Hello there! I work on a farm/ranch in Kansas. I am very much a "shade tree" mechanic. Most of what I work on is Ford vehicles, and a variety of old farm machinery. I do other "exciting" things as well, but I spend the majority of my time wrenching on something. Do you like part numbers, and part sources? I put those in almost all my repair videos! My goal here is to empower you with the knowledge to fix things on your own. If I can do it, I promise you can too.
For legal purposes, I am not a certified mechanic, so my repair advice is just my personal opinion and experience. Also, none of my videos are to be construed as "child friendly". IF you attempt to do anything I do, you do so at your own risk, and accept all the consequences.
There are a TON of great videos on RU-vid, and I appreciate you investing your time in watching my content.
For business and general inquiries, contact me at: Lightmaster1776@protonmail.com I'll help you if I can!
Hey man I hear ya, taking that fan off sucks. I doubt you can get to that sensor without removing it though, skinny arms or not. There's just not enough room for tools with the fan on. Hmmm.......unless you remove the fan shroud, that *might* afford you access to the sensor through the fan blades, using an extension and socket. I'm assuming you're changing the sensor? If you're just trying to remove the connector, you might be able to without pulling the fan. I doubt it though, usually these connectors are on there pretty good. In my opinion it's just easier to remove the fan and fan shroud. Not so bad once you do it a dozen times lol
Way to much disconnecting I pulled my turbo cab on. I bent a 10 mm ratcheting wrench so I could get the bolts out of the turbo. Disconnected drivers side up pipe to get the passenger side exhaust pipe.
@@buldog7900 There are 3 wires. We replaced all 3, just because they were melted together. You may or may not have to replace that many, it just depends on the condition of the wires.
Hey since you still have the connector for the deleted egr can you tell me what wires attach to what part of the connector? I have to replace my connector after a mouse chewed the wires at the connector. Thank got a new pigtail but cannot tell what wires coming from the harness will attach to the new connector.
Absolutely! I made a video, which is way easier than me trying to explain via text what goes where and what it looks like. Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wljIsxU32c0.html Hope this helps!
I do, yes. The current Cummins number for the water pump belt is 3058383. The old Cummins number is 215536. On the 875 Versatile we just got, (same engine, just turbocharged), I had to replace all the belts. For the water pump, I used a Dayco 17448. The Dayco belts are a bit wide for the grooves, but they seem to work fine otherwise. Fan belt is a 178682 (Cummins), 24830 (Dayco), or TR2849 (Gates); if you were curious. Hope this helps.
@@Mighty-Quinn Thanks a lot, I got the tractor just recently but the belts just tossed on me and I couldn't read any numbers on them. I ordered a parts manual but it hasn't arrived yet. like your videos. I saw your tractor had a "custom" modification to make changing belts easier. Ala zip cut. I couldn't believe how much the hood weighs, they built these old machines with real steel and iron.
We are fixing to install this pump after we get a new pulley from Graingers. I'm going for a larger pulley so that larger variety of motors can be used. But I'm confused as how to drain the oil and how to put new oil into it. And how is the drive shaft lubricated.? Please help. Love this thing as it is solves a huge problem. I am looking at the front of the unit found at this part of the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XBQChaosV4g.html On the right side on the top is a small 1/4" sized hole. Do we fill the entire thing up there?
On the bottom of the RH plate (the one that says "Fig 88"), there is a small plug that you remove to drain the unit. On that same plate, above the drain plug I just mentioned, there is a larger plug that you remove to add oil. There should be a rounded, raised portion that says "oil here". You should remove this plug in addition to the drain plug when draining oil, as that allows air in to prevent a vacuum inside the pumpjack. The drive shaft is lubricated through oil (from the worm gears), and also grease (there should be a grease fitting on either end of the unit, on top). Don't add too much grease or you will blow out the shaft seals. 2-3 strokes is enough. Grease occasionally. The small plug on top of the LH plate (the one that says "made in USA") can be used for adding oil, but it's impractical. You want to use a 30W non-detergent oil in these pumpjacks. This oil is similar to air-compressor oil, so a store that sells air compressors or air tools should have it. Keep the oil level about even with the bottom threads on the fill plug.
I am trying to figure out how to run one using a 12vdc or 24 vdc electric motor. What RPM range is recommended and how many horse power would be needed. I am also looking for a replacement main pulley. Mine was broken during shipment. I'd like to get a larger pulley as well. Where do we get parts from?
We've used several types of motors over the years for these pumpjacks. An electric motor that's at least 1/3HP is more than enough, but we've used 1/4, 1/2, and even an 1-1/2HP motor. There was another well we had in service for a short time that used a small gas engine, so that's an option if you can get everything secured well. The vibration from a gas engine will likely move the unit around. Anyhow, the RPM range from the motors we have always used is around 1700. You can go a little faster or slower, but I wouldn't exceed 2000 RPM if you can keep from it. Not sure if that was "recommended", but we've never had issues because of speed. As for parts........you're on your own. I used to be able to get some from my local water well shop. They had a contact that was making new gears, but I was told that place went out of business. Since the pulley is a relatively simple piece, you can get it at a place like McMaster-Carr, or Grainger. They sell nice cast iron pulleys, like the original ones. Should be able to get whatever diameter you want.
@@Mighty-Quinn Thank you. That was very helpful information that will be used to develop a solar powered 12 to 24 vdc motor to run the pump I have two tread mill motors to use for that. And I have 2 gas motors that would produce less than 1,700 rpm, and a 110vac motor that I might be able to use now knowing the max rpm. A larger pulley could reduce the RPM and that might be easier on the entire rig.
