Background: In 2018, my wife and I bought a house and had our first baby. We moved into the home and had the baby a week later. Even though the house looked move-in ready we quickly discovered lots of problems while trying to renovate the baby's room. Being long term renter's meant we had little repair experience and with a new baby and a new mortgage, we needed to learn to fix things ourselves. After a few cycles of fixing something only to find something else broken, I decided to begin documenting some of it for fun and to look back on how we progressed.
Hi Mike - It is up to you and I did this using only Box store available materials to make it simple for the diyer. This is what I used, but I encourage you to go down and play with the molding and lattice to customize the look. It can be a lot of fun. Well for wood dorks like me it is anyway. www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgrain-Millwork-WM-267-1-4-in-x-1-5-16-in-x-96-in-Solid-Pine-Lattice-Moulding-10004466/206178822
Good Idea.. although it does take away cutting depth for when cutting boards. And also the risk of getting warped wood untruing the perpendicularity of the miter saw. But its a great idea for when the job requires multiple cuts. It shows how sometimes ones smartness can make more use out of the tool.
All Good points Jeffrey, this is a construction trick for cutting things like studs, etc. you can actually draw a story stick on the board and just clamp as needed. If you are worried about warping you can use MDF instead of wood, and if if you are really crazy like me, check out the video where I show how to use aluminum extrusions. Happy Building!
It was fun to open. People like mystery, but would have been a better special is some boxes came with something really good. In this case, it just is what is, very basic marginally useful stuff.
Hi Blinket, sorry I was slow on this as I had to fold it up and make some space. If it is standing upright with the fences and guard stowed and blade retracted, it is approximately 36" high, 23" deep and 21" wide. It is hard to measure all the protrusions, but that is pretty close, If you need a more specific measurement because you are. thinking on building something for it, let me know. I'm happy to get it for you.
Thanks I have the first worx vacuum that came mine works great I do not have trees my neighbors do I pick leaves now in the past just grass and a few leaves very happy with my first edition worx
I think that is what it excels at. The quick cleanups. i'm in a similar situation where I have two trees on my property, but the neighbors often only do one cleanup so everything blows over to me. This helps to keepo that manageable if I don't let it build up.
First off, your a Mets fan or a Met for all I know, but that makes your standing with me top notch since I already know you have a high IQ and aptitude to do anything. Something all Mets fans have in common :). Corners are not really hard as almost everything is the same, but there a couple of extra steps. 1. When you install the top plates, Miter them in the corner. It looks nicer than but joining them. 2. To keep your corners looking nice and so they line up perfectly, you need to put some alignment joinery in. This can be a domino, but for the rest of us without one like me, I use two dowels put in with a self centering dowel jig, There are expensive jigs and cheap ones less than $50, but you can also make your own easily. you just need the hole to be in the same spot on both sides. Another option is to use a biscuit. Wen ,makes one that is really cheap. Here is my review of it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8TmsBYj4Vu0.html. Once you do choose which one, go ahead and cut them, but don't glue the joint. This is just to hold them in line cosmetically and by not gluing you leave room for the wood to expand. If you are painting the covers you can use a high stretch caulk to seal the seam if you don't like it, but honestly it will be barely noticeable. 3. The rails and styles are the same as in the video except in the corner. In the corner, you will but the two end styles together to form an L, so make sure you cut one larger my the width of the material so the revealed part on both sides is the same. For example, if you want 4 inch styles at the ends and the material thickness is 3/4 cut one 4 inches and the other at 4.75. When you put they together there will be 4 inches going in both directions from the seem. You can use the alignment joinery trick here as well, but honestly the friction hold works just fine to keep them in place generally. another step you could take is to put a pocket hole on the backside on the corner joint and after it all assembled just put in the screw to pull it tight. just place the pocket hole is a place where the radiator fins won't get in the way so you can fit an angle screw adapter and bit through the slot to get at the screw if you fo this route. This might seem complicated but it really isn't. Of course if you have any questions I'm here to help you with your project. Have a great week and happy building! and GO METS! Ken
Good morning. It can get a little sticky as it heats up but essentially you are destroying the bond. Once it releases it is done and won’t make a bond again like hot glue would. If you want to re-glue the surface you’ll need to try and get the remaining glue off as best you can and apply new glue and let it cure again.
