Oh yes man! Done this my whole live... as a tech assessor. Can´t get rid of it know. This can drive you crazy. No matter the amp is totally quiet now. God forbid the coupling caps to get leaky before I get leaky myself....
I know this is like...6 years later BUT what if I add a master volume pot and change the 100k plate resistor at V4 and change the dampening resistor and impedance resistor before the fx loop? I want the master volume but I also want as little hiss as possible.
Yes, there is! I’ve recently been learning. In the past I used to think each pedal was sufficient on its own. Especially for drives and distortion, how wrong I was.
Hallo! The Schematics on 04:04 and part list at 03:11 is all I got. There maybe has to be some experimentations to be expected so..Take care, good luck!
Nice built!! I made one to,sounds nice,one thing about your power-supply ,with a EZ81 the max elco after the EZ is 47uF,not 100uF ,the EZ will not survive that.
Thanks for your comments! I do not believe everything the internet says about valve technics.... haha.... the exact opposite has been shown in my first experiments with this EZ setup. The 47uF was not enough. Has something to do with the two diodes in the artificial center tap of the so called half wave rectifier setup. Works fine so far. I would recomment the longer reverb time can.
I love mine but my cheap squiers are setup better. Also the tone knob came off, the nut fell off, some dead spots on the fretboard, very sharp fret ends, i ended up bleeding and the worst thing, it was not wired correct. Could not use the bridge alone. And zero support from Hagstrom...
Interesting video; I have a box of dead reverb tanks around here (more often it's the driver end that goes bad), and was figuring on swapping entire transducers around to make a couple of good tanks, but perhaps I'll try rewinding instead. It's somewhat easier for you because you have a pickup winder, which most of us do not..... as for the video, it's very nicely produced, and generally the music was good, but I wish you wouldn't play music when you are speaking because you talk so quietly and softly that the music drowns you out, and you havent enabled the captions. By the way, at times the mudic made me felt that I was in the middle of a Clint Eastwood "spaghetti Western", and so if you do any more videos on this subject, you will have to title them "A fistful of coils"; "for a few coils more"; and "the good, the bad and the ugly of reverb tanks!" 😉😁
I have the same guitar. A friend gave it to me along with his Peavey Rage 158 Transtube practice amp. I modded the Squire Affinity with a Dimarzio Super Distortion pickup, I had from the early 80’s. It’s now an HSS Super Strat. After a little bit of cleaning and setting up on the intonation, it sounds so much better. 🎸👍
Nice build ! I am trying to somehow mod the nowadays layout. I tried to raise the R11 to 220K as you have and i get crazy oscilations. Maybe if you could somehow explain to me how did you choose those values. The grid leak resistor R11 is in TT layout 33K.
This seems to be the value how it would have been used in the original Fender unit with a 6K6. Make shure you got the 12aT7 in the right position (input). Be aware that the new circuit uses much higher voltage at the EL844 anode (which is a good thing) and I used a tube rectifier with lower B+ at the anode. We do not know if anything else is changed. Could also be an other reverb transformer in this kit now.. Good luck
Thanks for your comment! I´ve wired in the missing standby switch later at the end. It was dearly needed in this case - so if you plan on making your own one - don´t skimp on that one!
A few ideas: Try to leave the dark channel as it is, and try a Treble Booster with variable input caps on the dark channel for Classic Rock tones. For the stand by switch: It seems to be a real problem with newer tube rectifiers, and the current spike does not do any good to the rest of the amp either. I have not tried it yet, but putting a NTC (Thermistor) in series after the stand by switch could be a solution, or maybe better use a 2 stage standby switch, with a resistor in the first stage, that functions like a soft start on a HiFi amp. You could also use a soft start in a separate box, and have the standby switch on, when turning the amp on. But then you can not use the standby switch afterwards.
Thanks for your comment and your added knowledge! The problem cured itself after a while. In addition I shorted all the soldered wire strains at the rectifier tube solder lugs to bare minimum be completely flush around the lugs and bend them to get maximal air clearance to another. Could have had possibly an effect I´m not shure but the sparks in the rectifier tubes are long gone...
i did similar. found a loaded pickguard from a am performer with those same pickups for $115 usd on reverb, and went from there. they really are good pickups. I just do light trem stuff with the heel of my palm, so i never have the trem arm on there so mine was much simpler :)
I don't like the standby switch, problematic is what they are good for. On my old Marshall amps I just use the power switch only. Nice build, very nice and neat work, well done!
I like your form factor. Of course a solid wood like walnut would look nice too. Looks like you could resell them or sell a kit. Nice tight wiring. Kudos!!
If you’re a Gibson SG or Les Paul player with a Marshall, try this mod . Keep the original C13 capacitor and replace C33 from 0.47uf to 0.22uf. That removes the muddy bass tone without changing the character of the pedal.
Hi, can you tell me anything about the way the bar attaches to the bridge in the Wilkinson? I see that it has no threads and found no info out there about how it stays in. Does it stay secure? Is there any play when using it?
Hi, there was a plastic bushing inside the block which was secured with an allen screw on the backside of the tremblock If I remember it correctly. Holding the bar is friction based.
thanks for this video , yes that"encourage me to do the same or similar , but could you telle me what was the total amount in " €' ( or ' £ " or " $ ' ) to do it ?
thanks for your comment! ..thats a good question. Apart from the chassis parts I had lying around I invested around 140€ for the essential parts. The big resistors and things like tube sockets and switches and quiet a bit of shipping fees not included. So I think it was not cheap. I would definitely recommend to install a heater standby switch... which I had non at the time but I installed it afterwards. So good luck, have fun diy and take care !
