Just a family guy, doing things with Rotary Engines no one saw coming! If you like to build cars, and go racing we can enjoy these adventures together.
Is there a follow video on this? Would it have been possible to remove the nutserts so you wouldn't have to notch the frame rails and then just reinstall new ones? Thanks!
I believe in the build video of the chassis it has a follow up on everything finally installed and welded for the front. The nut certs can be removed and reinstalled, that’s definitely a way to do it for sure.
The bridge will help carry the RPM of the power band further. My previous only bridge port motor would hold power band til 9,400rpm, I’m hoping this setup will carry to around 10,500rmp
Interesting, I’ve never had that problem. I’ve seen side seal wear chop on irons before. Normally happens when people run the cutting edge of porting towards the water jacket, and the upper left corner of the ports also side seal will show extensive wear.
I would of thought when bumping the oil pressure up you would want to restrict the eshaft jet like 2-2.5 mm with a Weber jet and not make it same size . You restrict it so it builds pressure else where like for bigger bearing clearances . I used a factory fd rear reg as there good for 100 psi and just shim the front relief . Always good oil pressure in my experience but stuff like this happens and I’m glad you documented for others to see . Was googling why I have too much pressure and your vid came up .
A 2204 picoscope and rotkee pressure transducers do this and if you add amp clamp can do relative compression without removing plugs. Also add a differential pressure transducer and is best tool for any miniscule compression leakage on cooling system. Plus 100's more test you can normally do on a pico for electric diagnostic.
I like it. I've hodge-podged together something similar, a friend used a lathe to cut up an old spark plug and add 1/8"NPT threads. Then I thread in a 0-150psi pressure sensor, and run that sensor to the aftermarket ECU. The ECU can record the sensor pressure fast enough to see the individual pulses at cranking speed. But I really like seeing both pressure traces at once on your setup, that's really nice.
Weber set up Set timing with locked electric dizzy at 25 degrees leading 18 degrees Trailing using msd blaster coils with b8egv spark plugs Factory set of ngk leads to suit Rx7 Holly or carter fuel pump though holly Reg using a decent fuel filter set at 4 psi. When running For carb set float level correct stock webber carb. 42 mm chokes F7 tubes 200 main jets 120 correctors 65 idle jets .6 pump jet With a decent exhaust and that above set up will be spot on , will need a little work on mixtures , set round 12.5 afr at wot
Great vid good to see you posting more 👍..be good to see you doing drag and drives again , i ran a s413b in rx3 sedan jatco 3 speed 9.1 @145 26x8.5 back 10 years ago miss it big time.
All the old pro rotary engine builders used this tester. It went away with Windows 8 because of the low sales volume and W8 required a major software rewrite the source decided wasn’t worth it. I bought one back around 2011 or so. What software are you using with it? .
it’s more complicated than that. Which is why other tester’s only generate peak numbers rather than the full pressure graph. Again, which software are you using with ghis tester? .
@@janousekmike Certainly the DATAQ can be adapted to operate, use other computers than just a MS-Windows OS. On their site, they have their code available for use within Linux OS, which are very versatile, usable to acquire their data with DI-194RS/154RS data acquisition unit The site shows the code is written in C++, thus can be modified, customized for specific uses, needs. Am not aware of the base OS which any of the ECU-ECM-PCU use, nor their interface. However, they can be modified to work together within Your computer. My personal view from the videos with the Fuel Tech people, especially Anderson Dick, Luis, other engineers, development team, is that they would certainly have the knowledge to accomplish this task and among the most amenable, flexible, easy to work with too. My background includes advanced mathematics, physics, chemistry, engineering, research, development, design, verification, certification, testing, troubleshooting, problem solving certainly data acquisition, measurement systems and equipment, within electrical mechanical, electronics, mechanics, thus this specific measurement system is very appealing, precise, useful, helpful, beneficial, preferred. All The Best, Sincerely
I'm surprised you just did the large face port freehand, with no outline or guide marks? Wouldn't that create the chance of small variances between each port?
