Your videos are great, it's really nice to see informative videos on 1/28th scale as information is hard to come by compared to larger scale cars. Also this is a side note but your wiring is super clean and very nicely thought out. Keep up the great work!
Thanks man, these cars suck to install electronics into, so the main goal was to have the wires in a Way, so did not bind up the rear, and just make it pretty from there. Wil make a wire management vid
The balls for the kingpin should all have the ring facing down. All balls are the same, so test the balls with the kingpins before installing. Drop the kingpin into the ball, and choose the smoothest ones for the bottom. The ones with a little more stiction, place in the upper arms because they do not move on the kingpin. If placing the ball with the ring facing up on the lower fixed arm, I have seen it start to bind, but performs well when placed with the ring down. I use the plastic arms on my cars. For the reasons you stated, as well as the combination of the plastic arm when used with the alu upper bulkhead can fit an extra shim for caster adjustment compared to the plastic+plastic, or alu+alu... which allows a little more adjustment, or reduction in slop compared to plastic+plastic. I have never been a fan of alu arms, because in any sort of collision which the wheel takes a hit, the arms absorb that force. Plastic will bend and return, or break... alu will bend and stay bent, or break. I either remove the standard upper deck (and rear posts which restrict servo horn travel), snip off the trailing arms of the brace (leaving only the front portion when using a plastic upper bulkhead). Or, I use the triangle brace. I drive on many smaller circuits, where having maximum steering throw is needed. The original GLR manual recommended installing the horn slightly off center to allow throw on the side with the post. I felt that it is incorrect to do so, and would make the car feel different in linearity when steering in opposite directions. For the axle shimming, if using a 4.5mm hex M2 nut, you can install reversed, and the edge on the nut which holds the nylock will sleeve slightly over the 3mm axle to take up the slop. A 4mm hex M2 nut will not do the same. As the wheel, and bearing take a lateral load, this reduces the contact area of the nut to only the side of the inner race. Both methods can work, if I use the shim method, then I use a 4mm hex nut to reduce contact to the bearing. If I use a 4.5mm nut, I install it reversed.
Would love to have had a more detailed manual for this. Because you need to be a experienced builder to get this car right, so very hard to do for a realativly new driver. But then again thats why im now making these vids 😄
Great video . I’ve just tested the titanium gear servo on my glr gt . I’m not the best at set up yet but changing the servo from stock made the handling instantly so much better . Catch up soon buddy .
I will likely get a glr in part because you are going to have videos. They are fantastic and give confidence to just pull the trigger and build one. I just need the ohh so elusive, driver upgrade, so that I can stop hitting walls. Lol
Just want to say thank you for putting this series of videos out. I have watched all of them and have found them to be very informative. Also I really like how you have the motor wires organized on your GLR - is that heat shrink or tape that you are using to keep them together?
What front wheels are you using? And why, does it do the same job as glue the tyres? Thx for sharing and keep up making this interesting content. Cheers
Yeah its a slip ring from PN works as glue, but none of the hassle 👍 I will go through all aspects of the glr type cars, so wheels and so on, is planned
Ah ok. Thx for answering. After talking to our track owner we are not allowed using this so back to the glue. I bought a glr this week and still have a lot of tuning to do. I also experience some problems with the stock servo and servo saver provided in the kit. After cornering the wheels won't come back in a straight line. What are your thoughts about this?
@@meshall9586 sad to hear that, but glue works just as well. Yeah the servo saver is a pile of crap, switch to the aluminium servo horn asap, I have very few recomendations for upgrades, but that is on the top of the list.
Thank again for all you info...problem on the servo is solved because of your tips. Found out the ball cups on the steering arms causing the problems, they didn't move freely at all. So loosened them up and now she driving fine and steers like a dream. Upgraded the servo horn and servo saver at the same time. 👍
Great info, Thanks. What wheels are on your chassis? Love the carbon ring. Is this a tire holder or a traction roll helper? EDIT... found them from PN Racing. Traction roll helpers. Love those.
