Hydro-Gear produces an extensive line of high-performing, efficient hydrostatic transmissions and transaxles; gear reduction drives; variable displacement piston pumps and wheel motors; electric drive systems, and infinitely variable transmissions for industrial, commercial, and consumer markets. Hydro-Gear’s goal is to ensure our products and services meet our customers' rigorous requirements and exceed their expectations.
THANK YOU...for this video. While I was unable to directly find ANY videos disclosing the hydrostatic drive bypass valve for a Snapper zero turn mower...i happened upon THIS video, which revealed a nearly identical hydrostatic transmission/ drive, AND ..."Huzzah..😄" the location/identification of that elusive bypass valve. Again..thanks so VERY much.
Would be worth including in the video, that "port plug', or otherwise "air bleed", can be located in other locations... After draining oil from my JD Z740R, both oil filters removed, it occurred that indeed there is an air bleed screw on the left drive, however there is a hose attached to this very port on the right drive... Wasted two hours trying to figure out what to do, when I thought this video showed full procedure, EXTREMELY frustrating and disappointing... Eventually figured, going left to right and back, checking what's different between both sides... Found that left one has a hose connected to the top, and air bleed where the video shows, while this is switched on the right drive, obviously just to annoy and confuse... Why NOT just use flexible hoses to connect to same ports on both sides, to make it intuitive, LOGIC, and EASY to service??? Surely an xtra hole through a steel plate, or 10cm of additional hose, and possibly a cable tie cost at manufacturing process, would not lead a top manufacturers to cut corners like that...? Would it...? "hopeless sigh" Whoever signed off that section of design must have been a true "genius"... doh! Once I found the air bleed is located at the top on the right drive, where hose is connected on the left, it's taken me another 30mins to realise there is an access port right beside the oil reservoir, to reach down with a socket approx a foot down (lucky I had all extensions required for the procedure) to finally get to this hidden screw... Not a word mentioned on any of my above findings in the user manual. Only reference was "diagram" mentioning there are two air bleeds on both sides, in resolution so low it could be really pointing ANYWHERE, and not showing at all, nowhere, how to access the air bleed... Extremely, extremely disappointing... Please note this comment comes from a professional who works long hours 7 days a week during mowing season, and downtime of this sort is simply way beyond word "frustrating"...
My Ferris z3x has these pumps but the vent port is an 11mm and it’s in a terrible location for a service item.. the bolt in this video was more like 3/4 so something must have changed.
My zero turn mower has twin ZT-2800 Hydro transaxles. I was wondering if you could add reservoir tanks on these units because they are not equipped with them currently? It seems like I have plenty of room to add them. Also what reservoir parts would you recommend if applicable? Thank you.
Hi, does anyone own a Husqvarna PZ60? I'd like to request some quick guidance on that machine, since I'm trying to understand the Bypass valve ordeal, since the manual makes it extremely confusing. The explanation is very vague. Here are the couple of questions: 1. Is the Bypass Valve the same thing as the Pump Release valves? In other words, this zero turn lacks a rod that you can pull to quickly disengage the transmission. Instead I'm supposed to use a 5/8" wrench and move (counterclockwise?) the Pump Release valve on both pumps to be able to push the zero turn with my hands (neutral). If there's a separate Bypass Valve in the PZ60, can you please let me know where it is located - cause I cannot see anything that I pull back and hold (like the old tractors and other zero turns). 2. The manual says that each pump has 2 Pump Release valves and that I need to move the plastic fan on top to access them. Well, I've removed the plastic fan and I only spot 1 pump release valve per pump. I really appreciate your attention, and if you have feedback, I will gladly welcome it - as long as it's not the same information from the manual because that does not make sense. I'm including the webpage that has its manual under page 35: usermanual.wiki/Husqvarna/HusqvarnaPz6096661440103201306OwnerSManual.1645125581/html#pf5 Thanks!
@@tylerheard1279 I wonder if you happen to have a small leak. Believe it or not I've changed the oil around 2 months ago again, and I decided to do the following: 1. Lowered my PZ60 so it was flat to the ground, since I had raised it to drain the oil and squeezed a small drain pan underneath it. 2. Make sure to PRE-FILL your filter almost to the thread area prior to install. The more you can fill the filter, the better off. Also once you fill it, wait for sometime as the filter will absorb it through its paper layers. Bottom line, the more oil the filter has inside prior to screwing it onto zeroturn, the better off you should be. If you think about it, this SHOULD eliminate the creation of bubble (or a possible negative pressure created by internal air pockets) once the system has been closed. 2. Add the 5 +/- (0.5Qts) of Oil into the reservoir. Close the reservoir. 3. Slightly raise zeroturn and simply move wheels forward and back (slowly then faster). 4. I've noticed that I don't even need to remove the 1/4" allen plugs on the back (hydraulic heads) because the air bubble ordeal is no longer an issue - due to the pre-filling the filter with oil.. 5. However, if you notice that you still have air bubbles (noise or the wheels are not responding), then go ahead and loosen out the 1/4' allen plugs (I think there must be 1 or 2 per hydraulic heads). Run the rear wheels forward and backwards for a good 3-5 minutes, then close the plugs. 6. The main key is to run the wheels with an elevated zeroturn so to eliminate the extreme pressure caused by the hydraulic system once the wheels are on the ground (moving the 1500 lbs machine) forward/backwards. GOOD LUCK! Let me know if it works for you!
