Thanks for the video. I see there are 4 screws under the base. But the base is thick, making the laser beam is 1.5cm away from the ground. Is it possible to unscrew the mount for to install a slimmer plate, in order to have the beam closer to the ground ?
Hi Brash air, Thank you very much for your video. I looked at the procedure for orthogonal check and I believe that there may be something wrong at 10:28. If you align B and C (after rotating 90deg) you will be forcibly aligning at A also (the projection of a plane is a straight line) In that case the misalignment error will be evident at D. (different vertical plane but same result) To measure the misalignment error at point A you have to align the cross lines at B and the mark on the wall at D, forget about aligning C (C will be affected by the same error evident at A). Please let me know if you see any wrong in my thinking and again, thank you very much for sharing, your video gave me a fantastic start. Cheers.
I bought this level off Huepar and it was unlocked when I took it out of case.I was worried the pendulum would be damaged in transit from China to Australia so it was exchanged by Huepar.The second one they sent was also unlocked ,im over it .Can this be a problem being unlocked in transit ? Huepar are saying it's fine and they can't guarantee a third one is locked WTF
My huepar laser reciever doesnt wirk properly in bright sunlight. It just keeps beeping. Indoors or in shade no problem but in sun its a no go. After researching Huepar even state that there will be issues with reciever in bright sunlight. Such a pity
I just bought this device two hours ago and now learning all there is to learn on the features. So thank you very much for this video. The features I REALLY like and did not get mentioned as a positive are the following : 1) Thanks to this video, I know now that they designed the device as such that you don't forget to lock the self leveler pendulum by making it an integral part of the on/off switch. Because for sure I would forget to block the pendulum and then brake the thing by transporting it. I was a bit worried about that. 2) A feature that made me buy this model is that it comes with an rechargeable battery, but ALSO a device that will take 4 AA batteries. This means that even if I have an issue with the battery, I can still use the device with AA batteries, until I can get a replacement. 3) The battery can be charged with a USB-C cable, so I don't have to panic if I lose the charging cable, as I have about 4 or 5 of those already for my cell-phone and other small electric devices. 4) The horizontal lines on top and on the bottom. I went back and forth if I could spare one, because it is about 50 euros cheaper. But decided that I will be doing sealings and crown molding on the sealings, so I will be needing a top laser to get the laser exactly where I want it. But then I also will be installing floors, so I guess I need a horizontal laser that can be as low as possible as well. Hence I bought this model. 5) The remote control is made such that you can hang it on a carabiner and attach it to your toolbelt or pants. Because otherwise FOR SURE it would last me a day before losing it. 6) The wall bracket I should be getting with it, according to their webshop is the one where the laser sits on and is not suspended as shown in your video. I have seen a lot of videos raving about that wallbracket, that it was not an option to go for a model that had another model of bracket with it. So now I will have to wait and see, what will come in my box. 7) The fact that you can buy a really sturdy tripod, that even has a feature to weigh the tripod down for extra sturdiness. And they also have a very nifty pole option (to be mounted between floor and ceiling for mounting the laser level. But I'll buy that once I have ceilings. 🙂 That might take a while. 8) The fact that if you have to change the battery, you don't need to dismount the device from the bracket because their is enough space underneath it. All the other things you have mentioned, the sturdiness of the device, the fact you can service the device yourself if it will go out of allignement, the fact that the box is sturdy and well patted, the fact that the green target thingy has a magnet (mind blown), the fact you can use the device with the USB C charge cable plugged into the device, that you can use the device on self leveling mode or manual mode for staircases. All and all, I didn't know the brand, but I am very impressed how well this device has been thought out. Really clever designs, in the tool as well as the accessories that come with it. I am always very motivated to buy quality products and brands on second hand websites. But after learning how delicate these laser levels are, I decided against buying a used Dewalt or Milwaukee laser level. Because you never know what happened to those devices and why they are being sold. And I wouldn't know how to go about and test such a device before paying for it. I also ordered from the Huepar website as I am not always sure how the Amazones of this world are treating the boxes while preparing them for shipping. That I got a 15% discount, was a happy coincidence. Today I am EXTREMELY happy after 3 weeks of research, that I finally bit the bullet and went for the Huepar SO4CG. This reply became lengthy. But reading the comments under videos like yours made my search, that more effective and I like to contribute to anyone searching for their ideal laser level. Thanks again for confirming I did make a good purchase.
