I really liked seeing this. Got my first 1602 (I2C) and it's working with a M5Stack StampS3/ESP32 on the next day. In Arduino IDE, the library doesn't allow the pins to change, so it's done from "Wire.h" and we can't use lcd.begin(), but lcd.begin(16,2) goes through and lcd.init() works. The worst is something like M5.begin(), (needed sometimes in my case) will block pins and create something I don't know for sure. My next attempt is more attempts with a 1637 that isn't I2C, but almost. In between, I get another module going. A GPS module was quite mind blowing to dig into. ESP-Now is also new to me.
When is someone going to do this on Coleco Vision? If something designed to only disply text and shapes can produce the illusion of video then a device that can produce animations should be able to do this, they have Bad Apple on Atari VCS and Intellivision.
Hi , looking into making this myself it looks super cool , i got a question tho,while looking for the 74ls163 i couldn’t find it on its own , its always SN74ls163an ,just wondering if it makes a difference
Yes it should work with the middle pin and one of the side pins on a normal pot, but in the upper range of the adjustment you'll see a much smaller change in frequency than in the lower range.
Oustanding video series. Thanks you very much! Will be following any future projects you come up with. I finally got this to work. The one thing that I do not understand is that running say_hello.py on Windows all the characters were output as double byte values, I assume as Unicode. The display had a spurious character preceding every character. I hit upon the idea to run say_hello.py on a Linux box and then got a BIN file with only ASCII output as the result. The Linux BIN file worked as expected. Any ideas on the difference between Python running on Windows versus Linux and the interpretation of characters in Python?
Lowering the resistance will speed up the blinking because it allows the capacitor to charge and discharge more quickly. Choosing a smaller capacitor value will also speed up the blinking because it takes less time for the capacitor to charge to 2/3 or discharge to 1/3 and switch directions. Thank you for the comment!
Trying to read them from this screenshot excess.org/lcd2004-tutorial/ it looks like I used 10k for the debounce, pull-up and pull-downs; 390 for the blue LED and 220 for the other LEDs
Trying to read them from a screenshot it looks like I used 10k for the debounce, pull-up and pull-downs; 390 for the blue LED and 220 for the other LEDs
Nice info, I have for lines activated but can not go to line 4 ? any ideas ? Init Code lcd_send_cmd (0x28); // Function set --> DL=0 (4 bit mode), N = 1 (2 line display) F = 0 (5x8 characters)
Looks like a 1uF cap connected to pin 5 instead of the 0.01uF recommended, and it's connected to Vcc instead of ground. The decoupling capacitors I used are 0.1uF. These are just capacitor values I had lying around that seemed to work. If you know how these values should be chosen let me know.
@@cesarhuerta9632 connecting to Vcc was just an accident that I didn't notice until editing the video. Seems to work fine either way, though so I've left it.
working on it! follow this account for upcoming videos or, if you want to skip ahead, you can find the code that generates the ROM images here: github.com/wardi/cpu/tree/main/maze
My 74LS00 got very hot until I realized I had not removed the wire to pin 4 of the clock's 555 timer while putting in the HALT signal. HTH. BTW, there is no reverse polarity protection here AFIK.
Can someone pleas explain this to me? For weeks, I have been trying to get this circuit to work: setting it up in this *exact* manner. But, the discharge never occurs. The output will get stuck low, but the capacitor will never discharge. Is it possible my IC is damaged somehow? i have tried just about every possible configuration, using a physical RA and RB, using a potentiometer to represent both, using an electrolytic cap instead of a tantalum one, but the exact same thing always happens: Output goes low, cap voltage charges all the way up to Vcc. I know it must be some issue with the path from the Cap through Rb to discharge but I can't figure it out.
Hi Sorry for the stupid question. I manage to let this work on a breadboard. I didn’t have exactly the resistor and the capacitor but I managed to find the right stuff. So I tried to put on a strip board but I’m noticing something weird. I didn’t use the small capacitor that you used but it was fine on the breadboard. Consistent light and good range of oscillation. On the strip board the led emit a really low light before actual blink, I can notice when it’s really slow. As I said on the breadboard don’t happen but I copy the same circuit. Any help? Thank you
Something my dad told me, i had an issue with a circuit i made and he told me to put a large-ish capacitor (maybe 1k/2.2k ųf which is what i use) between the supply and the entire circuit. Suddenly, the effects of what i got from my breadboard is happening on the circuit board, which is what i wanted. Try that, maybe you just have a current shortage and need more available current, idk but good luck though
Hi Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, I am hoping that you can show us what did you program the eeprom with, also can you make 7 segment display for 4 digits. May be show us how to program the eeprom