For those having a problem with this process here is a tip. If you have a machine that has a resivoir tank you still have to remove the 1/4" allen plug at the top of each axle so that the air bleeds out as it the axles fill. I forgot about these this round (they had dirt in the allen holes and I didn't see them on my inspection) and the oil did not fill one of the axles and it would not rotate on its own. After pulling the plugs keep refilling the resevoir as it drains down until oil comes out the ports. It takes a while and several top offs. Then plug them back up and top off and do the purge process.
@@user-el5pu1rw1y You do have to have the rear wheels off the ground when you purge. One thing that helped before was I ran a control stick forward and then manually started spinning the wheel so that it would pull the fluid in and that seemed to help get the process started. If you still have a problem then I guess I would look back over the basics. Make sure you re-engaged the two rods in the back of the machine that put the hydros in neutral. Make sure the belt going to the hydro's is on. Make sure you used the correct fluid type. I used shell rotella t-6 15-40 once and it was fine and this last time I believe I used a valvoline 20w-50.
I have a ferris z3x with 14 hours on it, it started shrieking on the left Hydro. The longer you run it the louder it gets. I went through this procedure and it still does it what could be the problem?
On my 5400 the wheels turn under no load with the bypass open. Fluid was at the level specified on the manual and on reservoir tanks prior to this. Am I doing something wrong.
Yeah we sure needed a video on how to change the fluid on those pumps we've only been freaking changing out the oil on those pumps for freaking damn 20 years
I have a Scag Cheetah with the ZT5400s, I can remove the vent port plugs but it's a disaster every time I change fluid as I can never catch it just right, resulting in an overflow mess. You now include two threaded fittings and two short lengths of transparent hoses with each oil change kit..... I was hoping this video showed their purpose. It did not.
My Toro manual says to fill it from the expansion tank with the fill plug open so you dont overfill. I don't see why it would make a difference other than it makes a mess when it overflows out of the fill plug.
Can anyone tell me at how many hours should I do the first hydro oil change for a stander b Wright ???? I’m going crazy. It seems like EVERYBODY has a different opinion as to when I should make the first change. I’ve gotten answers from the first 75 hours all the way to 400 hours. It’s insane !!!!
@I STAND ALONE I currently have 135 hours on it and still haven’t made the first change. I have noticed in the last week or so that my right side kinda slipped a few times. Could it be the it’s getting damaged because I didn’t change it at 50-75 hours? This really sucks that it could get damaged because of lack of info. I haven’t changed it because I didn’t wanna mess with it, if it didn’t need to be messed with. I asked “Wright” here on RU-vid when I was at 80 hours when I should change it and they said at 400 hours and that’s why I haven’t swapped it. But I really started getting worried last week when it slipped a few times. Thanks for your help btw
@I STAND ALONE Their manual says to use 20W-50 oil. Why do you recommend using "real hydraulic oil"? I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends. But hey, that's just me.
@@DixieChopperMowers Thanks. I did replace it with 20W-50 motor oil as per specs. Also replaced the filters with Hydro Gear 52114. The original filters were a bitch to get off! They were so tight they got destroyed while removing them. I was cursing whoever put them on, but I'm over it now. Almost...
Are the by pass valves suppose to move back and fourth when they’re closed? I have a wright stander b and they move around. I zip tied them down so they wouldn’t move but than my right hydro started giving problems. (Loss of power) so I removed the zip tieds. I’m praying it was just air pressure trapped because I zíped tied them down
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Houston Trent Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi, Great video ! And the technique seems easy to understand even for a European handyman ! Where should we buy your HydroGear 20w50 brand oil in Europe ? Your exclusive Bibus France dealer seems not to be able to sell your reference kit 72750 compatible with the 2 hydrostatic axles ZT 3100 of my Toro Timecutter HD. Regards, Greg (French customers)
I really dislike people like you. Do you know anything that could help me? I doubt it so don't bother responding. It's not this guy's fault you're not smart enough to figure out how to fix your equipment or the fact that you're too cheap to pay somebody who can fix your equipment. Jesus I don't even know how you afford equipment in the first place, if you have a wife girlfriend or boyfriend I bet they have to have equipment in place of you though.
@@stinkyvonfishstix4196 fuck off loser. It's an info vlog. I didn't ask a question just noticed he didn't answer anything. You hate me..you don't know me. And don't pretend to.
I have the exact mower you're working on. It would have been nice of you to mention that you can't easily access (unless you have smurf hands) the port vent plug without removing the transaxles. It would literally add 4 seconds to your video, making it an even 3 minutes, but saving me a lot of aggravation. I see a half dozen locations you could have placed the vent plug to make it much more accessible without removing each transaxle. Good grief.
Those vent plugs are extremely difficult to access so when you finally get a wrench on it do not completely remove it just crack it open a couple turns this will allow it to vent, hope this helps.
I have a old 3 wheel skag I changed the oil cooler but filled it before installing plus put a new hydraulic belt on it now start the motor and the hydraulic pump is barely moving and there is no bypass valve on this 1996 mower which is a 3 wheel skag what could I do to repair??
Greg Pendleton same with the gravelys. Make it look too easy with the transaxle out of the mower🤦🏻♂️. Would like to see how it’s done with it on the mower
Bobcat makes it super easy to access on the zt-6000&7000 series zero turns. Not really hydrogears fault it’s hard to get too on other mowers. The oem should make provisions for it.
It's up to the mower manufacturer, as to how *they* build the machine/frame around the transmission. Send *them* an email about this. Maybe *they* will change it on the next year model?