Hello @tonyvillena1293, Could you please take a look at my other video on the LR6RG Laser Level Receiver? I think it will explain one way to measure vertical height. Link is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Uir2NCBSpuc.htmlsi=MZDoQwYEHOX00W64
I bought one of these ( UK) and it arrived today. While the laser itself is great, they have changed the large adjustable mount that now has a micro adjustable feature so it can be moved closer to the wall etc when mounted. However there is far too play in all of the adjusters making it unusable.
HI I turned on my new Huepar S04CG laser for the first time and noticed that the vertical beam was splitting into two. one is bright. the second one is weak. What can you do to help?
Hello @pauna7, it sounds like maybe the prism is cracked or defective. It should be a solid vertical line 360 degrees around. Since this is first time turning it on, I’m assuming it is new. Most likely you will need to return it as this is not normal. I would contact Huepar’s customer support. They are usually very responsive and should be able to help.
In it's website description, it mentions adjustable from floor to ceiling, which I can see the upper capability clearly, but was wondering with the tri-pod or the pole alone, can it really go down to almost floor level? Say you want to put down your first row of tile off your shower pan, could it be used for this lower use?
Hello Matt, with the laser mounted on the tripod provided support bracket, it will not go down low enough to do first row of tiles and you would have to use the laser by itself for the first row. However, there is a mod you can do to the micro adjuster bracket which could allow you to install the micro-adjuster bracket to the tripod support to allow the laser to hang down from the top below the support. Here is a link to my video on how to do that modification: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MxUyJo6q_Eg.htmlsi=oYfOLGpBUT39uSQy
Good explanation of how the level works, but you didn't actually give a method of calibration. How does one determine the actual level without a perfectly level floor to work from?
Hello @davidsamways. Thanks so much for watching my video on how to calibrate a laser level. I have another video that explains how to check the level to determine if it needs calibration. You do NOT need to have the level perfectly level to the floor, just within 3 or 4 degrees. Please watch my video on “3D Laser Level Calibration Check and Level Accuracy”: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DtkwfKgFqRE.htmlsi=x8spl6cxgNnknYmQ
Hello Dan, Yes it will run on a USB powerbank. When I'm using it on a project like a bathroom tile job, I'll plug in the USB charger and use it all day long.
I believe there is no such thing as flat surface. Tripod is not perfect, floor is not perfect and most importantly the rubber casing of the laser is very not perfect - thus all 90° horizontal movements will result in slight difference in level. The true level might be acquired here 3:57 - it's right in between those red lines but only if we previously manually adjust the height of the laser using the nearby wall, after every single movement of the laser. Hope I understood that right.
You are absolutely right! The critical thing to remember is to maintain the same height when rotating the laser level. This is also why you want to make a mark on the wall perpendicular to the lines you are checking to ensure the laser level is not tilting when it is rotated.
It actually doesn't matter if the laser is physically level. All we really care about is the height of the laser head, which is why he draws a reference line on the side wall. (If you allow the height to change it can still be done, but it's a lot more work and gets confusing.) Now, I usually don't bother with the reference line because I know my countertop is stable; and the laser's rubber casing/feet shouldn't make any difference either. *If using a good tripod and the mount is directly below the laser head, the head height shouldn't change; but a reference line is still a good idea just to be sure. If using a flat surface, you could do a lot of math if you wanted to get really precise. But if your surface is fairly level, you'll be ok. As an example, I added a 3.07 degree slope to my Huepar by adding 4.7mm to two of the feet (about 11/16" rise per foot). At 33', adding the slope to front two feet raised the top line 1.4mm and the bottom line by .7mm; added to back feet raised the top line about 3mm and the bottom about 1.5mm (they're all different because the laser head and feet are offset from each other). But it'd be the same no matter where you measured because that is how much the the laser heads had actually been raised. But again, as Brash Air said, just make sure the head stays at the same height. It's pretty easy to tell if a countertop is level, it's not so easy to tell if anything else is.
I've got a question. -- If you are using the vertical laser line on a wall -- and want to have a slanted line rather than a perfect straight up and down line -- is there any adjustment on the tripod stand to angle the laser line on a wall ?
Hello Jack. Thanks for watching my video. There is a way to rotate the laser level while in the locked manual mode and that is by using the Huepar microadjuster included with the laser level. However, the microadjuster I have requires attaching to the magnetic base since the microadjuster does not have a tripod adapter. In order to make it work, the magnetic base (steel plate) needs to be modified by adding a 1/4-20 nut to one edge of the steel plate. It's a fairly easy hack and here is a link to a video I made showing how to do it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MxUyJo6q_Eg.html I think Huepar may have added a tripod adapter to later versions of the microadjuster, so a modification might not be necessary.
