Where do you find inconel pipe for one off jobs? Any time I talk to anyone about metal they don't have much interest in selling bits and pieces. I wish my welds were that consistent. What rod are you using?
Are you aware another channel, something like arccaptain-weld has reposted this video and has loads of views? Did they get your permission? They do credit you, but most of the lazy Shorts viewers are ignoring the description and commenting there like that channel is where this comes from.
Freakin beautiful…… man I wish I I’ll never claim to be a welder but atm this very moment I’m teaching myself how to weld aluminum. What I have accomplished would have a real welder laughing on the ground. Lmao
Where did you get the ball that can handle the pressure from the press? I make collectors as well and have a cone that I use but occasionally it bottoms out on the inside of the collector.
@@RascoeGarage I’ve been using cones for a wheel balancer too. The ones I bought a cheap China ones and aren’t hardened. So they deform and get stuck etc. This is a hardened 2.5” ball bearing I got off Amazon for like $40. Works amazing and doesn’t deform.
Nice work! Wondering who runs an LS on a dyno with log type headers as they're not exactly conducive to higher HP applications where the least restrictive flow is sought and the lack of EGT bungs for sensors is rather odd as well. Any insight you can share on that?
Great prep and tools Cory. Are the “failed” pieces that have a bunch of runs on them that you show at the beginning also Inconel or are they 304 or 321? If they are also inconel how much better life are you getting from the inconel? Just subscribed!
Thanks! The old parts are also inconel, stainless will not hold up to the heat that these manifolds see. I haven’t seen a set of stainless manifolds at that company before even when I worked there 10 years ago. I have had to repair manifolds that had stainless v bands on them and the v bands were deteriorating extremely fast compared to the inconel.
These run on test engines in a dyno lab and see upwards of 1200°c egt’s. Stainless would fall apart extremely fast. Even that temp rating is beyond what inconel is rated for and these manifolds will eventually fail and will need repaired like the others I showed in the video.
One way to verify if it's the level is to flip the level over and check it because the high spot or low spot one way will be the opposite the other way if it's the level.
Great stuff man, use some door edge gaurd/rubber where you cut the notch out for all those wires. The vibration will eat right through that oem plastic and into the wires over time. EDIT: Just saw you used it on the radiator lol
I didn’t put any thing on areas that will be getting painted after it leaves here. And that harness is doubled loomed too lol. But totally agree with you
Yes of course, gotta repaint but I'd still put that edge stuff even though it's double loomed. It being a drift or high power car and all. Wish I had your skills bro. I'm working on my Chaser in my channel but not as much weld fabrication, only because I lack skills and health to go to school for it or whatever. Anyway thanks for sharing 🤙🏽
@@TheSocialPraxis this won’t be hitting the track anytime soon. We will be taking it to the dyno, then the owner will be painting the bare metal stuff right away as he works at a body shop. If I was doing all the final fit and finish work it would for sure be leaving with stuff there for added protection.
It’s for back purging so you can shield the back side of the weld too, since stainless is a reactive metal, you have to shield the back side or you can weaken the weld.