If someone has never ported a rotary or used a dermal before, I would absolutely recommend porting templates. Over the years of porting rotary engines I now use the engine casting, wear pattern, seal positions and feel which has worked great for me.
I worked at usps and they are horrible for busting people's stuff. Had my boss make me throw packages like footballs into a truck 1 time into a giant pile to unclog the conveyor system that was jammed an backed up. I heard glass an shit just breaking as the packages hit the back of the truck. Never felt so disgusted with a job ever. No care for people's belongings....
Rob Dahm is actually an ignorant amateur, novice, ignoramus, without proper mechanical, technical knowledge, expertise !! 😲 The Vargus Brothers, Michael [Mike] & John, are far more experienced, with more expertise. There are many other among other Puerto Ricans, Australians, New Zealanders too.
That thing is going to sound absolutely wild haha. I have also heard that you can gain a good amount of power from using an intercooler with methanol even though its not required. Lower IATs always help
@@janousekmike You 13B engine parts look to be well fabricated, prepared for Your higher power engine, use, intentions, purposes, goals. It is not clear to me from this video if these 13B engine parts, outer, center, rotor housings are fully, properly prepared, ported similarly to the turbo engine versions and which porting type they have. Some of my rotary engine knowledge comes from Mike & John Vargus, including some of Your videos and others too. 🤓 Mike, have been following Your channel, progress, builds since Your first participation within RMRW, thus have continued with interest since.😄 All The Best😊, Sincerely☺
Absolutely a blast to watch you hit a PB with your team man!! Mario the Prelude Legend! Loved hanging out with you man, always have time to relax with a couple of beers 🍻
still so strange that ur not even getting close to spec oil pressure with rpm, the jets should only decrease idle oil pressure, above 3k should be closer to 100psi with a fd oil system, either way, still lots of oil pressure.
Do you know about the thrust needle bearing can drop off the spacer when you remove the crankshaft pulley, especially if crankshaft moves back etc, also if spacer moves forward also when you reassemble when engine is horizontal position I'd take engine out and place vertical to reassemble the front, so thrust needle bearings are in correct place not worth risking an engine
Running fd rear oil pressuire reg in my fc with shimmed front reg and i get 110psi cold start 1500-2000 rpm coil start 50-55 1000rpm idle. something deff not right, 40psi cold at like 1600-1800 no good!, have a internal leak somewhere and only area it can is front cover!
I am currently rebuild my s5. I did a bunch of the oil mods since I have the machines to do so and the engine is apart. Anyways my motor also had low oil pressure at idle. I have the RB oil jets, front pellet delete, ported oil pump in front cover etc. Anyways I found that the o-ring on the front cover had got pinched (s5 has the teflon o ring and rubber o-ring) and also my oil pump was badly scarred. Problem is with the front cover is it flexes under high oil pressure and that oring takes a shit. Pineapple racing make s a washer you can replace the two washers with one solid and it takes up the area and get rid of the problem. I have also seen guy run the rx8 front cover gasket (just trim off the parts you dont need. Its steel so it helps in that department and dont need the o-ring. But you may also find the oil pump is pooched. Im hoping all my mods fix my same issue. good luck.
Really appreciate you sharing your experience. Hopefully my out come will help shed some light on cause and effect for future projects. It’s been a great test and learning process for sure.
Rich!! Hope all is well for you. At this point 20psi at idle might be the ticket on this rotary too. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve to at least mentally feel better, I sleep better at night lol.
Have you seen the racing beat adjustable rear oil pressure regulator I'd be fitting one of those Think there is X2 preset regulators Shim front to suit
You’re definitely on to something there, with the Eshaft modifications, I don’t think there’s anyway around it besides getting an adjustable regulator.
@@janousekmike Oil jet modification in crankshaft lowers oil pressure so you need the adjustable rear oil pressure regulator try giving racing beat a phone call think there is a write up on racing beat or Google it etc