Hi there and thanks for watching my video. I purchased this S04CG laser level myself and was not sponsored by Huepar. My reviews are totally unbiased and true. I have actually bought three of these with my own money because I really like them. I recently obtained an affiliate link through Share-a-Sale and if you do decide to buy a Huepar laser I will get a tiny commission if you click on that link first. Thanks!
Hello BNS Software. I forwarded your question to iVAC for a response. I do believe they have a product that will do what you need and you can check their website at www.ivacswitch.com to get a full explanation of their products and how to incorporate them into a system that works for you. Tom from iVAC said you can also send your questions to info@ivacswitch.com and he will answer directly.
The biggest difference is size in that a contactor is designed to handle higher current and the contact points are usually made of a more durable material. Also the cores in smaller relays are typically round armatures whereas contactors typically have “E” type laminated core windings similar to what you would see in an AC transformer. Also you’ll probably see more DC relays than AC relays and more AC contactors. The AC windings have a shaded pole to assist with offsetting the phase, and combined with the natural eddy currents in the winding will magnetically hold the contactor closed (assuming NO type contactor) when the AC phase changes direction.
Hello Anders. Thanks for watching the video. The grade rod I used in this video was purchased from my local Home Depot in the US for about $32, but it is in inches. I have others in metric I use in Japan. The brand is Adir Pro and you can get the right length and measuring units if you order one from Amazon. They are made of aluminum and seem to be pretty sturdy. Here is a link to Amazon site that has them on sale right now: a.co/d/iosQpKq
@@brashair7652 No, the rod in the video is in hundredths of a foot (not in inches), but the same rod is also sold in an inch model. How can you tell? The rod in the video shows the numeral "9" (ie. 9 tenths of a foot) under each foot numeral. An inch based rod would have the numeral "11' (11 inches) under each foot numeral. We use 0.01 foot rods (as in this video) in the US for surveying (because decimals simplify the math, as in metric) but carpenters use a similar looking scale that is in inches, because hundredths of a foot isn't something they normally use. The black marks on the rod in the video are exactly 0.01 wide (you use the top and bottoms of those lines, not the center). On the inch based rods, the lines are exactly 1/8" thick, and you also use the top and bottom. The foot based (survey style) rods chop each foot into 100 parts, while the inch based rods chop each foot into 96 parts. The two types of rods look very similar, since the black lines are almost the same width. Also note that although huepar makes a great laser, the level bubble is absolute garbage (as the video shows it being used to plumb a rod that is very clearly not plumb (or, the laser level line isn't level, which is unlikely)). Use a post leveler to plumb the rod, they are cheap and very accurate. If you are in the US, I recommend the survey style foot rod, the math gets much easier (no fractions, just decimals as in metric.
Hello mo ni and thanks for watching. You should be able to tell true level by measuring exactly half the distance between opposite marks made while checking X-axis at 180 degrees to each other.
It was a super helpful series in parts 1 & 2. I was impressed by the lengths you went to get accuracy on angle measurements and their calculations. THANKS!!!
i opened my huepar 3x360 laser and the adjustment screws at the end that you showed only seemed to adjust the horizontal. i made one mark on the wall 5m away and adjusted the front laser until the front and back window both were dead on the mark then i proceeded to do the same to the side laser until all windows were on the mark. The only way i found to adjust the vertical was to work out which way the laser was out and fractionaly back out the screws attaching the laser diode until it was level with another laser that was level to a spirit level, so all three were giving the same reading. The vertical of the laser i was adjusting needed to go to the right so i fractionaly and evenly backed out the top screws, thats got to be how huepar would repair it as i spent hours on it and the two ways i used was the only possible way i could do it. Have used it since to do some MF ceilings at 2400mm, i set the laser up in a room at around 5x5m measuring up from the floor 2400mm, i then measured each corner of the room and they were within 1-2mm accuracy except one which was about 5mm difference which im putting down to the screeded floor.
You know, I didn’t think so, but I tried it and it does! You have to turn on one of the vertical beams and rotate the receiver 90 degrees sideways and it will work same as in the horizontal position.
+/- 3mm means up to 6mm distance between lower and upper mark after rotation when distance between laser and wall is 5m, what you are saing is correct, but your picture @4:45 is incorrect, should be 3mm (plus or minus 1.5mm gives you 3mm distance).
Thank you for watching the video, and yes, you are correct. At 10 meters the maximum deviation from True Level is plus OR minus 3mm, but never more than 3mm from True Level. Therefore, worst case would be one side at +3mm and other side at -3mm for combined out-of-tolerance of 6mm at 10 meters. However, I personally would be hesitant to use a laser level that far out of calibration for any interior work projects spanning large distances.