Doesn’t seam like a good kit no matter how much you saved in dollars. There are better kits for the JTM45. I’ve seen them come with everything with no issues.
It depends on which part of the world you live in. If you live in usa it should be possible to get a quality kit from elsewhere. Living in europe (which real marshalls are comming from btw.) the TT Kit is a good option. Why? All parts from Europe NO parts from china. JJ tubes are from CZ. The chinese had once good tubes now all the factories seems to have closed. Russian tubes shouldn´t get on the market or should be banned... the word is getting more and more complicated. Good Luck Take Care!
I do enjoy your videos but as with many others i think that pedals should be compared alone so no buffer before or after from another pedal changing it's character
yes, but then it would be nice a comparison with a buffer before or after on each, just saying, like swapping the pedals in regards on the same place on a pedalboard. Looking forward to do some of your mods.@@MrJLobster
Thanks for your comment!@@ohmuseek4290 If you have a Bd 2 you would use it in the first position because that's where it best shows off its merits. If you have a vintage TS 9 or a SD 1on the other hand you wouldn´t place it in front of the row because their buffers are less effective. But after all it depends mostly on the things BEFORE the pedals... volume pot resistance, volume pedal, cable length, pickups types, tone capacitors, plugs and the listening habit of the player. In general I would say there is nothing much worse than it used to be anymore in the guitar word nowadays and often the rule seems to be the other way around - the better it get´s the worse it sounds... Sorry but I´m an old guy and what you may define as vintage was once brand new in my life and we used it without thinking and it was terrific as it was... We played noisy low output fender pickups through inferior cables corroded plugs into a once new and now crappy buffered 1981 SD 1 pedal into a JCM800 with totally unmatched output tubes into ear piercing G12m75 speakers and where thrilled about what we could do with this things... Things have changed - so Rock On!
@@ohmuseek4290 I'll leave that to you to find out ;-) These are not too serious modifications that could no longer be undone. Give it a try and post a video of it. What can happen apart from real experience? So good luck!
the controllable range of the pot will be a little more restricted but with the ability to dive somewhat deeper into the hall of church....ess..ess...es..es..
@MrJLobster I am thinking of adding an on-off switch or a latching stomp switch so I can choose between the unmodified and modified sounds. How should I do it? Do I just attach a wire to one of the two pins on the PCB (where you placed the resistor), that wire goes into one of the two pins of the switch, and on the other pin I add the resistor which ultimately goes into the other pin on the PCB? Does that sound right, do I have to do something differently?
@@Gekiko7167 - That's exactly how I would do it yes. I would recommend to add a small blub of hot glue to the resistor and the lead preventing it from rattling around. Good Luck!
The trem arm has a 10-32 thread which has to be one of the worst threads you could have used on this application. 1/4-24 would have been a much better choice. The tolerance is like night and day, however, a threaded joint should really not be used here. Should be a straight shaft with a threaded tapered friction devicethat allows for rotation of the bar while holding it in one position. A thread will not do this.
I have built a complete audio hifi system using tubes from pre-amp to power output from scratch, VU monitor and everything. I got 2500 hours out of JJ EL34 standard version tubes even if I push them hard with dynamic voltage controlled power supply I built myself ( it is an external perfect DC stabilized adjustable supply from 200-500 volt that also is audio controlled which can be externally triggerend and apply power when something is playing, so at idle the power amp has it´s built in supply that works around 250V so it saves tube life when nothing is playing, and with the external supply I can crank up the power enough to redplate the tubes for maximum power, good stuff
@@songshineoriginalmusic thank you :) I really should do some videos on this stuff sometime but I been really slow with that part for many reasons. But I really like this system and those who see and hear it in real life is very impressed too. I always loved tubes
Thanks! ..thought about that but came up with an other solution. I think it would have been possible. However the dimentions of the pegheads are not identical as I found out. In particular the position of the saddle to the tuners differs quiet a bit.
Strangely enough that is pretty much what I did. I found an old set of SA's with 2 passive A25k tone pots, and switched one out to the SPC, so in effect I have what you created, the other tone is still passive. The cap value is slightly different but within the range (0.099 uF as tested, 0.01 uF nominal). I did not use a 33k resistor which you bridged between lug 1 and 3 on your pot (if I am seeing your positioning correctly). Maybe you can explain the purpose of that connection.
Thanks! Yes - the same transformers. Use the image at 3:09 if you want to implement the tube rectification circuit. The schematic has changed somewhat since then - you find it on the tube town website - so you have to consider some thinkering... Good luck!
9 месяцев назад
Cant you just install a dummy tone pot in parallel to the whole circuit?
....does n´t do much to the added hiss of the boost circuit and it unnecessary use some power away from your battery. It alters the tone somewhat even if the circuit is in the neutral position and there is no room inside to add another pot that was mend to be used... If you don´t like what the boost circuit does and you never ever use it - get rid of it - you will not regret it.
Its a long time ago for me. seems that I´ve done that but it had not worked in my case. So feel free to use this method if you want to be shure that it works... Good Luck!
