiri. Nu stiu la 2.0 cum sunt dar presupun ca sunt asemanatoare.
@decebalaeterna4899 inainte sa cauti capac vezi daca iti sufla sau trage aer fals prin orificiul de la capac unde e membrana. Dai jos capacul de la bobina si pui degetul pe gaurica aia de acolo ca sa iti dai seama daca trage aer fals. Verifica si valva de purjare vapori rezervor ca ai acces usor la ea si o poti verifica sufland in ea. Daca trece aerul din ambele parti e dusa. Trebuie sa treaca aerul doar dintr-o parte dinspre rezervor. Uitate la furtunele de vacum sa nu fie crapate sau iesite.
Its the one after the turbo. It is connected to the turbo and goes down to the exhaust. It has a flange thath connects it to the turbo and under the car has a 3 point flange thath connects it to the exhaust with 3 nuts.
@@vabprojects I got it. I just unhooked the band. Putting it on correctly later can be problematic 😅 but it is not impossible. The exhaust manifold heat shield is probably the worst.
I have a problem with the lighting of the ceiling in the passenger compartment, everything on the dashboard lights up, but those on the ceiling do not. I replaced the headlight switch but it doesn't come on again, can you direct me to where the wires go under the hood, is the problem with a relay on astra f
Salut. Acum am 215000 aprox. dar nu bag mana in foc ca sunt reali😁. Am luat-o la 185000 dar nu am verificat asta niciodata. Din cauza jocului axial la axul de la turbo l-am schimbat ca sa nu am probleme pe viitor.
Yes sir, i love your video. But am asking how i will fix opel astra f cc 1996 fan and the heater,? And how do i fix the brakes sensor, tire sensors these sensors are disconnected. Thank you
Hello. Can you tell me where his main ecu is located, opel astra f 1996/1.4 engine c14se? The car has a cheaper classic gas system installed, it won't start on gasoline, it doesn't send 12v power to the gas pump and the engine. Thanks.
Excellent. (Just watched your efr vid, too.) That was soooo clean! Mine was filthy thick sticky black. I was wondering about putting it in ultrasound (electric part out out cleaner) but havent seen anyone do it, so i didn't. Was expecting idle to shoot up until ecu readjusted. Not only did it not do that, it stayed too low and despite engine starting easily it cut out as usual after a few seconds (fuel psi 50 holding, new plugs). Thanks, thumb & subbed.
Very clear, thank you. Ist it possible to put it in an ultrasound (keeping the solenoid above liquid)? Is there a plunger coming from the solenoid that needs cleaning? Thanks again. Best wishes from France.
I dont know if is ok to put it in ultrasound for cleaning but teoreticaly it sould be ok.(if its dry properely after). i think if you clean it properely like i did in the video sould be enough and for sure you will not damage anything.Im glad this was helpful for you. Thank you for watching.
Hello, good work but you trying to rebuild pre-lift model like on my selling adv video. Front atrapen should be different. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BJH5nbwTnLE.html
Salut!!! Oare problema ta cu Amestec Sărac era !doar! din cauza membranei? Dar această problemă cu membrana e comună? Mă mir totuși că nu aveai și Amestec Bogat! Eu am acum, am găsit valva pe eBay în Anglia la 500 lei, încă nu am montat-o. Dar eu am și 0.4 consum la relanti, clar îmi consumă mai puțin când începe problema, după vreo 20-30 km încontinuu mers prin oraș 2-3 ture. Mie la relanti, la o intersecție da la alta ba, mi se turează greu și moare ușor motorul. Clar bagă prea puțină benzină că el simte că ar fi prea multă, din cauza vaporilor de combustibil. Și mie îmi scoate sunet când suflu în ea. Și doar cu un sfert de rezervor îmi intră vapori k-lumea. Eu am consum scăzut după 20-30 km de mers prin oraș, 9.5 în loc de 10.5 cel mai bun consum. Iar dacă o las două ore și merg din nou atunci imediat îmi crește consumul de la 9.5 la 10.5-11.2. Deci, clar, îmi injectează mult mai puțină benzină că simte vapori în cantitate prea mare. Ciudat e că de două ori am mers pe pilot automat la consum 15 cu 15 km dus întors (la drum lung, 1900 rpm la 85 km/h) și mi-a apărut Check Engine în bord de fiecare dată. Și atunci când îmi consumă mai puțin clar trage mai bine, spre deosebire de primii 20-30 km când îmi trage mai nașpa, ca și cum benzina e de calitate inferioară. Sigur și softul original e o rușine, la doar 97.000 km reali aveam un strat clar de funingine la clapetă și am curățat-o. Ce-i drept relanti-ul nu mai e la fel de tremurat, dar tot mai are unele momente aiurea la relanti. Cam atât.
