Hi, I’m Rene, a 60 something year old Sailor Wanna-B who still has his hair, original teeth and sense of humor… I’m now starting my second childhood, going after my dreams while I still have all three.
#1 on my Bucket List is to ultimately build a Live-Aboard -Yacht before I’m 70 that I can enjoy with my grandchildren, and for extended trips like the Great Loop in the second half of my life.
Boat building is just a “hobby” I’ve developed over the last few years. This channel will be dedicated to: 1. My current build (A 32×11′ Chesapeake Bat Deadrise Cabin Cruiser) 2. Traveling the world on board and off with my Co-Cpt’n. 3. Becoming Self-sufficient and helping others to do so. 4. and enjoying life every step of the way.
In the meantime I’m looking forward to building my boat and meeting lots of great folks just like you.
Once I rough sand it I'm going to put a layer of epoxy and q-cells. Then sand again and paint. May be a while as I'm spending most of my time looking for a new house. Might just finish it there.
Watch for air pockets my friend, it looks like you may have a few there and these create weak spot and less adhesion. Apply resin with a brush (liberally) and get a fin/fibreglass roller to roll the resin thru the glass (dont press too hard though). Good luck, keen to see the finish!
I got more air pockets than I wanted. I'm going to inject under them with resin this afternoon so I can sand them down. I learned how NOT to do it next time. Learning experiences all the time. :-)
@@mydreamboatproject The learning is half the fun! My first boat was a 30 ft power cruiser...memories, well at least I know my poor shoulders remember it :)
They may be hot but, but getting some of those Tyvek white onesies may be worth while.... especially during sanding. My son Leif calls coveralls onesies. I have been trying to get him to wear them more often.
That idea works great - one suggestion is to use a "few" 1/8" dowels as pins (say 5 in a 2x1x2 pattern) . Makes it a LOT stronger and no movement when drying or under stress. Even toothpicks will work.
So, because you can't remove the riving knife, you wouldn't be able to make a crosscut sled. Hmmm. Don't know if I like that. But for ripping this would be a good little saw.
A little smaller than the width of two wedges. Remember you're pushing the wedges in towards each other so the space doesn't really matter as long as the wedges are large enough to make a very tight fit.
Thanks for sharing. I am building a different boat. But the wooden knobs on the outrigger is a great idea. Wood on wood looks great and does not grind as metal on wood would. The size also means its easy to fasten without tools. And its easier to make some sort of locking mechanism so they wont turn. Thanks
I would say as long as you keep it dry, and treat it with bleach It should be good and stay solid until you’re ready to finish it I would not use kills. It seems like it would be a little much maybe as a last resort if bleach siding work
Roy your an inspiration for sure. I love the Diana rose and the new mini your building. I love water and nature and want to be able to live nomadic in a boat with my wife when the kids leave the nest and I have dreamed of building a house boat for a while. Watching your videos truly makes me believe that I can do it myself. I have a lot of woodworking tools, but no boat making tools. I was wondering if you knew of any specialty tool that was hard starting out or anything that you needed that the average woodworker would not have. I am by no means a Carpenter, more of a diyer/handyman but what was the most difficult thing about learning how to make boats from being a carpenter?
Hey Rene - I wouldnt mix the resins. 2:1 ratio is a lot stiffer than a 5:1 mix. The latter is preferred for boat building as it gives more flexibility in the when it takes the load. Where as the former is stronger but more brittle. As for measuring your mixtures - I found using a kitchen scale worked best. Ie 100g resin and then add 20g of hardner
Thanks, I went out and purchased the resin measuring cups that you can see through so that would work fine. I'll Use the West system and leave the other stuff for a smaller project by itself.
Hey Reine, I'm working on a Spira Tillamook right now and built a Glen L drifter in the winter in Utah. The best thing I found to do is put a space heater or two under the boat after epoxy work and leave it over night or at least for a few hours. Helps get the epoxy to go off faster. Heat will radiate through the hull for your fiberglass lamination too. I left mine on before and after the I did the fiberglass and it helped out quite a bit.
it is pronounce paan-ga. I was designed by Yamaha as part world bank project to help fishermen in the developing world. It was named after the Swahili word for machete. Anyway, boat looks gorgeous.
Absolute brilliant sinplicity. I wanted to add a rudder to this Intex Seahawk 4 w homemade lantern sail & thought of copying the rudder on my 81 Hobie Cat 16 but those things are really complex. This is perfect & I haveveverything at hand already except spar varnish. Thank, You saved the day. Great to the point video. Greetings from Texas. ling Tor.
The house I have been living since 2016 was built in 1920. It is semi attached. On the side that it is attached my second floor joists and my neighbors second floor Joists share a bearing over a common party wall .the party wall is 2x4 with 2 top plates . Over that the 2 joists are not lap spliced . Instead the joists from each house line in the same plane . I didn’t take enough pictures when the Sheetrock was open in 2016 . Now I am researching what may be happening at that splice .. your video brings me a step closer !
