Great video man, will be following this when I finally purchase the products required xD The headlights are pretty cooked on my Z right now. And unrelated but I had a kangaroo interrupt my togue run last night. Was flying with my shitty headlights and all of a sudden a roo appears standing still in the middle of my lane, and it's a tight road with 2 lanes. Swerved around him as I had no time to break completely, and just remember thinking how stoic he was. He didn't even look at me, just a big f off roo standing his ground in my lane 😂 Almost could have died and it woke me up
Okay a couple questions 1.) when you sanded in the beginning were you wet sanding (like just dipping the 800/400 in water) ? 2.) what is things I can do to ruin it that I do not want to do 😬 3.) you said let the clear coat flash for 10 mins depending if the suns out if the suns out do I let it flash less time since the suns out ? 4.) after the buff do I wash it off or just wipe it off before I polish ? 5.) after the polish do I wash it all off or leave it or wipe off? Sorry so many questions 😬
1. I was constantly having the surface wet and you'll know when to add water since the sand paper will clog up and the water will clear the sanding pad. You can dip the paper in a bucket of water and or just keep the surface wet with a hose or something. I was also outside (not ideal) so the water evaporated quickly. 2. You just don't want to sand into the carbon fiber weave or into the epoxy, ideally take off just the top clear coat layer (you'll get a feel for it and understanding when you start sanding just be cautious. 3. Ideally never do paint work in direct sunlight but this is real life so if the suns out let it flash or have a drying period of about 7-10 minutes, if you have masking tape or protection on the side of your project touch that and feel if its tacky to know if its dried enough never touch the clear coat on your hood. You want it to dry but not completely just a good amount so it isn't totally wet but it still can grab the next coat when you spray it. 4. I'm not a buff/polish expert as I've done it only a handful of times but I wiped it off I didn't use water and clean it. 5. Same thing I didn't use water and clean it, I wiped it. But I would look that up because maybe you should be washing it off. I don't mind the questions thank you for all of them!
I used both of them with the buffer, not sure if that is the correct way to do it but mine came with different pads and a guide on which one does which. I would use the cutting compound with a microfiber pad and then polish with a foam pad. You can use both on the buffer machine if not you can do microfiber by hand. If you have more questions no problem, hope I answered them well, I would reference a couple of RU-vid videos and compile all the info you get to have the best peace of mind! Hope it turns out great!
That was what I had thought too at one point, I’d say the integrity of the clear coat is probably on its way out if you have spots that have faded and would be best to do the whole hood but you could definitely sand a spot and try it before you commit all the way. I even thought maybe sanding those spots and using a clear coat wipe. But probably best to do it the correct way 👍
@@rocket4215 I can’t remember exactly I think it was 2, I would advise to do nice thick coats and from what I remember some people used 3 or 4 cans and that would provide more room to buff and cut the clear coat and more protection in general but I didn’t feel the need for my project
Awesome thank you for your nice comment! I learned a lot since that was my first time ever doing any of that, if I did it again I think it would look nearly professional! Your Evo will totally shine ✨
Excellent video, fast, clear, to the point, no extra BS or confusion. I'm sold, subscribing. Wish more RU-vidr tutorials were like this. Well done! And thanks for the video, no need to watch any others to remove rear oem 350z bumper.
It normally does sync up, take a look at my decal installation video or even the painting one. I went ahead and closed the gap after looking at it and thinking about it
Hey great job , and the wing looks good , and this is coming from someone who doesnt really favor anything but the gst wing on the 2g , but i say refine the base make it as thick as the wing itself keep the same hieght , and yeah 😎 like where its going , good luck and drive safe 👍🏾✌🏾
Just found your channel, love seeing all the projects. Definitely here for the long run! My brother also had an Eclipse. 1993 first gen with the pop ups. Loved that thing.
Its pretty cool not gonna lie. Brings back the fast and furious vibe lol😂. But somewhat the green is looking more like a mint green rather than the yellowish bright shocking type green.
Unfortunately nobody knows which direction to go with the paint color, in the first fast and furious they used a warming filter over the lenses so the green you see in the movie is totally different from what it would be in real life, we tried that, putting a warming filter over my car and it looks the same. Also the red s14 that letty drives in the first movie is also purple but because of this filter it shows up red.
When we first were doing research on where to buy the front bumper I saw Larry H Miller have it for sale. Maybe that was the last one and someone bought it, our receipt shows we actually bought it from Z1Motorsports. I misspoke in the video my bad
Tinybot has the best looking carbon fiber vinyl wrap. Nice Z. I also have a DE fismo. Full Oem body kit and im picking up the oem side skirts tomorrow for $75!!! what a steal. I’ll be resorting to your video for installing them. Subbed.🦾
That’s awesome thank you for your support! Your car should be looking great with those skirts ours unfortunately weren’t $75 😭 and I agree tinybot and auravinyl I think have the best wraps but we’re balling on a budget over here for sure 😂
