Step-by-step instructions for purging the air from Hydro-Gear transaxles after servicing or changing the oil. For more information, visit your local dealer or online at www.hydro-gear.com/oil
For those having a problem with this process here is a tip. If you have a machine that has a resivoir tank you still have to remove the 1/4" allen plug at the top of each axle so that the air bleeds out as it the axles fill. I forgot about these this round (they had dirt in the allen holes and I didn't see them on my inspection) and the oil did not fill one of the axles and it would not rotate on its own. After pulling the plugs keep refilling the resevoir as it drains down until oil comes out the ports. It takes a while and several top offs. Then plug them back up and top off and do the purge process.
@@user-el5pu1rw1y You do have to have the rear wheels off the ground when you purge. One thing that helped before was I ran a control stick forward and then manually started spinning the wheel so that it would pull the fluid in and that seemed to help get the process started. If you still have a problem then I guess I would look back over the basics. Make sure you re-engaged the two rods in the back of the machine that put the hydros in neutral. Make sure the belt going to the hydro's is on. Make sure you used the correct fluid type. I used shell rotella t-6 15-40 once and it was fine and this last time I believe I used a valvoline 20w-50.
Are the by pass valves suppose to move back and fourth when they’re closed? I have a wright stander b and they move around. I zip tied them down so they wouldn’t move but than my right hydro started giving problems. (Loss of power) so I removed the zip tieds. I’m praying it was just air pressure trapped because I zíped tied them down
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
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Hi, does anyone own a Husqvarna PZ60? I'd like to request some quick guidance on that machine, since I'm trying to understand the Bypass valve ordeal, since the manual makes it extremely confusing. The explanation is very vague. Here are the couple of questions: 1. Is the Bypass Valve the same thing as the Pump Release valves? In other words, this zero turn lacks a rod that you can pull to quickly disengage the transmission. Instead I'm supposed to use a 5/8" wrench and move (counterclockwise?) the Pump Release valve on both pumps to be able to push the zero turn with my hands (neutral). If there's a separate Bypass Valve in the PZ60, can you please let me know where it is located - cause I cannot see anything that I pull back and hold (like the old tractors and other zero turns). 2. The manual says that each pump has 2 Pump Release valves and that I need to move the plastic fan on top to access them. Well, I've removed the plastic fan and I only spot 1 pump release valve per pump. I really appreciate your attention, and if you have feedback, I will gladly welcome it - as long as it's not the same information from the manual because that does not make sense. I'm including the webpage that has its manual under page 35: usermanual.wiki/Husqvarna/HusqvarnaPz6096661440103201306OwnerSManual.1645125581/html#pf5 Thanks!
@@tylerheard1279 I wonder if you happen to have a small leak. Believe it or not I've changed the oil around 2 months ago again, and I decided to do the following: 1. Lowered my PZ60 so it was flat to the ground, since I had raised it to drain the oil and squeezed a small drain pan underneath it. 2. Make sure to PRE-FILL your filter almost to the thread area prior to install. The more you can fill the filter, the better off. Also once you fill it, wait for sometime as the filter will absorb it through its paper layers. Bottom line, the more oil the filter has inside prior to screwing it onto zeroturn, the better off you should be. If you think about it, this SHOULD eliminate the creation of bubble (or a possible negative pressure created by internal air pockets) once the system has been closed. 2. Add the 5 +/- (0.5Qts) of Oil into the reservoir. Close the reservoir. 3. Slightly raise zeroturn and simply move wheels forward and back (slowly then faster). 4. I've noticed that I don't even need to remove the 1/4" allen plugs on the back (hydraulic heads) because the air bubble ordeal is no longer an issue - due to the pre-filling the filter with oil.. 5. However, if you notice that you still have air bubbles (noise or the wheels are not responding), then go ahead and loosen out the 1/4' allen plugs (I think there must be 1 or 2 per hydraulic heads). Run the rear wheels forward and backwards for a good 3-5 minutes, then close the plugs. 6. The main key is to run the wheels with an elevated zeroturn so to eliminate the extreme pressure caused by the hydraulic system once the wheels are on the ground (moving the 1500 lbs machine) forward/backwards. GOOD LUCK! Let me know if it works for you!
Did this about 20 times over almost 2 hours. Still have air bubbles coming up in the hydraulic oil tank. Right side wheel will turn but makes a little noise. How do I Purge the rest of the air out? This isn't working for me.