Mine has zero blowby and it is 294k. You should do a relative compression test and or fuel injector graph to see if they are working. If you have blowby you need a new motor. You will see which cylinder has the least efficiency and that if one or more than on will be the culprit.
This did help a little, but I found out later my battery connections were loose. That was the primary cause of my problem. Otherwise, my "fix" is holding up just fine, so go ahead and "steal it". I can't imagine I'm the first or last guy to make custom hose adapters lol.
Bummer. Them clutches ain’t usually cheap. They generate a bunch of heat and might’ve just neutralized that loctite. We always used red loctite and big fender washer big lock washer 😅 Good luck G
Thanks brother! That's exactly what was wrong with my 2000 F250 7.3. Now maybe you can tell me why I am depending on a 24 year old pickup to pull trailers. Other than I don't want to give those bastards a lot of money for a plastic new truck.
I felt that removing the hinged side was easier, that way I could access everything from one side. Also, if we're being honest, I didn't realize I took them off backwards until I had the tank out.
On the hydrostatic drive mowers, there are two levers at the front of each drive motor that you move down to put each drive in neutral; that way you can roll the machine around without issue. However, you have an 1142, which looks like a chain drive mower; and I have no idea if releasing the transmission(s) is the same or similar process. Somebody else asked me a similar question awhile back, but I don't think he ever said how he got the trans. drives in neutral.
If you are looking for a parts manual, then you'll want to go here: www.rottmansales.com/parts/ingersoll-case/ If you're looking for an operator's manual.......that's going to be tough. The old Eastman Industries website used to have downloadable operator manuals, but that website doesn't work anymore. You might try here: www.caseingersollparts.com/store/c1/CASE_AG_%2F_CONSTRUCTION.html and see if they have one. Otherwise, try looking on Ebay; outside of that, I'm afraid I can't help you. Sorry.
Yes, it did come with air conditioning. However, that system was extremely problematic, overly complicated, and worked poorly when it worked at all. This all in one unit is much simpler, easier, and more effective.
The series 2 tractors had a different system than series 1 tractors. The vents and controls were integrated into the cab ceiling, and I believe the condeser was placed at the front of the machine where the radiator is at. Series 1 Versatiles had air conditioning as an afterthought, it was standard (and better) on the series 2.
Scrub your boots every couple of weeks with saddle soap, let them dry, then apply a conditioning cream or oil. It isn’t hard to care for leather boots and it will make them last for years. You should go through a couple of resoles before the uppers wear out.
Yeah, I noticed that too. I assume the previous owner had it set up that way so he could back out of mud, with more positive traction. I sincerely doubt we ever cut when it's muddy in the field, but I'm just gonna leave the tires as they are. Swapping them looks like a lot of work that I don't want to do, haha.
we used o have a 1440 and later a 1488 we ran a 30 foot head on the1488 you need to make sure the bearings on the arms that run the sieves are good if one side has a bearing go out it will cause it to shake the screens apart .another thing the collars that couple the drive shaft to the planetary drive have splines in them they get wore out and have to be replaced . other than that we had good luck with them.
We ran one of these for many years here in the UK. Best combine ever. A problem we had was broken sieves. Turned out worn bushings in the shaker arms was the cause. Another problem was leaks in the bottom of the grain tank where it had rusted away. Then a loss of engine power. That was the gauze filter in the fuel tank getting clogged with sludge.
Looking at picking one of these up that doesn't crank over for $300 - thinking key switch or safety switch, should be able to bypass them and make it run. Thank you for this video!
Glad you liked the video. Don't forget to check your grounds! I know that seems a silly thing to say, but I recently discovered a loose ground on mine, and that had been causing starting issues since last season. It was the one wire I never thought to check, by the hydraulic tank. Tightened it up, and everything works much better now. Best of luck to ya, $300 is a steal for one of these. They do a great job if they're working right.
To be honest, I'm not sure how to tell what concaves and grates are in it. As in, I don't know what part of them to look at. I assume it has the small wire concaves, as the previous owner cut wheat with this machine. That assumption is based on the setting chart in the operator's manual. Not sure if that's the right aspect of the concave to look at. Good to know about the brakes and the header. I figured the header must've worked fine, or the previous owner would not have used it. I was wondering if there were some compatibility issues with this platform compared to a factory header. It's nice to hear it will work fine with other models. We finished cutting rye on Sunday, and after a couple adjustments, it worked great. We ended up setting it on position "1" rather than the recommended position "2". Is that a sign of worn concaves or something else? We were told rye was hard to thresh, and that a tighter setting might be necessary; but I don't know if that or (potentially) worn parts was a bigger factor. Any advice you have would be much appreciated. Thanks for the information!
@@Mighty-Quinn If you threshed rye and it worked it must have small wire concaves. You can stick your finger through the large wire concaves but not the small wire. We would set the concaves for Zero clearance to thresh wheat. Pull them up until the rotor starts ticking on the concaves then back it down just a bit. Then reset the gauge to zero. Glad it worked for you.
I've done everything I can externally to try and get this engine to run correctly. At this point, it would be more cost effective to just tear it apart and rebuild it. I'm certain there is a severe internal failure on this engine. Not sure if it's a bent valve, collapsed lifter, cracked piston, broken ring, etc.; but whatever the problem is, I'll find it when I get it disassembled. And no, I have not had any issues with the glow plug harness. In fact, I've never had to put a glow plug in this engine. They've always worked, oddly enough.
