Hey there. Autozone doesnt have a fuel pump under $250 - I followed the link on Amazon and looks like the one you installed is like $65. Is it still running? Id rather spend the $65 if it still works!!!
Good video however I need to point out a couple things. You didn't purge your blue line which is also full of atmospheric air before charging. Also, I believe most newer vehicles use a TXV instead of an orifice which would need to be charged by sub cool instead of superheat. It's important to keep an eye on the superheat but a TXV system is supposed to be charged by sub cool. Maybe you can make a video showing that method? I know but a lot of other people may not.
ALWAYS put a jack stand under the vehicle, not just a floor jack. If the floor jack blows a seal the vehicle will drop suddenly, potentially causing serious injury.
Ник, нужна помощь!!! При установке распределительного вала какие есть нюансы? Кулачки вала не дают полностью лечь в постель, около 1-1,5 мм. Так должно быть?
I'm a 60 year old female first time doing this, didn't know what I was doing but I did it, without removing the fan. I'm watching this video after the fact I already replaced it. I know now how easy how it is to put it back together. I had a hard time doing it different, I also gotten my knuckles and change cut up. And not was I bruised on my arms, but the job got done
Hey thanks for the video. I have a question about the 150,000 rule -- where did you get the info from, and it is a hard and fast rule? My Explorer just hit 159,000 so do you think I'm in that grey area for an fluid change or do you think it is a bad idea? What about if it got a fluid change once, like 100,000 miles ago? I was thinking of dropping the pan and cleaning it, then changing filter. Do you think the risk could be mitiated if I just do a drain and swap? What if I try to drain and swap 1/2 or 1/3 of the fluid? Any of your thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!
@@iamdjnam Hi, right yeah that was the plan. But in the video he mentioned that after 150,000 miles enough friction inducing material could have seeped off the transmission and into the fluid that by draining the fluid you will lose that stuff (which maintains proper pressing) and could have a malfunctioning transmission. So I'm asking how strict that 150k rule is and whether 160k is close enough.
After installing a transmission that was rebuilt if there were codes before for it is there a reset/relearn procedure that we can do to clear the stored code(s)? I have a scanner that not showing any codes but the light isn't showing green its showing yellow(caution). It drives like new with no CEL/SES light just the scanner shows yellow so I can not pass inspection but if green I'm good. Please help.
Thanks a bunch for showing how to replace the whole assembly. We just bought a 2002 Explorer and the turn signals won’t cancel on their own after completing a turn so this should fix my issue!
I have an 02 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0. I wanted to know if I could swap my old speedometer/instrument cluster out for the same one that you have in this video? Will it work properly? 🤔
Man I wish you lived in NC! You would def be ny mechanic, you make everything look so easy! Plus I'm sure that I could learn alot from you on vehicles. Thanks for all of your hard, detailed, work/videos. 🐐
I opened the bleeder. I dont want to force the fluid back through the system. I came here looking for how to grease the caliper slides, not seeing how yet
Nick... Thanks so much for this video! You have gone above and beyond! I have to do this job this fall. You have taken all the guesswork out of it and I now feel confident to proceed!
U never did the 90° for the cam cap bolt so is it okay to reuse them Edit: you said your putting the cam cap bolts in your baggie so I'm assuming they must be reusable
I managed to use two metal,screws and lock down the door into place. Very happy with my heater and AC performance. I live in Southern California so the weather is not that extreme in the low or high end of the thermometer. No need to have the door open and close
