Hey man, I was doing the bearings and the first one got stuck in the middle of the rod. I have bought the 693, which was 3x9x3, and it doesnt go all the way in or out. What can I do? edit: glad I have read every comment here to see if anyone has the same problem... sanded the shaft using 240 grit and bearings fits easily
I tried to replace the bearings nut ended up braking the whole damn thing. Are you sure the 3mm*8mm*3mm is the correct size? It was a little tight and now I’m trying to contact thrustmaster to replace the bracket so that I can try again. I’m thinking of ordering 3.5mm*8mm*3mm bearings if they exist or a suitable replacement.
Got a $90 new tmx last week and already taken it apart 4 or 5 times. If thrust master spent some time updating it, the tmx would be entry level king for another 10 years
Is it really noticeable the improvement in force feedback due to the lesser weight of this mod? Does it weight less than the official Open wheel TM? Thanks
Today's Update: I've sanded with 230-500 grit sandpaper the shaft till the bearing can fit. No problem at all. Only a bit tricky to recenter the wheel after removing the motor and the belt
Does force feedback improve with this upgrade? Is it more stable and with less dips? For now I changed the fan by putting the Noctua and it improved a bit. I would like to know if it is worth doing this upgrade also for the optimal force feedback performance. Let me know your opinion as soon as you can and congratulations for the guide👏😃🍾
It does NOT fit, this size is too wide for the belt to be able to go around it and too long for the motor shaft which is exactly the same as on my T150. The T300 uses a differently modelled motor tension area than those because it's fully belt-driven and more powerful.
Hey man I really hope if you have any idea on this. My FFB fails against resistance and shuts off. The rest works fine but only the FFB stops. I did open it and check the sensor on the back of the motor and it's not broken.
@@BluFrost8888 i do not recommend installing pulley for t150, the parameter's is 16teeth bore 3.175 width like a belt 9mm. I don't recommend do that because u need to do some space between motor, because shaft too short, and this didn't have a meaning, the gears on t150 is not symmetry (i see that when open mine) and main vibration going from gear. the belt profile on my is MXL but i see one dude from gtplanet who t150 have the gt3 or 2 belt(i don't remember)
Hi about the 3M-16T how many teeth should i buy? 16teeth-5MM of 20teeth-5MM? (edit) also there is only pack of 4 bearings and pack of 10 bearings which one should i choose?
I want to buy the M-styled GT wheel, but I also want to keep my original wheel to use for drifting. Does anyone know how to purchase just a standard T300 RS GT rim without the base?
You can use a 3d printed adapter to fix your original rim/plate to the base but you won't have any buttons (ok for drifting imo). Acelith doesn't sell it but there are 3d files out there, or they can find it for you
Hello, In the video description you mention we need an 11mm belt width 5mm bore motor pinion, would a 12mm belt width 5mm bore motor pinion work? Shipping is around 2 months waiting time for me and waiting that long for the pinion is not something I'd like to do. I found one locally that is 12mm in width but I don't know if that one would work.
Hi Buddy, great informative video, just one question, if you have gone to all that trouble, why not undo a few more screws and replace the bottom Nylon rollers to bearings ? Keep up the awesome content.
hi i have a tgt with several wheels and have not had any issues since getting when it was first launched now if it were to break down sometime in the future i decided to purchase the t300 hub only for just £239.00 to use temporarily say for a few months whilst sourcing something decent to replace the tgt like maybe a DD wheel especially if thrustmaster were to ever make one for the playstation console like ps5 which i have? i went for the t300 hub only as i already have a few wheels to use but i have read numerous reports that the t300 isnt that reliable but then also some people have had them for 6 or 7 years without a problem ? what i would like to knoe is do you think ive done the right thing or should i have got the newer t248 ?? although you cant change the wheel on it it might have been a bit more reliable being its a newer design ?? but then if i start to pay out £300 for that then i might as well pay a bit more and buy the tgt 2 hub to replace my tgt so i dont know wether to taake the t300 back and just save up for a tgt 2 hub ? what do you think any advice muchly appreciated thankyou in advance 3
I would say you have not applied enough tension to the belt, and the belt is jumping a tooth at times. I had this when i first repaired my pinion. Particuarly noticable from drifting or high FFB settings. There is a way to recalibrate tdc, i did this when re installing everything, but if your TDC is changing id say your belt is jumping a tooth.
waht would happen if one would change the gear ratio ? say from 16 teeth pinion > 15 ? would the software still be able to calibrate correctly or would u like need to put in higher wheel rotation software wise to get the same amount of wheel rotation like with the original gearing ?
Thanks for sharing. I have exactly the same issue. It started with a soft spinning left and right. Some days later in changed into a hard fast turns like in your error video. I would like to do the same but fail in finding the spare part. 🤷🏼♂️
Hi! I changed upper gear to aluminum but I keeped tenioners to original. And I greased the worm gear on middle, too. Now my rim isn't straight after calibration progress. Feeling is pretty much better with tightened belt.
@Brandon4179 nope lol, tbh I don't think it'll make a a huge difference anyways since the TMX/T150 is fundamentally worse than the T300/TX with its gear system. The bearings 3x8x4mm (693ZZ size) made a decent difference but nothing significant like going for a fully belt system on the T300/TX. I just saved the correct T300 pinion size that I ordered in my tool chest for whenever I get a T300 and sell my T150
Would you recommend the T300RS? Looking to buy my first steering wheel and thought about buying the G293 but heard troubles with it and no feedback and found the T300RS.
im searching for an issue I have with my TX. When I steer left the wheel returns to center normally. When I steer right the wheel returns to the center but very slowly. When the wheel is calibrating itself the wheel seems like something is "braking" the rotation. Are you aware of this issue or maybe know how to fix it?
if you had catostrophic failure, either the belt or the plastic gear would break, not ideal. If the belt skips a tooth your calibration will be out of sync with wheels position, so no, a metal gear is not any worse. These pinions are the same ones we use on 3D printers and their belts.
@@flippy9133 the stepper motor on a 3d printer / cnc machine has a D groove, as the stepper motor itself sees much more load than on these wheels. These wheels use a faster spinning motor with a small gear that turns a very large gear. That is gear reduction, the 3d printers see much more torque @ the motor. 3D printers do not need gear reduction (though the filament extruder does, but it's all metal gears and no belt)
some 3d printers 100% do and alot of cnc also use belts even giant once all with metal gears if you ever tried to rip or even damage a parametric belts even one 1/4 of this width you would feel how durable they are ( ther mainly made for use with medal gears)@@Lykkanw
would that fix my issue? My FFB fails against resistance and shuts off. The rest works fine but only the FFB stops. I did open it and check the sensor on the back of the motor and it's not broken.