Salut. La mine pana la urma a fost membrana de la capacul culbutorilor rupta si am rezolvat problema doar dupa ce am schombat-o. Nu stiu cat e de comuna dar in majoritatea cazurilor cu amestec sarac e ca pe undeva trage aer fals. Vezi la capacul de la bobina dupa ce il dai jos daca trage aer prin orificiul ala mic Inseamna ca e membrana de la capacul culbutorilor e sparta. Verifica furtunasele de vacuum sa nu ai vreunul apart sau desfacut. Amestec sarac Inseamna in general aer fals.
Pull out. From the oil pan it's just insert there with an o ring and you need to pull it out. Just be sure to have the upper screw that keeps it fix to the block unmounted and then gently pull it up.
I have the Petrol one....i got this error randomly today while driving. Bank 1 p0420. Can you advice? I cpuld delete the code with obd2 bluetooth. And in next 30km didn't re appear.
You can delete the code but if there is an issue it will reapear. You need to ceck the O2 sensors and the catalityc convertor to se in what condition it is. Its possible to have a leak in the exhaust (on the flexible joint) and this can be the issue. check the exhaust first for leaks.
Hello, i have insignia Sportstourer 1.6 turbo A16LET same engine, i see oil leaks at oil pan and i smell antifreeze when i stopped the car, i bought complete oil cooler , 3lt antifreeze, Liqui Moly toptec 4600 5w30 and GM oil filter and filtron air filter, is there any other parts i need to buy?
Because you will dismantle the turbo and the exhaust from the engine you will need to change the gasket between the exhaust and engine. Oil cooler seals if doesn't come with them, there are some oring s that seals the pipes frome the oil cooler to the block but it's possible to reuse the old ones if thei are still good (preferably to change them). Make sure to drain the coolant before you unmount the oil cooler ,that way coolant doesn't enter the oil circuit. Also if you unmount the exhaust and turbo I recomand (optionaly) to unmount the oil pan and clean it before new oil ( here gasket sealant).
Hi! Have you done this yet? Problem solved? I also experience dirt in the coolant tank, can smell the coolant around the car from the engine bay and there is some oil on the floor in the garage. So, it is my turn to get it done. I hope this is the cause. ?
Hello, What brand did you use for the oil cooler gaskets? My Opel Astra J is leaking oil from the oil cooler and there is oil deposits in the coolant reservoir. Do you know with what force the bolts from the exhaust manifold, turbocharger and oil cooler should be tightened?
I've recently found that the EGR problems can be had further down the line, at the intake manifold. I tore down my engine due to a broken valve and found that the channel in the intake manifold for the EGR flow was COMPLETELY gunked up with black mud from oil mixing with soot. Nothing would go through there at all, and maybe this was causing my engine to run hot (without actually overheating). So i would also check - and clean - there as well.
Yes it is possible to put one but you will need to change alot of parts in order to make this. I think it will be cheaper to buy an second hand engine with turbo and swap it. It involve a great amount of work and you need to think if its worth it.
You have to remove the oil check pipe to make room and remove the 3 bolts that holds the shield in place. If you don't remove the oil check pipe it will be hard to remove it.
O carro e excelente, mais essa maquina do vidro traseiro pra mim foi um grande erro de projeto. Essa peça de plástico quebra o tempo todo. Tinha que ser de metal.
It depends on how your car is performing. If it's running fine or if you don't have any errors than you don't need to do this process. If you mean how many times you have to open the injector while cleaning , as many times is needed until it will spray uniform and strong.
@@vabprojects Man I have the same engine in Astra J 1,6T 180/230 I do not have any problems, only sometimes the engine can a little vibrate (not visual) you will see it only when you put your fingers on valve cover. And I searching what It can be. One friend tell me about the fuel injectors. What do you think about that?
@@Player_-lu5kh It is possible to be from am injector but also can be a lot of causes. If you have acces to live data from a testing tool you can see how the injectors are working and see if there are diferences in one of them.
I don't know. If the app have live data and you can access the injectors data from it maybe you can notice something. But as far as I know you will need a more professional echipment to do that.
Greetings from Spain. All my encouragement for you to continue repairing that Opel Astra F. It is a model of which there are few units left in the world. Take care of it, don't abandon it and send it to the scrap.
