My main goal with starting a youtube channel is to help people through my HOW TO videos where I do my best to simplify and clarify installs of products, go over any tricky areas and point out any mistakes I make so you don't make the same ones. Find these videos by searching my channel for "HOW TO"
I also like to give full, complete and Honest reviews of products I personally own, paid for unless otherwise noted and use. To find these videos simply search for the product you may be looking for or search "REVIEW".
I'm also here to share the beautiful outdoors (hiking trails, vistas, cool abandoned places etc) with those who may be homebound or not realize all the great opportunities in our backyards. You can find most of these videos by searching my channel for "ABANDONED" or "NEPA" Thank you for watching, I greatly appreciate the support!
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I admire your bike being dirty, it shows you ride! But,…show her some love and wash it!! 👍🏼. Thanks for the info. My new to me 2014 is spiking voltage.
Great video. Really helpful. And love how easy you make it. Thanks! Just questions. Definitely not criticisms (I'm an over thinker! 😂)... I notice you didn't check other points along the chain as they often develop tight spots. Adjustment is normally to the tightest spot. Was that just to be concise, or have you other views on this? Also, the user manual with my bike recommends a mechanical locking adhesive... I noticed you left this out. German over engineering for the over cautious like me perhaps?
Glad this could help! I don't try to pretend to be any smarter than I am lol. I buy the shop manuals to everything I own then make vids if I think it's something the average joe might struggle with and could use some info on. I love the vids where people point out the mistakes they made so you avoid them and so I try to do the same. As far as your questions... I had no tightness in my chain and to be honest not quite sure what you mean...links hanging up? If that were the case I'd look at replacing my chain if it was bad. I never used any loctite on this and never had any problems but by all means it couldn't hurt.
@@rednecktech82- totally appreciate that. Your video is super helpful. I easily over think and complicate things. Re tight spots, i know when i adjusted chains on my other bikes, when i rotated the chain, and the measured tightness, it wasn't always the same from place to place . It was tighter or looser as you went around. So you always adjusted at the tightest spot. - But I'm going back 20 years. So maybe chains are made better these days. Anyway thanks again. Love the videos. 🙏🙏🙏
I’ve had the same Dewalt 10” table saw with no stand on my cut table for like 16 years , new brushes and blades etc. This saw is absolutely awesome because of the rack and pinion fence, it’s the only one like it . I do interior’s for a custom home builder and this saw will handle it. I am Milwaukee guy but this table saw is excellent ! Just buy a Milwaukee Track Saw and you will need nothing else.
ISSUE: Right turn indicator button on switch housing won't depress after installing new hand grips. I recently changed the hand grips on my 1997 Harley Davidson FXDL. While doing so, I "lost" one of the cable ferrules (little brass barrels that the throttle cables fit into on the hand grip). If I would have listened to the guy in this video who stated to take the little cable barrels off and put them aside I could have avoided this entire matter. This was mentioned at the 1 minute, 2 seconds point in the video. But I didn't take his advice and as warned one of the barrels fell off. Read on. The result of all of this after reassembly was that my new grips worked great but the right turn indicator button would not depress. At this point I was unable to signal a right turn. The fix: I unscrewed both screws on the switch housing as the beginning of this video shows. I couldn't figure out why the right turn signal wouldn't depress so I got a flashlight and shined it into the lower part of the switch housing where the turn indicator button is located. Sure enough, the "lost" cable ferrule was lodged behind the turn indicator button. I used needle nosed pliers to remove it, reassembled the switch housing, and the turn button now worked perfectly. I hope that if anyone else experiences this annoyance, a fix is easily at hand. REMEMBER, remove the ferrules as the video suggests when changing the throttle grip.
I think if you’re ripping 4x4’s we’re valuing different things. But as someone who makes furniture, the rack and pinion fence, and the ability to put a dado stack in the dewalt sold me on it.
I have a 95 f 150 and the rotor is loose ( turns a little back and forth ) even when the wheel is bolted down tight. What would you make of this? are the studs all jacked up?
So I just bought a bmw and doing a little bit of work on it, I will be selling this bike and going back to Suzuki Absolutely Hate the way this bike is put together. German engineering is definitely overrated.
Let me say that you’re a life saver. When I got to the part of taking out the 2 Phillips screws I was cussing like a sailor but when you said they are also 9mm bolts and I confirmed it my soul came back to my body. Thank you so much brother.
i suggest you only cut piece of metal if its diesel car, do not do this on a petrol car, any vapor can ignite and u might end up dead.on the other hand diesel is impossible to light with angle grinder sparks
Great instruction. Thank you for not playing obnoxious music to make it hard to understand your direction. How about showing hot pull same application front axles especially rt with u joints and slip joint. How much up and down play is allowed on rt axle slip joint?
bought an old mott mower at an auction 180 bucks was belt drive switch to chain drive made sure the 3/8 shear bolt would shear changed the swing lite blades to long t blades home made the mower runs behind a 100hp tractor you will find it is easier to mow up a couple inch of soil as the ground becomes the place where everything is trashed
Thank you so much. Your video made it simple to understand. I am no mechanic but like to try and fix and replace parts myself before going to an actual mechanic. You helped save me alot of money!!! Thank you, keep posting!
Some of these comments are funny. I cant imagine how much money and time you guys spend on labor. Shade tree mechanics have kept this country on the road for 100 years. My 07 is gonna be driving around on cuts and welds 10 years after you trade in your Hyundai
I just wanted to leave a quick note to say thank you. This video saved me close to $200 in parts for my Ford f150 windows. With the information in your video, I was able to repair my original window motors, instead of having to replace both the motors and the regulator (since I could not buy just the motor in my area). Thank you! 😊
When you removed the rocker covers were you at top dead center??? I seen another video where they said you had to be, or can you do it normally as long as you take it off and reinstall it according to that 1/4 turn rule
GM's been using the nylon press-ring system for decades. Easiest way - hit the yoke around the cup with a torch. Turns all the nylon inside to ash and they pop right out using a regular C clamp (vise is even easier). Can't see spend a hundred bucks on something you'll use once or twice for the lifetime of a vehicle. If that's your boat, go to Autozone or Oreillys and rent - free is GOOD. If you do more, go for it but this is the easiest way and the way GM recommends to remove OEM universals. You'll wanna clean the yoke where you removed the cup pretty good (takes a minute) to get all the debris from the inside groove. Just took me 10-15 minutes to replace 4 on a 2003 S10 extended cab. Make sure you mark the yoke with the shaft and the differential because the whole thing is balanced only one way (phus the slide fittings are keyed). Great vdo...
No disrespect but if you have a torch set you probably already have a U-joint press or could afford one lol. Razor blade took 2 sec...I think a lot faster than getting the torch set out and fired up.
just tested my 87 ford f150 5.0L EGR...all tests passed except the valve is not opening when the vacuum is applied from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve to open. I guess it's frozen. thx for this info btw. no nonsense...just the goods.