Thanks Gary! I use a 1/2 inch gap from the studs for most rooms. The drywall will cover most of it and the trim will cover the rest. For a really big room or if you are continuing floors between room use 3/4 as the expansion will compound across the run. If you keep 1/2 to 3/4 you should be fine with common wood flooring species and have no issue covers the gap with the drywall and trim.
Hi Jay. I leave the original on for two reasons. Well three if you count they are a pain to remove. The first is the old ones act as a support to hook the new ones on too and hold them in place. The most important reason though is that metal back acts as a reflector preventing the heat from being absorbed into the drywall and helps improves the efficiency of the system. Hope that helps.
I think is does what it is designed for which is quick cleanups. This is not for bagging a full fall cleanup if you let it go. Ouse it to clear the driveway and neaten up the front of the house and am pretty happy with it. At least at the price tag around 100.
Smartt Hubby. I'm already recording the final configuration and it looks like it will be nice. Ask the hubby if he has any ideas on what I should run it.
I laughed hard enough to literally spit out the apple I was eating when you made the joke about RU-vid changing their policy on providing a SawStop…well played!
I did look at the official Incra instructions and it's saying that you need 10 inches between the miter slot and the sides of the table. I think your saw, like mine, doesn't have that much. But it looks like it still works pretty well?
@@stevemcirvin Hi Steve - This is what I did. I read that spec as needing 10 inches right of the blade. On my DeWalt it has a material support built into the fence. I use that to support the sled. The key is to make sure you still have an inch of space between the edge of the sled and the actual fence. If the fence touches the sled you could get a kickback if it pinches. Right or wrong that is how I use mine and it has worked for my needs, At least until they finally send my SawStop! Safety first though - only do cuts you feel comfortable with and never trust anyone on the internet :) Unless that internet person has a Sawstop then just do whatever they say :P
Sure - Are you looking to buy the Router table kit or a specific stand. The stands come in lots of sizes and I don't want to give you the wrong numbers. If you are having this cut for you I'd give yourself a little wiggle room. If you are going to cut the pieces yourself, I'll get you the dimensions of mine, but know there might be a little variation and you might need to trim to get a nice fit.
Would have been good if we could've seen finished project but you were too close up on door could not see top until end when all the subscribers words were on video.
Hi - the last 30 second of the video had pans across all the finished product. Right after the logo pops up for second at the 10 minute ish mark. Hope that helps and have a great weekend!
If you are using a hardwood that is probably fine. The issue would be more does the wood warp a little without the spacer to hold it straight. maybe put some decorative mesh in the holes to help keep it true.
I did a long one without a wood center support. To help offset the weight, I connected the long piece to the top plate using an L bracket. It’s inside and difficult to see. And if someone looks that deep into my baseboard, I don’t want them in my house 😂
@@PadillaKids Great job. The reality is probably need to worry more about twisting than sagging since it sits on top of the original radiator top. Properly dried hardwood would mitigate that.
This looks totally awesome and it's a great and truly helpful video. Thanks so much for this. I'm just a little queasy about the whole fire safety question. Could you say a bit more about why you are not worried about the wood catching fire or the paint on the wood? Also, would it affect heat efficiency or operation of the radiator if I installed a metal radiator grille or screen without leaving openings at the top and the bottom for the air to flow in and out (i.e. the air would only go through the grille)?
Before I give my answer, I would say if you are really worried confirm with the local fire department ... But baseboard heating with water is old tech and designed to be safe, the water flowing through the baseboards is less than 200 degrees. For comparison paper combusts at 450 degrees. (By the way so will you) These types of heating systems need to be safe with thing like drapes, kids and there toys toys, pets, fabric furniture, etc coming in contact with them. Wood would take several hours at 400-500 degrees to ignite. These are oven temperatures. That said, if you have electric baseboard heat, you likely want to stay away from this. As for efficiency, you need a way for air to come in at the floor and exit the top after passing through the fins, A completely open or metal mesh front would be fine. The key is airflow. Some people think the heat radiates of the the metal, but it actually causes an airflow where cold air on the floor near the radiator heats up and starts to rise. As the hot air rises it is replaced with cooler air, causing a circular convection current heating the room. The paint itself once dried probably has a resistance to somewhere north of 250 degrees. You need to remember the walls touching the same area are painted and the copper pipes with the hottest water pass though the wood, joists and wall cavities to get around the house. The hottest temperatures are the pipes that come right off the boiler. I hope that helps.
