Did the stud replacement solve the idle issue. Ive got my nieces to look at for a rough idle. Its been to a few garages etc but its landed on my lap now.
Hey, mate, do you know off hand what product this might be equivalent to in the States on Amazon? I see some of the product you used but all in like gallon size and it's super expensive. Thanks!
Good video. One issue: You say that you don't need to take the bumper off to get the gearbox out. But, in the end, you discover it's necessary to remove the chassis member (whose bolts are already shown partly removed earlier in the video). It looks like these bolt heads on the front side of the cross member are only accessible once the bumper is removed anyway? (the nuts are welded onto the chassis member and are not turn-able from the rear side).
Hi, the strimmer looks to be the same as mine, a B&Q FPGTP25. Very informative. The spark on mine seems to be quite weak, it's there but only feint, would you happen to know where I can get a spare ignition coil that doesn't cost the earth - either original or compatible, as long as it works.
last week I changed mine, the filter had been put on by Hulk at the dealer, I had to use the "chain tool" with only one hand since there's no space for both around the filter, really a lot of swearing was involved PS: did you try to prefill the filter? I didn't and a friend of mine told me it could hurt the engine, but the filter is horizontal duh
In the middle of my Alternator on my 997.1...Regulator bosch £35....That's the Alternator sorted...Deflection pulley (Long bolt on right of Alternator fixing point)...£37 Both items on ebay...
@vintagesteelgarage .....Watching your video as I'm typing this....I bought my 997 roughly 8 years ago I have a invoice there for Alternator supply/Fit.....£620....😢😢😢 Unbelievable price....Regulator gone on mine Cheapest Bosch online (Ebay)...£35..👍👍👍 I also bought water pipe connection just to the right of the Alternator they made of plastic and are prone to snapping ( Yes I snapped mine 🤦♂️)...But online only £7.50 Plus 2 new jubilee clips sorted...👍
@@mikefranky see the next episode of the rebuild I snapped mine too (I swear I only looked at it!!) upgraded to an aluminium one for £25. Wow. £600 8 years ago. I'm so out of touch with prices. I'd have guessed £500 at today's prices.
Correct yes. Avoids potentially damaging the gaiter on the ball joint. Having said that undoing the inner boltnmeans you need to redo the wheel alignment and potentially the inner bolt could be siezed. I was going to redo the alignment and I knew the inner bolt wasn't seized. So both options have pros and cons
@@vintagesteelgarage Thanks for the reply - can I ask why the wheel alignment needs adjusting? I'm probably missing something but toe is adjusted via the steering arm and camber/castor via the top strut mount - neither of which are changed. The inner arm is a fixed, non adjustable pivot, is it not?
@@Otto-AutoPilot the inner bolt is offset so will affect camber. Of course you can mark the bolt to put back in same place. I have had these seized and had to cut out on the rear of the 911 and front of 986.
With access to a lathe take some M8 bolts, drill a hole exactly down the centre of the bolt all the way through, say M6. If you have some threads before the top of the stud wind on the bolt with the hole in. If the broken stud is proud of the surface and you have some threads on it use a nut as an adapter for your bolt. This will now act as a guide for the drill to make a concentric hole for an extractor to be wound in, etc.
Did you say remove cats! My 996 has 200c race cats and a sports exhaust and it sounds amazing under load but surprisingly ‘normal’ just cruising. Can’t wait for more content!
Great Keyhole surgery, thats a lot of rotating parts you don't need to worry about for a long time.Excellent saving over garage charges. It makes a car feel so much better to drive when you get rid of those annoying little noises. 👍
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It makes sense to repair parts if possible, e.g. ball joints instead of full wishbone. It's possible to measure a faulty bearing and find a new one of the correct size and type and do a repair much more economically as you showed on your video. Great saving compared with the manufacturers price,very usefull and informative video. 👍
@@andrewhenderson3914 yes true. If you can get the component part and have the tools and knowledge you can save a fortune. Also bucks the trend to our throw away culture of today.
