I'm just hoping that fixing the fuel system will get this back up to 200hp. I will say that the power band looks awesome! Power keeps climbing all the way up to 8000rpms!
We'll see what the power band looks like first before I make any changes like that. Changing the length of the ITBs doesn't change peak power, but it shifts the power band around.
@@DoctoredGarage Sure yes, do that! Yes it brings more power and torque at low and mid-range revs and therefore the engine response much better and smoother. By the way, You've got a great build. I subscribed and will be following Your Progress.
Thanks! Right now I'm honestly pretty happy with what the power curve is looking like. Torque comes on early and horsepower climbs all the way up to 8000RPM. I really want to get a nice exhaust manifold on this car to see how it changes the power. but that'll have to wait awhile. Here's to hoping the fixed fuel system gets me to 200+hp 😅
Thanks! I'm just waiting on parts now 🙃 I was hoping to have it back together this week and on the Dyno this weekend but we'll see if everything shows up on time
Wait you got an A/C corolla?? Dude living in luxury! 👌🏼 Heat shield products sticky wrap works great for under chassis just peel and stick! No more burned shoes
I am not sure about the 1GFE. I'm not familiar with that engine and wiring, but if you tried to install these R8 coils with the OEM ECU, that is probably why. Toyota coils have a diagnostic circuit to identify the coils and faults. If they're not the original coils, the ECU likely won't start the engine. Hope this helps!
I bought this jack last month and used it for the first time today, to jack up the rear end of my 3200lb car. Just about the time I got the car fully raised, I heard a pop and then noticed the jack descending with hydraulic fluid pooling beneath the jack; the seals had apparently blown. Before this time, I had tested the jack with no load and it seemed to work fine, except that it was taking about 5½ pumps to reach full height instead of the advertised 3½. I attributed this to air in the system and so did the oil top off, it was a little low, and the air bleeding, there were some bubbles. After that the jack worked fine, as advertised, and I then lubricated the joints and pivot points with white lithium grease as per the instructions. I'm going to take the jack back to HF for an exchange, as I really like the jack and am hoping this one was just a fluke. I know that this jack is made in China🫤
@@DoctoredGarage Thanks, it does seem like a well-made jack and so I'm thinking that it was just a fluke with either a bad seal or a seal that had been installed improperly. I'm going to HF in about an hour with the receipt, it's about a month old, and will try to exchange it for another one.
It was good stretching creampuffs legs a bit! Hopefully I can get the car tuned soon. But I need to do something about the heat from the exhaust ASAP haha
Hi there I have a 2024 Acura Integra type S my gas tank holds 9 to 10 gallons I want to expand my gas tank. Should I add a fuel cell? I. Want 15 gal tank So basically I wanna add a second tank that will drain into my primary tank. What would you do? HELP😂 I. Go through ten gallons very quick
So for tension rods I bought some megan brand cheaper ones cause I can’t afford better brands, and was wondering if I set it up and down instead of how you say horizontally, does it make a huge WEAR difference? I noticed the bolt and heim joint they provide is too large/wide to install horizontal because the bolt hits the tension rod bracket. I was thinking to get a different bolt with a low rounded end for better clearance, but that still would leave the nut end hitting being the bolt ends revolve around the heim joint. Not sure if this is okay or it will wear out extremely fast in a month or so…?
I used to have the Megan's on my car and remember them being extremely tight but was able to fit it. I think you'll be ok, it's definitely better one way than the other but I don't think it'll be detrimental.
@@DoctoredGarage Why to start? Love that you did it! 😂. How you got it to fit? Year, make and model of the car you pulled it from so that I can google myself into a rabbit hole. 😅. I have seen shortened 8.8, GM rear end out of a blazer. The blazer one actually has an almost identical hub face measurement to a stock ae86. Welded SR5 rear ends with disc conversions. Miata complete rear sub frames. I really enjoy the creativity of builds. Thanks!!!
So, the rear end is out of a 1st generation Celica supra. They're pretty hard to come by nowadays - but like 10-15 years ago they were the junkyard rear end of choice. Driveshaft has to be modified and then you buy a 4 link + panhard bar kit from a company like Just Engineering and it pretty much bolts right up. I used an occamotif dual caliper bracket for the gts rear end and bolted on new GTS rear calipers for the brakes. Here's a video going over the install, but the brakes are in a different video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--PRit27eLWM.html
engineer here. the necking won't be an issue, as the flow rate across the entire system at any given point is equal. Q = VA, where A is area and V is the velocity of the air. at the section it necks down, that flow will just accelerate to match the rest of the system. so, flow rate is almost never where the power is coming from unless the system was not sized properly in the first place. you're getting power from reduction of "head loss", ie energy losses from the flow itself and everything it passes through.
Thanks for the info! Hard to say what the right size is for the application, there have been a lot of assumptions but no solid data. Fingers crossed this is just fine! I really wish I had the $$$ to get a nice manifold for it too, but that'll have to wait :)
So awesome, glad everything is going smooth and dreams are coming true. When mine runs I plan to do a cross country trip and hopefully we can drive ours together!
Hey Mitch - I don't have a spare, J160s are kind of hard to come by these days (at least ones that aren't attached to an engine/package deal). I hope you find one!
This videos old but hopefully you put a check valve/roll over valve on that vent tube. You only want it to draw air in as the fuel level drops so the fuel cell doesn't build up a vacuum. But you dont want fuel to be able to travel out of the vent in case of a roll over. Nothing is worse than rolling a car over and then having your fuel pour all over the place while you are trying to get out of the car
The radium FCST has a rollover check valve built in :) no need to add another one. Even the old aluminum box I used before had a built in rollover check valve.
