I haven’t watched all the videos yet, so sorry if this is answered elsewhere. Did you design and draw this out yourself? I will be building the same size, but where I live, that is well into ‘you need a permit’ land. I’m trying to figure out how to get drawings I can submit to the city. Creating drawings that the city wants is well beyond my knowledge set, so I’m trying to figure out that step.
Thank you so much. I doing my cabinshed. The baffles are in and now insulation time. Learned so much in a simple but effective way. Will follow your project. Bama Fishin B
Simple and affective. A small tweak I might make for my own use would be to bolt 4x4s in the corner so they can be removed for easier transport. Thanks for the great idea!
1.5 cubic yards of gravel spread over a 12'*18' area, so (3'³*1.5)/(12'*18') = 0.1875', or only 2 1/4" average depth. You mentioned 4" at the beginning. Did I get something wrong or did you settle for less depth in the end?
That's low unless don't intend to plug much more than a few lights in. If you wanted to use anything like a heater, or some power tools, upgrading to 20amp would be better. But you have to do the upgrade at the main panel / upgrade the cable to the shed.. not sure if it's worth all the work for you.
Ok, thanks a lot!. I'll work at bringing a 20 amp. I have 2 questions if you can help me out: 1. I have a 20amp breaker just 30ft away, I was planning to connect the shed there via a UF-B 12-3 cable, does that make sense? 2. I have power plugs and power switches marked as 15 amp, will the work on the new 20amp system or also these should be rated the same as the breaker?
Your build really looks great. Well done! A few times you referenced continuity with your house re siding and the roof. I, for one, would really like some shots of your home and the shed...drone maybe? Perhaps this was addressed, but I'm curious as to WHY you built the shed...what's the endgame? Congrats on your efforts.
the foil side of a one-sided foiled foam board should always face the air space. it will add about R-1 or R-2. if the foil side is covered with the subfloor it won't add any additional R-value as the foil can't radiate back into air. at the end of the day it's still insulating, but you spend more for the foil and don't get the added benefit of it.
It was because I wanted to create two circuits inside the shed, one for lights and one for outlets. I also didn't want to have to walk all the way back to the house if I tripped the breaker.
@@EveryotherKarlThat’s too bad. That’s the only one piece box/block I’ve seen that will fit on Dutch lap siding. Would you happen to know of any others? Thanks for the reply.
I like this concept, but how much more would it cost if I were to build something similar 6’x12’ as a platform, elevating an very heavy custom media booth that’s 5’x11’and at least 400-450 lbs. I’m thinking about 8-12 inches off the ground, for some separation and visibility to main stage.
Great video. Not conventional building practices but it'll do for what you're planning to use it. I'd of recommended stapling metal mesh screening (hardware cloth) across the open ends of your 4x4's to keep critters (racoons, skunks, etc...) from building dens under the building.
Stumbled on to eleven gambrel rafters 11 foot 3.5 inch span. Not sure why the 11 foot but whatever. Were cheap. Intend to create a step/block/gusset to adapt to my 10 foot shed. Possibly add ribs on outside of walls to add support. Here in eastern NC, don't get much snow, wind is more of a concern. Start bending nails next month. Waited till it got HOT!
Compactor would have been better. The tamper did ok, but compactor would do better and usually not too expensive to rent. Your shoulders will thank you too.
80 MPH (yes, I was speeding), radio muted, wife on the phone, and it sounded a little louder than before I installed the crossbars. How simple and cheap. Almost thought about sending the crossbars back, but they just might be here to stay. Thank you!!!
Thanks very much for the video. For anyone who cares, this works. No need to contort your body. Can feel the screws with fingers. For the ones on the corners, temporarily remove the foam padding and it is a straight shot to the screws no problem. Will need to push up on the metal tabs underneath in order to get the holder pushed back into place on the console rails. I held the squeeze lock pressed with a small cresent wrench. Looks good.
Water will run uphill on 12/12 pitch. An ice damn can form on the eave edge. Melting ice will run down top surface until it meets the iced over edge. Gravity will then push the water backwards up the slope under the shingles. I fought this problem for a few years. Only cure was an ice shield.
FYI- the instructions say if you’re screwing into at least 1/2” sheathing, you don’t need to screw into a stud. My shed wall is 7/16” and I’m going to reinforce the area behind the block with a 2x4 or something so the screws have more to bite into.
So you had an existing 20 amp circuit running to your garden shed. You tied into that and ran a 12-3 line to the new shed and attached a new 20 amp breaker and a 15 amp breaker. By my math you're now running 55 amps of service off that original 20 amps going to the garden shed. That original breaker going to the garden shed is now very underrated, and the original wiring is undersized. What am I missing?
From what I understand these are all in sequence, not in parallel. So that means the main cable handle 20Amp, then there is a second breaker into the shed again at 20 just to bring the breaker closer and keep 20Amp, then these 20Amp are reduced to 15 to go to lighting. These are not in parallel so they don't sum up
Great video. I've never really looked at the specifics of installing vinyl siding, and it looks like you did a quality job. That being said I find it disappointing that you built this shed like a tank so far, and then decided to wrap it in plastic. It's not a choice I would have made, but I'm sure it helped keeps cost and labor down. I've had homes with vinyl siding and it fades, stains, cracks, and can be difficult to clean when it starts molding/mildewing.
Thanks for the video, it's definitely one of the best I've seen regarding building the gravel base and shed floor. I'm definitely going to follow your blueprint here. One question, I know you secured the wood posts for the gravel base with rebar, but how do you secure the actual shed floor to the ground? I was thinking you could secure the wood skids using rebar as well. I'm assembling a resin shed which has some weight to it and I will be securing it to the shed floor but I don't want to depend on the weight of the shed alone to make sure it can sustain heavy winds. What do you suggest as far as ensuring the shed itself is secured to again sustain strong and heavy winds?
There are good options out there for shed anchors. Some are cables that anchor into the ground with big screw anchors. I would suggest going with something like that. My shed is very heavy, but I do still intend to anchor it at some point.
Just a tip - You cut your insulation and the insulation dust was spread all over the lawn. Next time, use a tarp under the table saw so you can at least capture 90% of the insulation dust to dispose of it rather than leaving it in your lawn as pollution.
I left my slope. This let water still flow during heavy rains. The front is like 6" grave and back 3 but it is gravel. The top can be raked. The base can be level but over time that perfect level is no more. Unless you have JND eyesite you are good.
Those welds you call spot welds are to refered to as plug welds. Spot welds are performed with a spot welder. A spot weld is actually fusing/melting two metals together by use of intense pin point heat.
Can you put a full comprehensive list of everything you used? I know you have the four in the description but you used clear coat, polish, smoothing compound. A lot of info is missing.
What are your thoughts in sheathing the walls first before adding the roof trusses. I've heard sheathing the walls first adds much needed stability "square"ness of the wall before supporting the load of the roof trusses and rafters.
