How did u create a gas pedal with the lawn mower motor? I want to do this with my old lawnmower. I’d just like to know how you was able to connect a gas pedal, and how the motor would stay on without putting pressure down on the cable
Removed the motor brake so the mower will stay running until I turn it off. Have a riding mower key switch install where the mower deck garden hose attachment hole. The switch grounds the coil wire to kill the motor. The self-propelled cable is hooked to big hing as a go pedal. So the motor is always running at full and drive is variable by pushing the go pedal more.
Не понимаю зачем два домкрата. Достаточно одного горизонтального. Не, человек сделал стоящую вещь- респект! Но делая подъемник для легких мотоциклов и мопедов типа хонда дио, буду устанавливать только в горизонтальной плоскости. Ну или два спаренных но опять таки в горизонт.
You need the first jack to raise part way a little. The single horizontal jack can not lift or takes a lot of extra force to lift from a fully open scissor state with even a small amount of weight to the table. I wanted the table to lift from the lowest point.
True. But to get good traction it needs all the weight on the drive wheels. But that does limit the tongue weight also. Just for moving around medium trailers on flat surfaces. Thanks for commenting.
I did this much easier by buying a larger diameter PAS on a Huffy (one piece crank) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VBnZiKGxFhs.htmlsi=NScmqEC-5XK_4v8D
thank you for sharing this excellent insight and walkthrough. i have a 3800pld with purple learn button door opener and a 398lm wall control panel where the motion detector light on/off control stopped working, as in it would turn light on and leave it on. i purchased latest 889lmmc wall control panel having been told the wall control panel motion detection sensor must be broken and the new wall control panel not only doesn't work it makes a constant buzz sound. someone in a reddit forum exchange said issue with new wall control panel, and perhaps the existing ones motion detection, is the logic board and to replace it. replacing the capacitor(s) sounds like a better first thing to try given what you stated here and fact that everything else about door opener and original wall control panel is working fine.
'' SERIOUS QUALITY '' ...yup, no doubt. ALOT of those drill ' bits ' coming from china, those yellow ones, AREN'T WORTH A plug penny ! Don't even make very good awls, or punches - only good for pounding into a wall ; use for hanging hoses. Cheapest ' steel ' ever...chinesejunk. I use very old, GOOD drilling bits - all black ! or titanium, or carbide tipped.
I cried this and made a video. I failed at my mostly because of the hill in my driveway and the weakness of my handlebars. Mine probably would have moved his boat just fine, but my camper was just too heavy. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7TGVYzbKzxo.html
So I have been using something similar but with roundish deck wheels. The problem is the resistance the wheels add when going through snow. In a light snow they are fine, but in deep snow it becomes a wrestling match.
Thank you Chuck. It's been a minute since I've used a soldering iron but here I am with an operational garage door unit and about $120 still in my pockect. Total repair was $8.00 and 20 minutes from start to finish..
This was really helpful to see the basic structure. I know it’s not a full DIY but my window needs are different (mine is vertical, I need a cat cat door, etc) so I’ll have to make my own adjustments anyhow. This was great to start with some ideas for mine. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. Your instructions as to what was happening when the light was on was vary informative. I followed your directions to repair it and it now works great. Thanks again.
I am going to do this! Thanks so much for posting. I like how you bolted it in re maintenance as well. I have a 5x10 Enclosed Aluminum trailer so this should just great! I’m embarrassed to say it but I live on a crazy busy street with an equally narrow driveway! I might try this for getting in the driveway!
PERFECT! got 2 old lawnmowers behind the shed... I'm doing this today! But based on suggestion, I'm mounting this behind the existing skidders to clear a path for the wheels... trial & error! Thanks
I have two openers with the exact same problem. Since Radio Shack is gone by the way of the buffalo, where would I find a new capacitor? I have another opener that I have saved for parts and I’m thinking about swapping out the circuit boards. It a few year’s old and has a yellow learn button.
