Your comment of FRP and Carbon being the same makes sense, but then they did make them out of two different materials. PN Racing even makes one out of spring steel. I wonder if it has to do with the speed at which it returns back to its original form (plane) kind of like a shock rebound. I would think the Carbon will "bounce" back quicker and limit body roll compared to the FRP? What do you think? We are talking a tiny amount that would be hard to notice every day unless you are racing and really tuning a car.
I just got my mini z and went to replace the t plate with a 3d printed one. The factory screws are unreasonably tight. I plan to change them all out to hex head. However, simce they are all phillips in the car, i need to get them out. What size is a proper phillips for the mini z's #00?
Yeah so I use alcohol and a spot of toothpaste for run in with one AA battery for 5 min.. far better results as the grit in toothpaste polishes comm..and seats brushes better,, trick from reedy motors we did in the 80’s
Thank you, your videos have been so incredibly helpful! Do you have any recommendations on how many kingpin shims to run? Like how many above the steering knuckle and how many below. The manual says 1 shim above the steering block and 1 shim below but I was wondering what most guys do for a race setup chassis. Thank you!
On power over steer could also be a diff that is too loose causing the inside tyre to spin 'diffing out' and the car spins out or too tight causing the outside tire to break traction and causing a spin out...
What about box stock but with +1.5 offset wheels front & rear plus softer racing tires. than, thicker and thinner T plate in addition to the wheels & tires compared to box stock (I have a amg gt3 rwd readyset )
On a rc caster angle is useless because the servo is keeping the car straight. The force of caster angle is not strong enough to correct misalignment of the servo and steering. USELESS you can implement a steer by wire system, which you can drive the rc depending on the force feedback.
Hi there! I'm an engineer, just wanted to chime in on the aerodynamic drag topic, you can basically ignore that as a factor in Mini z Racing, you aren't going to do anything to have a meaningful change in driving performance at the speeds these are capable of. Just as an example, if you took a car with one of these racing bodies and raced it against another that magically had zero drag, it will contribute to about 2% less air resistance than your standard mini z if your speeds are under 15mph and about 4% at 30mph. Remember that we are talking about the total delta of full air resistance vs none, you are probably looking at a total difference of under 20% for all these modern racing bodies. Considering that your rolling resistance is probably over 90% of your total resistance at these speeds, you can quickly see how aero just doesn't matter with this, you would be chasing less than a tenth of a percent of change in your top speed.
kind of a click bait title - just add "is practice" in the title. I came here looking for upgrades suggestions because I'm going shopping in Tokyo, kind of wasted my time a little bit, but not a big deal
I really like your advice on switching from a stock-ish Mini-Z to a custom chassis without wasting too much energy on upgrading Mini-Z. I have one important question though: Where did you get your Audi Body? I absolutely need one 😀
Love the videos brother! You got any more mini z videos in you? I just got into the sport and got the large 96 track and I need to learn from the best.
How hard or soft is going to depend on your track (grip, surface). if you have a nice flat tack with lots to traction you want something on the harder end of the spectrum since your car will #1 not be bouncing and #2 need to rotate around turns by limiting body roll. Less body roll = less traction (there are limits to everything). You would want a softer T plate in a track that is bumpy and or with low traction - again so that you have a tiny bit of side roll and this helps the rear end be planted. I will say that the factory plastic T-plate is just a place holder and needs to be replaced for racing right away just like the tires. The order of operations is: 1 - Tires (find the right combo) 2 - Suspension spring (T-plate and front spring) Hope this helps.
One of the best explanations as to why you "run in " a brushed motor ....enjoying the content, I would love to see some racing pal but in the mean time have a Sub
On your main youtube channel at the top, the banner, I see a McLaren which I have the same one. Would you be willing to share what offset of rims with tires you have on it? They look like PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Machine Cut 10 Spoke but I am not sure if they are F1, F2, F3 and R1, R2, R3 AND Love your videos, learning a ton and practicing even more. TIA Keep up the great videos!
im sorry to say but what a bad video.. no explaining why youd use what part. you just yell what one part we need. then what others you also put on it..
Ah, the memories. It's been about 20 years since I raced 10th scale touring, and I'd forgotten all about running in the motors under water. We also use to just dip them in water running for a few seconds to clean them occasionally. As for drying, we also used compressed air (gently) to speed up the drying process. Thanks for the info!
@@garretttuckerrc Thank you! Turns out I did not word my question very well, my fault. I was actually wondering where to get that exact setup board. In some of the videos it has a kind of 'clink' sound, like maybe it's made of tile or porcelain or something? I'm just curious, lol
Your so correct when it comes to the front springs collapsing I know that when I'm entering a corner and I give initial steering the front spring seemed to collapse quickly so my solution to that was to slow the curve down on the radio by 15% so the spring doesn't collapse all at one's it collapses slowly. At least that's what I had to do to my 1/12 scale😅 and I learned that from one of the yokomo drivers
