Hi Everyone and thanks for looking at my channel. I am a woodworker, sculptor and sign carver. I love working with my hands and creating new stuff. on this channel I am trying to share my passion for woodworking by doing demonstrations and tutorials. lots more videos to come I hope, I try and add a new one every couple of week so stay tuned
Hi Johnathon, First time seeing you videos. Very nice, thank you for your tips and tricks. Small question without filming about how long would it take you to finish this tray? Ty, have a good day and keep the videos coming.
@chucksimpson5160 hi there and thanks for the complement. Trays like this are relatively straightforward and easy to do if you have the right tools. If I was doing it all with hand tools barring sanding, probably eight hours. Using a router or angle grinder, maybe two hours? Add in a day for the finish to dry. But I could potentially do 4 or more in a day and same amount of time for drying. Hope that answers your question
Very awesome!!! Most of the fruit timber have really beautiful texture, but all my fruit wood (including cherry) have bunch of cracks ((((( Cherry is one of the worst about cracks. So far I only managed to get some walnut dried out completely without cracks.
@Dmitriy-SDI fruit timber is also my favorite and it definitely can crack! I found a few ways to reduce this, first I seal both ends of the log and let it season for at least two years. When I start to carve either cherry or apple timber, I either put it in a plastic bag when I'm not carving it or spray a cheap varnish on it to reduce the moisture loss which causes cracking. Unfortunately, this doesn't work 100% of the time but it does help alot. My least.favorite is oak, that keeps cracking and twisting for around 100 years in a unsealed form
@@JohnathonWhittaker ooh, yes - oak is the worst about it definitely, I have already had problems with the plates I thought were finished and ready O_o
Beautiful!! thanks for idea, I've been looking for big pieces of something better than pine to do something similar, but with the paint even pine looks awesome!
@user-jr7rx9fg6c hard wood definitely gives a different look, it does raise costs considerably though so its good to know your client base. Working on pine though is a great way to practice techniques and styles. Give it a try and I hope your succesful with it. If you look at my Instagram, you will see a whole lot.more examples
@user-jr7rx9fg6c I cover both sides with the pva, and leave the edge exposed so the water goes from outside the wood, rather than inside. It's slower, but the wood.survives better
@user-jr7rx9fg6c thank you, I use a two part super glue, it's a cyanoacrylate glue with an accelerator. You add the glue, spray on the accelerator and it hardens instantly. Also sandable after. Not.sure where your.located, will add a local link so you can see the product. Also if you look at some of my other videos, I talk about it more woodworksupply.co.uk/products/copy-of-starbond-ca-glue-black-medium-ke-150-2oz-56-7g
This Vid is 5 years old. My version looks NOTHING like this. Please do an update. How do I make the interface look like yours. What version are you using? Thanks in advance.
Really glad I could share this for you. My best advice would be to just go for it, have a rough idea of what you want in your mind and be happy for the piece to evolve while your working on it! Happy carving
I transfer my patterns that way but I use regular acetone that nail techs use to take nail polish off with. I'm not sure what kind of thinner that is but it seems to work very well. Regular acetone works but not quite that well. Anyway, this is a great video. Very helpful for my next project! Thank you for sharing!
I use a product called cellulose thinners which is also acetone based. Bit more industrial than regular acetone although that still works well. Glad you found the video useful and thanks for the lovely comment
thank you and i really like to add this effect onto plaques. really makes them just a little different. go for it and keep the cuts small. I cut off more than one letter practicing this technique :)
Great video but I have a question. Why bother to burn the sign when you are just going to paint over it? Having watched several of these videos, I have noticed other carvers do the same thing and I have always wondered why.
After I've fim8shed carving out the design, I always give a finish of some kind. Could be a spray on varnish, oil or even resin. Helps protect the wood and highlights the natural wood characteristics
Something wrong with using a CNC router? You are using a printer to print it out, why not do the same on a CNC program and hit start directly onto the wood
This Is more for people who want a more hands on experience and potentially can't afford an expensive cnc set up. I find this method to be very versatile, doesn't take up much room and can achieve much better results than alot of the lower cost cncs. As for printing, that's just easier for me to layout and design something immediately for clients, there are quite a few people who do the text free hand with excellent results. Different ways for different people. I often just use a mallet and gouges, also gives me the result I want although I still print it🙂
Nice vocal timbre and pace. Calm but not sleepy , succint, easy to learn because of excellent presentation. Knowledge of content. Subscribe. I just did.
I am using the smaller 1/8th shank router bits. I started with a 10 degree v-groove to define the letters and image. I cleaned out all the waste material with a 1.5mm spiral bit so it was all nice and clean. Thwse bits are easy to find on amazon and are really inexpensive.
Great little video. When you first said something about the clogging, My first thought was... Softwood, Pine.. Checks out. How long did they last you in the end? (Asking 4 years later) I absolutely hate working with softwood -.-
Still using them, cleaning them out is massively important, I am not a believer in using flame to get rid of clogging, I feel that would either immediately or eventually compromise the metal. I just use a wire brush, sometimes soak them in either diesel or cellulose thinners and they are practically brand new. The only thing that inhabe replaced is therenisna small rubber washer between the head and the spindle that eventually goes but they cost next to nothing and very easily replaceable
My grip problem was harder to fix. My superjaw lost its ability to lock at any foot pedal position. It would only catch if the pedal were pushed all the way and sometimes took a few pumps. This caused loss of grip control. I broke delicate items and could not grip others tightly enough. Curiously, I found it worked fine when it was upside down. I deduced the spring on the lock plate was too weak. Since gravity assist was enough to make it work, I added a light spring to pull the lock bar up and it now works like new.
Did you check for sawdust build up in the mechanism? I get that same problem too sometimes, that sawdust just gets jammed in the and I need to scrub it out as it blocks the full motion of the locking mechanism