@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Thanks a lot, yes, this is very helpful. I have some baseboard heaters in a space where I would like to install built-in floor to ceiling bookcases, and I'm trying to find out how best to build around them/integrate them into the design of a "library" wall. From what you're saying that shouldn't be a problem if I leave enough space for the air to circulate. Many thanks, great food for thought!
I'd probably raise the bookshelves up and use a false bottom on it to make sure I had room to service the radiator and clean it. You can also probably post on a heating forum to see what the recommended clearance is for air flow.
Thank you! I am still trying to build a simple but effective dust shield/collector for my old DeWalt miter saw. If you have any thoughts please share! Best
I do - Here is what use. shopnationstore.com/products/dewalt-dws779-780-miter-saw-dust-collection I didn't want to build something big because I want the store to remain portable and Travis at Shop Nation did tons of R&D on this and honestly for the cost I couldn't come close if I made something myself and had to model the 3D parts. Here is a short I made showing it in action. ru-vid.comnqIjbSohPeA It is not perfect, but it is. the perfect compromise. Also if you want a laugh take a look at this video, where I tried to include all the feedback from this one into one single build. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-37S2bLIqKNM.html If you have any question on anything, let me know.
Not lazy, just didn't get to that yet :) If you want a laugh, watch this it shows what was there originally and why I needed the door in the first place. The fun things you find after you buy a house. But hey, that is why I created to channel, to share misery and help others learn from my mistakes :). It is much cheaper than therapy.
Thanks for sharing this, been wanting something like this for my miter saw a longer fence cuts, again thanks for your advice on this project.😊 ,and also I agree with others about not being wearing a long loose sleeved shirt, watching you give me some chills how close you get to the saw blade, so be more careful my friend.
Hi David, sorry for scaring you and I'm happy I was able to help. I used to wear button downs mainly for the sake of filming when it was cold out in the garage. I'm actually really far from the balde as this is a 12 inch saw, but it doesn't look that way on the video and don't want to set a bad example. Since then I have tried to make sure I only wear short sleeves when actually cutting. Safety is super important and I want to make sure that comes through so I will be more conscious. Thanks for your comment.
Happy I could help Jen. I made a second miter saw video which is a little tongue in cheek on how I upgraded this based on user feedback. There are some practical upgrades in it though that might give you some ideas on how you can make this your own without spending a ton of money.
Any suggestions on separating glued wood that's been bonded together for 15 years? I want to use a bed frame that has rails for slates and I have a stand alone metal mattress platform to use instead. Hope that is understandable.
I’m getting ready to try this at home and I’m super psyched! I measured my old ones that look identical to yours and they measure 3 inches. Can I get away with a 3 inch top plate? Feels like 4 would take up a lot of floor space
Everyone is a little different, but you need to make sure the top plate covers the front panel which is 3/4" and still leaves room to not touch the radiator fins. If that doesn't make sense let me know and I can talk you through measuring to make sure you have enough room.
I found a (cheaper) and faster way to make this work. I used the same top width you recommended and instead, used 5inch sheets of shiplap as the face since it’s only .67 inches deep. They’re not nearly as pretty as yours, but it actually came out nice. I mean, anything is better than the metal ones we had before. Thanks for all your help.
@@PadillaKids Sounds great. I made this video to show a basic technique and always hoped people would use it as a jumping off point to make their own designs. So happy you tried it and I'm sure it looks awesome!
Glad I could help. For the size and weight I don't think you can beat it. There are some slightly larger models but in my opinion are great as portable saws. Eventually I will upgrade to a cabinet saw, but I would never get rid of this for the portability.
Thanks for the video, I suggest removing the battery when changing the sandpaper to avoid accidentally flipping that switch while your hands are on it.
The fence is definitely the weak link in the Kreg system. Still a great system, but the scales should be built in and the fence shouldn’t be damaged at all…..at these prices.
Thanks - hard to find the spec. 20 seems reasonable though. I actually tightened it not enough and got a tony leak. Then I tightened a little more 1/8 turn and the leak stopped. Still no leak years later.
I just bought one and I think it's a quality machine but it has its limitations. We have a magnolia tree and the leaves are big and tough. I can't say using this with those leaves is much easier than scooping by hand and tossing into a garbage can. With normal leaves I think it would be much better.
