Thanks for your videos. I started in copper and now am adding silver to my work. I have been hesitant to make copper rings as the closer copper is to the skin, the more sweat, the more skin discoloration. Do you sell these? What are customer reactions to the copper inside? What’s The price point difference between silver over copper vs all silver rings?
I would love to see more classes on anticlastic forming. I have looked everywhere and can't find many classes online and traveling is so expensive. You are such a good teacher.
Hey Pat, I watched this video in follow up to your reticulum video and just wanted to see you finish the cuff. I was a little surprised that you didn’t annealing the cuff between every round. The cuff got so hard and out of shape I was, as I said… surprised! I thought you were pretty lucky it didn’t break. It turned out beautiful though! I would have loved to see you melt the edges! Maybe on another video? Thanks for the share!
the reason why it is not showing dark oxide layers is because drawing the copper to the surface and etching it away leaves you with pure silver, which does not oxidize. so its just white metal. thats called depletion.
Yes, I designed it that way, have you seen the finished product, I like the look. Also it makes it a bit easier to make, 90 degree corners are not always easy to produce.
I really loved it! Beautiful piece! Do you think it could be done using german silver instead of copper? Should I try using flux in that case? Thank you for teaching us this great technique.
I have never worked with German Silver but to determine if it would substitute check the melting point of german silver, and in this case the melting temp of sterling silver, sterling silver would need to have a lower melting temp which it does ( I just checked ), so I believe it would work. PS I don't think you need flux.
@@patcahillmetalworks322 Thank you very much, really. Melting point of german silver is really high, higher than silver, brass or copper. German silver is very common for us in Southamerica. I only wonder if oxidation of german silver (by heating) could make that silver does not stick apropiately to the base. I could see, in copper, it doesn´t happen. :) Otherwise, I will do it on copper. Hope I can reach such a beautiful piece as de one you showed us in this video (or close). Thank you very much . Your pieces are really beautiful.
Another great video! Thank you and subbed. A question - if we want to texture the edges, with say a cross-pein or punches, or hammer the whole thing with a ball-pein, do we do this while the sheet is still flat before shaping with the nylon hammer?
Very useful - thank you! I love anticlastic forms and I first saw a tutorial showing that you had to solder first (which of course I didn't want to do for a slip on cuff) so this was great and I followed the beginning steps. What do you think is the ideal gauge sheet for a cuff like this, and perhaps the maximum we could go to and stll anneal without issue? I was using 0.5mm but it felt a little too thin.
@@patcahillmetalworks322 ok, thank you :) But I think you're talking about the red one. I was wondering about the other one. It seems like you slide the blade inside holes, instead of like mine between two plates. But maybe I'm not seeing right. And thank you for your videos, they are really helpful!
Thanks so much for these videos. I am excited to try it. Can you tell me where you got the stake set up and the hammer that you are working with? Thanks!
I got them while taking a workshop with Michael Good on Anticlastic Forming (at a reduced package deal as part of the workshop) I believe that you can get them at www.fretzdesign.com/ but they are not cheap.
Thank you. My father use to make bangles and he taught me once as a kid but I've since forgotten. I was nice that this video existed so that I had a refresher.
Please help! I want a completely plain bangle 6cm weighing 40g, the jeweller is telling me i will need 80grm of silver because of waste? I have never heard of this before so is this true. i would be so grateful for your reply.
No that can not be true even if you are casting the wire I don't think that you would need 2x the weight, but I would not suggest casting it. Just buy sterling silver round wire. Determine in the length needed for a plain bangle at 6cm internal diameter the weight will be determined by the gauge of the wire used, then add about 2.5 to 5% more for cutting and filing the ends. I hope that helps
Neat, thank you. Why does the repeated heating not create firescale? Or is it that firescale is being created, and then the copper etched away? How about using Argentium?
Good questions. Firescale is covered up by the repeated heating, pickling and brass brushing leaving a thin layer of fine silver. Yes you can use Argentium and actually get away with fewer heating pickling cycles.
I am not sure I understand your question, YIKES It would be very painful to solder a bangle while the person was wearing it, again I must not understand your question. Wait it just occurred to me that one can probably do this if they have a laser welder, but I have no experience with laser welders, would love to have one but alas I don't have the funds.
It is quite simple: You want to determine the length of silver wire needed for your bangle. 1. First determined the size you need by measuring the distance from your first knuckle (pinky finger) to your knuckle on your index finger, for me it is 3 inches. 2. The formula needed is: Length of silver wire = the size (3 inches for me) plus the thickness of the wire (0.1 inch for 10 gauge sterling silver wire) times Pi ~3.14. 3. So length of wire needed is (3 +0.1) X 3.14 or 9.734 inches. I might of confused you by modifying this a slight bit because if you want a hammered bangle the hammering will increase the size a bit so I used ~9.5 inches instead of 9.732 inches and as I hammer I keep checking the internal diameter to make sure that it is stretches to 3 inches. I hope that helps.
It would have been helpful for most of us that do not have that hexagonal form to bend around to know how you would proceed with making that shape. Such a beautiful box! Thank you for sharing this!❤
Thank you for a great video ❤ can I ise the bee hive kiln without the temperature regulator? How do I apply the gold foil on a cuff that is already big and convex? Thank you for your advice 😊
I don't know about use without the regulator you probably can but it would be best to contact the maker. Applying the gold foil on a finished cuff is tricky the whole surface needs to be at the proper temp and a small kiln like the beehive probably would not be able to do it.
20 gauge, hardness doesn't really matter as long as it is soft enough to take the curves without springing back. In the end you can harden the ear-wires by tumbling in stainless shot for at least 4 hours.
