Snorriana Grande

That's a tough one! But i would pick the F1. That's only because the F3 is mostly battery operated, except for the 1/60 mechanical shutter. If it's between the F3 and the F2, I'll get the F2. The NEW F1 is only part battery-operated. Shutter-wise, the battery is used to function 1/60-8s exposures. This means that even if your battery dies or if the camera's electronics fails on you, you can access its mechanical shutter from 1/90s - 1/2000s, which honestly works in most scenarios. Bulb is also available mechanically if you do need slower speeds. The older F1 models like the F1 or F1-N, are mechanically controlled when it comes to their shutter, so they're also great options. For lenses, the Nikons have amazing, easily-accessible and cheap glass. The AIS f1.4 or 1.2 is great. But Canon FD lenses are great as well. Personally i'd go for the option that relies more heavily mechanics in the event of sudden failure or general wear & tear. That said, both are great cameras!!! I'd own both if I could!

@@thehealthpotions ah man, thanks for taking the time to give such in-depth answer! Helps me a lot to make up my mind. Appreciate it!

@@YannickGalaske I have an F3, it's a tank & a legend! I would not worry about the batteries, almost never let you down and spares are easy to carry and come by. If you are worried about batteries you would never buy a digital camera as they're 100% battery dependant, if you think about it? That said, the old Canon F system is a great system to buy into, like Nikon, Olympus and Pentax + Minolta were. 😊

Having used a friend's F3 back in the 90s I cannot remember to have ever got such a gorgeous TANK feeling that I got when I put my hands on a New F-1 for the first time, and always since (I have some New F-1s and I love them). Touching the smooth but solid film advance lever makes you think you could also arm the camera using a pair of pliers, without risk to damage anything :-D. The modular design including variable metering methods is a very nice idea. So as for the body: I'd definitely prefer the rock-solid New F-1. But (!) - sorry to say: I have never heard about Nikon Ai lenses having those bearing problems you can read about concerning some advanced Canon FD lenses. It's sad, but it seems to be a real FD problem today (and the reason because I keep using my Contax RTS II and Zeiss lenses mostly). Two details: The New F-1 is not too comfortable when you work in the dark. The illumination feature is halfway nice, but it doesn't work with the AE finder. And: If the camera is loaded with film, the (very good) AE Motor Drive FN can only be attached to the body when you get into a darkroom - because a small covering on the camera's bottom has to be removed before attaching the motor drive, to allow its motor rewind function to work. With the Power Winder FN, you avoid this problem. But: To avoid any trouble, make sure that you get a New F-1 body with/including those three small round coverings at its bottom.

Hi! So I'm not sure how much you know about film, but here's what you'll need to start: 1. Camera 2. 120 Film Next, check for any mechanical issues it might have before you load any film. Loading: 1. Open the back of the camera by twisting the latch at the bottom of the camera 2. Ensure there's an empty film spool at the top roller. If there isn't, the empty one is usually on the bottom roller, so just pull on the side latches and take it out, then insert it on the top roller. 3. Remove 120 film packaging 4. Insert into bottom roller 5. Slide the sleeve of the film THROUGH the smaller film roller/sliders 6. Insert sleeve of film onto top roller 7. Start winding film until you see the start arrow on the film match up to the arrow on the camera 8. Once the arrows match up, close the back, and start winding 9. As you start rotating the film crank, you'll see the counter start to move BUT if it doesn't seem to move, don't continue cranking as you might not have loaded it correctly or the counter or mechanism might be spoilt. I loaded it incorrectly once, and ended up just cranking a fresh roll from start to end. For shooting, adjust the dials according to whatever light meter reading your light-meter shows. Light metering can be done through the apps from the app store. Might be easier to watch a tutorial on RU-vid, most rolleiflexes work the same for loading and usage.

A mix of my x-t20 and bmpcc! Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

I love his work!!