Your miter saw appears to have a hold down. One could use this hold down to hold down a bit of wood at the desired distance from the blade thus acting as a stop. Additionally the saw stand you have has flip up stops on the sliding stock supports so you in fact have one of those fancy miter saws with stops. Good solution otherwise for people who may not have the features that you do.
Hi David - you are correct. I do have those options and made this video for people who might not have those option. However the playing the stop of the stand does cause some imprecision. Don’t get me wrong you could frame a house with this system, but it you were building a piece of furniture, the little bit of flex is enough to cause wobbly legs and joints with gaps. This simple setup makes everything almost perfect even for those high precision application where the part length needs to perfect across multiple members. It is also much more portable than building a dedicated stand. If you want to see a fun build I did an updated portable stand where budget was not issue and tried to incorporate every upgrade on this thread for fun. Let’s just say it is t for the budget faint of heart :). Thanks for watching and for the comment. Happy building!
Good review, I’m on the fence about a jointer. I don’t really have have much space which is why I started researching this model. In the meantime I’ve been getting by with a planer, table saw and jigs. Thank you for the review
You are welcome. I think the choice comes down to what kind of work you want to do. If you do small pieces a lot this will likely work for you. For the occasional big project you can you a sled and your planer to joint most boards. It is slower, but not a big deal. Ultimately, if I was doing a lot of bigger pieces like full sized furniture, built ins, etc. I would have gone with something bigger. This is a good benchtop jointer though with a nice capacity. It is a benchtop jointer though and is limited in what it can do. Make sure you expectations are in line with what it should be capable of doing and I think it makes the choice easier. It is very compact and light making it easy to move. In my shop (a one car garage) I have it bolted to a work surface to keep it steady as a push through things that are way too big, so I might be missing out on the space savings. I did build the super dooper shop scooter to sit under it and fit both my compressor and spindle sander. If you are looking to save space check out that scooter video. Happy building!
I might do another unboxing to see the newer boxes. Let me know if it is something of interest. Right now my opinion is they an ok gift for a new woodworker or maker that has nothing yet and you have no idea what to get them. buy for the 50 bucks I put together a gift guide of alternatives that would be better.
Glad I watched your review. Was thinking about ordering a more expensive mystery box and I think I’m going to pass. You say you got your moneys worth but I don’t think so. Especially since Taylor Tools offers sales sometime. I’d rather just buy what in red rather than double up on tools I own
Totally understand. I see this as either a fun to open kind of thing or a good gift for someone just getting in to the hobby. It did make a fun stocking stuffer.
Easy repeatable cuts? Built my own mitre saw bench 40 years ago. C clamp and a block of wood, done for the next 40 years. Still have it in the shed, pull it out by hand set it on the saw horses and ready to go in five minutes for two cuts of an hundred.
Same theory, When I made this video the tip was more for working on location being able to pop something together with scrap. Simple works as you know :)
That Looks like Radiata Pine which is different than a standard #2 pine... either way pine will still move and contort with moisture and humidity since it's not a hard wood. This way may be effective in a one off situation but not reliable in a long term application. If that's your goal attach a base plate to it , to keep the wings straight!!
I bought the same nailer to do 700 sqft of 3/4 red oak hardwood. I used 2 in flooring cleats. It says to test the nailer at 80 lbs. I tried it at 80 lbs psi and that was a good setting...not too weak and not too strong. The manufacturer includes a tiny amount of pneumatic oil that leaks from the little bottle. My nailer won't fire after doing about 300 sqft. I think maybe it needed more oil. I will try more oil and see what happens. Definitely better than renting this tool. Hardwood flooring for DIY'ers takes a lot longer than you think. Update....had to remove bottom bolts and take the plate off. Found small pieces of nail causing jam. I removed the pieces and put back together. There is a small tool that is T shape mounted on the bottom for clearing jams. Works again!
The cutting is what slowed me down, but all in all I think it is a doable project. I have a video of me doing my floors if you search the channel. The finishing was the harder part. I laid down close to 2000 sqf of oak with no issues and no misfires.
I knew what your solution would be because by accident I had a lightbulb moment years ago. I'm glad you shared on this video. I'm selfish and too lazy to have a YT channel. PVA is a plastic so like most plastics they soften. I use hot glue as well for an extra hand. I'm enjoying your channel. New subscriber.
Thanks William! Glad you are enjoying the channel and if you ever have and ideas you want to share, let me know I ll make the video for you and share the glory :). Have a great long weekend!