Hi Chuck, this procedure worked like a charm, thank you for explaining and documenting it so well! I used a 330uf 50-volt electrolytic capacitor to allow a little extra headroom on the voltage rating. A few additional pointers that may help others: the negative stripe on the capacitor faces the nearby edge of the board. When done with the repair, if your garage door only opens a few inches, you may have bumped the limit potentiometer as I did during the repair. If so, simply use a screwdriver to adjust the blue (on a Craftsman operator) "KG Up" potentiometer value upward, just enough to get the door to open fully. That did the trick for me. The initial symptom I had was that the remote button began working erratically; sometimes several presses were necessary to get the door to operate. That symptom led me to believe the battery in the remote was weak, but testing proved otherwise. Eventually the remote would not open the door at all, but the wall buttons worked. Now, the operator is working beautifully again!
While this method is good as an indicator, a lot of these caps will still show correct capacitance but in reality the ESR will be too high and therefore bad. Even a cheap ESR meter will tell you this :)
The intent of this video is to help a non-technical person to quickly identify a bad capacitor in a circuit without having to own very specialized electronic test equipment. And then show them how easily they themselves can replace it. Electrolytic Capacitors are many times the reason why a “consumer electronics product” just stops working. Electrolytic Capacitors are (cheaply made) and are very common in consumer electronics products and can become weak or just go bad with passing of time.
In many, many things electrolytic caps aren't subjected to enough ripple current for ESR to be a critical factor. It certainly does come into play, but the most common failure in lots of cases is simply "drying out" - loss of the solvent from the electrolyte. This does make the ESR dramatically higher but it also causes the capacitance to drop dramatically. When you get into things like high frequency switchmode converters ESR is very important and it may reach an unacceptable level without much change in capacitance. I've designed lots of industrial switchmode power supplies. I've replaced lots of bad caps on things like PC motherboards. I've *never* used an ESR meter as a diagnostic aid.
No. Inductors will aways measure very low resistance/impedance in and out of the circuit. You will need an LCR meter to read the inductance of an inductor. Inductors seldom fail in a good circuit design and when they do you will usually see it. Electrolytic caps can dry out inside and can lose there capacitance over time.
@@gse244 Thks buts another dumb question; When the volt meter probes are placed across an inductor, ?is there an initial voltage reading that slowly fades-away as the inductor mag-field charges-up (ex: opposite of a cap)?
Two things does yr cat have a friend cat to keep him company, he or she looks lonely, and the other, is the top part of the window resting on the cage should be secured? Cause of unwanted visitors going through the window above
There are many good ideas in this trike design. I like the manner in which the rear needs of the two bicycles were joined together with the main cross beam linking the pedal hubs and the seat pipe helping a little. With the seat being placed very close to the real axle means that the main cross beam is not twisted by the force on the front wheel. Being a very old man , I would have installed the pedals a little lower. Also the crank for the steering should be a little longer to have a more positive steering. Apart from that all is top notch, Congratulations, Well done. Perhaps a little improvement in welding would have looked better, but what there is is good enough.
Worked like a charm - THANK YOU for saving us big bucks! Our 2001 LiftMaster was doing this exact same thing. I knew it had something to do with the logic board and priced one of those out - $149+. Found a place on eBay that would refurbish the logic board for $50. Then I stumbled across your video and thought, this is a no brainer! bought a pkg of 6 of the capacitors (only came in a pk of 6) for ~$8. Soldered the one at the top like you did in and worked perfectly! I figured you saved us ~$500 (cost of new opener + install). Good Karma to you! Thank you so very much. -John
Will try to send a picture tomorrow. It's almost a two person job to get it tight. One to pull tension on the belt with a bar while the other tightens the bolt.
I have a 20 year old 3/4 hp Liftmaster. For a few weeks I was noticing it was acting up, then one day it was totally inoperative. Other troubleshooting vids recommended replacing the logic board which is usually $50-150 for the part, but the one for mine was obsolete/unavailable. After watching multiple videos I stumbled upon one that mentioned the capacitor. There was only one on the board so removal and check showed is was no longer in spec although it wasn't popped/split open on top. 24 hrs later I had replacements in hand (five for $5). Been working well for two years since that fix. As you noted, cracks in solder joints due to vibration could be causing intermittent issues, so good to check for those too.
I picked up a new C450 at a Goodwill for $5.00 the battery would not recharge your video was a blessing took me half an hour and it now works great Thanks Again
