I make things to make life easier and then share the ideas. I have no income due to injury and illness so I make what I can from what I have. "Creativity is intelligence having fun" Albert Einstein.
If the hole in the block was lower down you wouldn’t need an “anti rotation pin” - just cut a flat on the bottom of the plunger with a couple of thou clearance of the base plate.
awesome BTW nells, have you become a flat earther yet? If not I suggest viewing the 13 part series _what on earth happened_ in my about to learn how the earth is not a globe
Might be a good idea to watch the two other uploads. The third and last video with +50k views shows how it works. It's very simple and basic but works. Thanks for coming by and commenting. All the very best to you. Neil 😊😊
Nice design. I’d add one thing to it though. I’d put a small flat on the shaft where your clamping screw is. This way it won’t get messed up from the clamping screw. Or you could use a screw with a nylon tip as well. Good job young man 🤙🏻
It will never beat a properly sharpened or new end mill, but it saves a shed load of money replacing slightly blunted or chipped tools. Thanks for coming by, Cheers Neil
Hi Steve and thanks for the kind comment. It was an out of the head idea and design. Works well but as others have mentioned, the ratio needs to be increased. Cheers Neil
Thanks for coming by! It was only done to make life easier for me. If it helps anyone else, it's a massive bonus 😊 Thanks so much for commenting. Cheers Neil
Any chance you have any drawings for this tool. I am a total newbie to anything to do with machining. All the help with learning from other ideas/drawing would help a lot.. Cheers. from Aust.
Hi there ! Sorry my friend but I don't work from drawings. I design everything in my head as I make each individual part. That's why sometimes things dont quite work. Think of this as a balance scale or a seesaw. There is more weight on the side that touches the cutting tool so it stays in contact because of gravity. The pointer is directly above the pivot hole and needs to be a minimum of 4 times longer that the distance from the pivot hole to the point where the cutting tool touches. This gives you a ratio of 4:1. That's it really. Make a small seesaw on the table and move the pivot point back and fore. You will see how it can effect the amount of travel. Cheers Neil
Sorry to hear that. I bought from a company in the uk called RDG. They do mail order and sell on ebay. Prices have gone up but are still under $50. Look on Ebay you might get lucky. Cheers Neil
Try this link, $50 on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265256180553?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=m1PNtpB0Tsi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=12o7hixpRZS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Well, you get what you pay for. I bought a Bucktool 8” grinder a year ago. It’s ok. The motor is underpowered though. It has two speeds. The fast speed takes about 15 seconds to come up to speed. It works well enough if you don’t push it too hard.
It was only an idea floating around inside my head. If you read some of the comments, you will see that we all decided on a shorter arm that sits on the tool and a longer pointer. Greater ratio so more accurate. Thanks for coming by, Cheers Neil
Hi Bradley. No, I'm afraid I dont know the bearing numbers. It was 1942 and details are very limited. When I'm well enough, I'll take a trip to the workshop and pop a bearing out. I will look for numbers or identifying Mark's and post my findings. Cheers Neil
@@NellsMechanicalManCave Thanks Neil, I hope you feel better soon. If all goes well I'll be picking one of these beasts up tomorrow for about 150 pounds, seller says it just has to go and the headstock is a little wobbly, not sure about the bedways though. Is there anything you can tell me to look out for / test before I buy it? Thanks once again.
@NellsMechanicalManCave Hi Niel, sorry for the second message but do you know where those axis wheels you have came from? I can see they're quite nice and have obvious divisions for somewhat accurate tool movement but the one I'm looking at has generic handles and no divisions? Thanks once again
Hi, Think I went for a 300 grit. I did a Google search and read a thread in practical machinist that said over 150 and below 500. Over 500 requires water cooling and 1200 gives a mirror finish. Cheers Neil
Hi Scotydog. Us taffy's are a rare breed on here. Been trying to get a 57 year old project (me) operational for the last months. I hope that all the failing bits will be sorted soon and I can get back in the shed and share some ideas. Cheers Neil 😊
Found the translate now. Yes you can sharpen 5 cutting faces. You would need to machine a 5 sided block (pentagon) to hold the cutting tool though. Same goes for a 3 flute cutter. Cheers Neil 😊
Made one!! Very similar, pointer probably four times longer than yours. So quick to swap tools around in holders now. I was making more and more tool holders, because of the hassle changing tools (I'm up to twenty two holders). So thank you very much.
