Long story short, stick with standard, and if someone sends you the wrong plug in a service kit, dont fit it and assume all is good, get at them, happened to me today twice on different bikes/service kits 😢😂
Thanks for posting this video! I was trying to find out what happens if you use a larger vs. smaller gap on a given spark plug. My car is supposed to use a gap of .044, but the maintenance manual gives a range of just over .039 to about .044 for new plugs. I was wondering if I should go with the .044, or set it at .040, for example. Since the gap gets larger with use, perhaps it makes sense to use a slightly smaller gap when installing new plugs? Again, this was very informative. Thanks!
This video saved my sanity!!! Had the 280z tach and it didn’t work, found your video soldered the jumper wire and done 👍 Thank you so much, your videos are great.
No ECU at the moment. The Emtron I had allowed any table axis to be changed to any input or a calculated channel. It was very versatile in that regard. Motec could probably do the same but I’ve not had any experience.
It's ok I found your video showing your crank... It looks like more weight was taken off the counter weights than the big end areas. Not sure how that would be balanced...
Thank you! Had to re-learn all this when the 30-year-old coil on my old Jag failed and left us stranded halfway up a steep hill. £26 for a replacement coil and all works beautifully again. Moral: old coils fail, so replace them before they go!
If you wrap the aluminum insert with fiberglass veil cloth, there's far less likelihood for corrosion. Also, why not knurl the insert before you cast it?
Strange. Research by yamaha showed that open valve injection (OVI) had more unstable combustion than CVI. google: The Influence of Port Fuel Injection on Combustion Stability Edit: I realized you have it backwards. Open valve and closed.
It makes perfect sense that in a racing application where the plug is firing several thousand times more per minute it is going to be hotter because of it. I normally go down 1 heat range from stock in my performance applications. Inspect your plugs, are they carbon fouled? You may have to rich a fuel mixture, to little spark advance or be 😱 burning oil. This is where having an O2 sensor in the system is helpful.
Thanks @alexandershinkarenko3725 I have not been idle on the Z and I'm hoping to have an update when it is all back together and running with test results 👍
Thanks for your feedback. RU-vid have implemented automated captions and playback speed options that you can utilise if you do not like the way I speak.
No personal experience sorry. I understand they are a good upgrade if you only want to optimise your ignition timing curve for a modified engine. If your engine is mostly factory spec I would recommend upgrading the points to a Pertronix to be able to remove the ballast resistor and get a hotter spark (eg. GT40 coil) and leave the factory ignition timing curve as is.
I have one in my 71 with triple weber 40DCOE's. Works great but you have to set your own curve numbers. I used to run a mallory unilite which always seemed to work well but I wasn't sure I was getting the proper full advance.
Curious to know if you’ve looked at optimising the distance between the carb and the inlet port on the manifold. Not sure if it’s an old racers trick or where I came across it but the distance can affect low down torque. I haven’t tested this to any degree but interested to know if you’ve looked at this.
Yes, it is possible to influence the engine performance with a tuned length intake. I had a set of custom EFI ITBs made for my engine in my newer videos which did just that.
First of all Congratulations for the great work. Just one thing. You mention on the video that you used 62g of fiber and 80g of resin. Resin should be around 40% in weight but you seem to have used much more. Is it because the rest got wasted leaking from the mould during compression?
Great video and explanation! I tried the links in your comment but no luck. Any chance you know the part number of the autobest filter you used as an alternative to the walbro unit? It seems these are on backorder.
Hi Rob, sorry I don't have many notes from 2021. I have do have a note for a 'Walbro fuel strainer 125-118' however which appears available from a number of sources. 👍
How did the 120ohm resistor for the ignition driver turn out? About to upgrade from MS2 on a 3.57 board and I have (2) drivers I'd like to control as you have shown here. Thanks for the great video!
I know this has been a few years now but I picked up a new distributor for my 78 280z but now I get no spark, is there something more I need to do? I assumed by doing it this way it would just drop in and go.
I would look at the heat ranges more like the ability of the plugs to dissipate heat. Combustion pressure and temps do increase with higher levels of performance (burning more fuel in the cylinder) and therefore its the ability of the plug to dissipate that heat back into the head. Therefore I see a hot plug (say a BP5ES) as having less heat transfer ability than a cold plug (say a BP7ES) which will have a greater ability to transfer combustion heat. It may be just a different way of looking at the same issue.
Hey Aaron, Finally getting around to switching from a noisy external pump to in-tank pump, got the Tanks Inc kit and hole saw, but can't find a flat area on the skinny part of the tank to mount to. Finally figured out that my tank is earlier than yours and rather than the single longitudinal stifferner/depressed strip across the the shallow area like yours has, mine has a cross pattern of depressed strips that make finding a flat spot that is under the spare tire bulge difficult. I will need get creative to make a suitable surface for the rings to seal to. Just a heads up that the earliest tanks can't get by with the Tanks Inc kit installed in the same location you show.
I think around $200AUD but this was for larger quantities than was needed for one casting. I suspect costs could be reduced if smaller quantity enough for one cast.
I am not sure if pri-ignition is identifiable via knock monitor as it is normally not abnormal combustion, just combustion that starts before the ignition event at the spark plug by some other source. Pre-ignition is normally identifiable but physical indicators (eg. build up of carbon that in the cylinder, engine run on, poor running) that causes the pre-ignition.