@@vintagesteelgarage Totally agree, the manufacturers make "assembly's " now , and then have a very good profit margin when they sell a replacement part. It's a throw away culture, don't repair-get a new one is the way now. I will always try to repair if possible, it's better for the environment and my wallet 😁
Would you be able to answer a question I have, I recently brought a petrol strimmer from SGS engineering and I had to return as the unit was too heavy for me to use. When SGS received the item back after I confirmed I did not use it try to, they are saying as there was fuel in the priming bulb they can not expect my return as they are saying I put fuel in it, and attempted to start it, which I did not. My question is would there still be fuel in this bulb left over from SGS testing this unit as surely they would have tested it. I would really appreciate your thoughts why there is fuel in the priming bulb. Many thanks.
Great advice! take a break, have a brew and try again. love it when new parts arrive, I'm awaiting a set of coffin arms, although I get some funny looks from the War Office when they are all lined up on the dining room table lol
Great video..that was tight but good job done..I've been doing my own car for 10yrs and always use original parts new..as I've learned that is best for my car.
@@andrewhenderson3914 thanks buddy. Its certainly a feat of engineering that they fitted it all in. Next episode is more fun with shiny stuff going back in.
I really enjoy watching you work on the 996, you gave me inspiration to install a short shifter on my own car. That said, I don’t think I will be attempting what you did In this video. I don’t mind turning spanner’s but not to this extent!!! Keep the 996 content coming.
@@krzysztofkawalec9937 yes was easy to strip my problem was I couldnt find detials for torque setting to crank and con rods. So in the end bought a rebuilt short motor
nice explanation, do you know where i could get the small pipe that comes out of the actuator (inlet pipe i think its called) my one seems to be melted on from over the years. 😅
Great video, I admire your perseverance and the way you find a way to get the job done. Is a large box of elastaplast included in the Porsche tool kit 😊 It is an awesome car though and probably worth the pain.
Its great to see some more Porsche content, especially the 996 C4S - such a good looking car. I'm hoping to make the move from a 986 to a 996 C4S soon, seen some higher mileage examples at sensible price ranges and I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty. It's good to see you can keep the costs down by doing a little research and completing the work yourself. Keep up the good work, I find myself looking forward to your videos.
@@vintagesteelgarageanother question, my filler is separated right where the rigid and the flexible part meets. The rigid part is 39mm ish diameter but the rigid is way bigger, is it the same for you?
@Stefan020 oh I see. Mine spilt before that where just one flex is close to the air filter filler neck. Where the neck lifts out of the air filter. Then there was about 100mm of rigid at 39 mm before the flex. Just a thought you can get stepped silicone hoses. Maybe 39mm one end and then a tight fit ove the larger flexible section. Preferable to replacing. I'm told it's s hassles to replace.
However if you don't enjoy taking your dash apart several times if you use LEDs in your gauge cluster and they fail, durability is pretty damn important. LOL
So all that large black tube does is allow you to fill the oil from the trunk. Why not just cut that , and splice a high quality rubber hose over the cut, secure with two clamps? if the black molded plastic tube won't hold the pressure of some hose clamps, just put a tube/bushing under it that will help support it. This job should take 10 minutes not 5 hours.
Great job. I will be doing this job tomorrow. As you mentioned on another comment that you did not calibrate the actuator and its all fine yes. Does the car run without any issues now? Thanks in advance.
Yes correct did not calibrate. Just disconnected module. Rebuilt the turbo and reconnected. Car ran great Nd no oil blow by into inlet. Car sold now. But not for that reason just wanted a change.
Thanks for the quick reply. I will tackle this tomorrow by my self. Now my fear is if those 3 main bolts snaps. From today i will spray them with some wd40 hopefully that should help. Thanks again and again very informative video.
great vid, very informative, thank you! I've had one of these kits sitting on a shelf for a year or two now, going to attempt it on my 987 this weekend i think, I assumed it was much harder than this. Good tip on flipping for RHD cars too I might have missed that if you didn't say
I've been having trouble with my spear and Jackson spjgt26 petrol strimmer. It starts up but give it some gas as you say it bogs down. I've put a new carburettor on it new plug set the gap new air filter new fule pipes and filter fresh petrol. And the thing still bogs down. I've set the mixture screw can you or any one help me before I throw it over my neighbour fence.
My problem is the engine won't turn over with the pull string. It near breaks your fingers. It's fine when the plug is out no problem. It's weird. It's like the compression is massive.