Mark !!! That's excellent.... So pleased that one of my ideas has helped someone. As you said, setting a new tool to height is unbelievably quick using this simple tool. Thanks for letting me know, you made my day 😊😊😊 Cheers Neil
Yeah my neighbour has one of these currently, I borrowed it and he said the same regarding how much the belts were. Gave it back after a few weeks with 2x 3 packs of new belts that I ordered as a thank you for less than £35 for the lot. Also knowing that the belts are of a slightly weird size (50x1020) it's cheaper to make your own belts which I did for the time that I used it which is a really easy process and soooooo cheap to do. The company doesn't make ANY of their own power tools anymore, all Chinese made (doesn't mean they're rubbish, just mis-leading).
Well done Neil, I like your design as I lost an eye and it is very difficult to accurately set a gauge with one eye and I normally to check by feel but I do make errors.Your method with the needle seems to be the best for my case,thank you I will get to it asap.
Hi Grey, As stated,, increase the ratio between the arm and the indicator pointer. Other than that , it works great. Thanks fir coming by 😊 Cheers Neil!
Hi David. It works well but,,,,, The ratio between the arm and indicator needs to be greater and a real bearing used at the pivot point. When I get back in the workshop I will make these changes myself. Thanks for coming by and commenting, Cheers Neil
I have been searching high and low trying to find an accurate way to sharpen my end mills myself, I seen this style in a book but forgot the name of the book. I guarantee I’ll be building and trying this fixture. Thank you for putting this up Neil. I’ll be watching all 3 vids. I’m also on a shoestring budget
Hi, The idea came from a book by Harold Hall and Mr Factotum ( Kev) did a few videos on the design. I don't know the exact name of the book but Kev mentions it so it's easy to look up. Cheers Neil.
Hj. I got my wheel from a company in the UK called RDG Tools. Their Web address is www.rdgtools.co.uk Go to the search on the site and look up flat diamond grinding wheel. They are on Ebay too. Sorry I can't do a link, I tried and failed Cheers Neil
Good afternoon. We protect ourselves from dust with surgical, disposable masks. And when we sharpen our incisors, we also wear them. A colleague wanted to ask you at what engine speeds do you process metal with these cutters?
Hi. This bench grinder runs at 2800rpm. I was careful to buy a diamond wheel that had a higher maximum speed. To my best recollection the wheel is rated at 3500rpm. Thanks Neil
@@Сутьділа there are charts on the Internet to show rotation speed of the cutter and also travel over the cutting surface. A lot depends on the size of cutter and also the material being machined. I am not a machinist and mostly guess
@@NellsMechanicalManCave The cutter is 16 mm, the metal is regular black steel, grade 3, and steel 45 is not hardened. Manual feed is slow. And another question, the smaller the cut, the higher the speed? Thank you, I'm just starting to master the router...
Sorry, can't find a way to translate and sadly I'm not that clever enough to speak or read any other language. Britain isn't that great in all honesty. Many thanks Neil 😊
Sorry Eddie, Didn't see your comment. I think it's a very basic tool but can save money in a small shop. Things are very expensive at the moment and any saving means spare money for other items. Hopefully things will get easier and I can buy materials again soon 😊 Thanks Neil
Hi. Sadly this is something that I can't help you with at the moment. I can't go into detail but I have been taken ill and it could be months before I get back in the workshop. I can do a drawing if you like which will allow you to make the parts and get it welded locally. Email me and I'll forward what I can. Cheers Neil
Very good video and design, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I would like the stl file but can’t seem to find your email address? Thanks for video nonetheless
Hj Mick! If you make one, keep the hammer arm short and the indicator needle long. The higher the ratio, the greater the accuracy. Good to hear from you, Cheers Neil
That big red mountain peak of a stop/start button annoys me and put me off a purchase. It's a dear enough hobbyist-grade system. The american made models don't appear to have that. Still, it's a nice addition. Although when you turned the camera around and displayed an industrial purpose mill and lathe, I nearly sh*t. That's some serious gear. Interesting video, thank you!
Yes that stop start switch annoys me too. Think it's to comply with EU safety standards. It's not going to be there long though, theres enough space in the case to fit it in I think. Yes the lathe and mill are a good size. There are several flights of steep steps to get down to the workshop so everything was stripped and then rebuilt 😊😊😊
