With a total passion for woodworking and design that i'd love to share and pass on in an inspiring way. I hope each video i make can portray the desire and passion i have to pass on to as many viewers as possible.
I just wanted to say thanks and let you know your posts make a difference. I am a newcomer to wood working and this gave me the motivation and confidence to tackle my first large project. Thanks and keep posting
@@APBourneBespoke would love to send you a photo. But can’t seem to do so in these comments. I started following you couple years ago. Was made redundant last August from a business position just prior to retirement. Got motivated and started a small shop and taught myself (through videos like yours) It took some time ( I worked slow steady and deliberately learning along the way) Used a rough slab of oak from a mill close to me here in Gloucestershire Have since found Sapele a bit easier to work with Started on my windows last week!
exactly what i was looking for... my old home was banged together by someone who clearly had NO idea what they were doing, and didn't seem to care. i took the old growth Doug Fir deck joists that were rotted (because they covered it with OSB then painted it)... cut the top rotted part off with the rotted drywall screws still in it, planed them up (3 x 14) and used some for the new deck railings and now am doing doors. and i needed help with the frames themselves - this is perfect - i'm taking 2" x 8", and cutting the stop as you did... never built a door frame before so just nice to have someone hold my 'virtual hand'.
There is a link below to the oil I use. It will darken the timber though as all oils do. There is 1 product from Osmo that has a white pigment within it which keeps the wood looking really close to its original colour prior to oiling, but it’s an oil that’s only to be used internally. www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil
Glad you enjoyed the video. I hope it was helpful. The door lock itself is a standard mortice lock, you then buy the rebate faceplate kit to go with it to suit the doors. You then use the rebate faceplate kit instead of the keep that comes with the lock. I’ve attached links below to both for you. www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/hampstead-architectural-rebate-kit-for-din-euro-sashlock-and-bathroom-lock-satin-stainless-steel-931805 www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/era-fortress-bs3621:2007-5-lever-sashlock-79mm-case-56mm-backset-satin-chrome-565600 Kind Regards Adrian
Thanks for the feedback the paint I use is from a company called Morrells. It’s not readily available I’m afraid as it’s a professionally spray applied paint. If I was buying off the shelf I would use Dulux. I’ve attached a link below to a reputable supplier in the UK. www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/dulux-trade-ultimate-opaque?gclid=CjwKCAjwtuOlBhBREiwA7agf1sv2v8yFXi-eL-CENUk-A0IgVEJ7rMRYe4a6ausA2jwc7mFZFmJx2hoC7YsQAvD_BwE>in=5010212569030 Hope the build goes well. Adey
Beautiful design, I am trying to make one for my 7 year old I have a 18"h x 48" .... Would you help me determine the leg dimensions, thank you in advance!
I’ve attached this link for you of the hinges I use. Hope this helps. www.amazon.co.uk/OTOTEC-Locking-Folding-Brackets-Furniture/dp/B07K23JX7D/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?crid=375DYXE045SMU&keywords=folding+table+hinges+self+locking&qid=1682542581&sprefix=table+hinges%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-37 Kind Regards Adrian
Hi If you scroll down in the description below the video there are a couple of links to the associated drawing for the board. There is also a link to a leg for a 500mm high board should you wish to make one, it also had an additional radius which helps the board grip the playing surface better.
Hi, could you tell me the size of the board you use for the front? I see the measurements for the support, but i didnt see any for the front board. Thanks
Excellent video, thank you for putting in the effort to make it, I need to make a custom security door/shutter 50"X30" to fit in front of a ground-level casement window for egress only and this helped a lot in working out how to do it. I live in North America, otherwise, I would hire you to do it.
Hi Russell You can get the timber this size from reputable timber merchants. I purchased mine from a company called East Kent Timber. Link below www.eastkenttimber.co.uk/
My daughter and I built something similar but seems that the wood is too light? When you kick the ball to it, it bounces around and moves… any recommendations?
Hi I put an old mannequin weight behind mine on a 3G surface but on grass it doesn’t move much I just dig the point on the rear curve into the grass a little which reduces the amount mine moves. A few coaches I know just plonk an old bag of sand behind them if they are a bit lively.
Definitely ensure it is well coated in an external grade paint/or stain. If painting, a clear preserver can be used first followed by a coat of primer then at least two top coats of finish paint. If staining, a preserver first followed by at least two coats of your finish stain. The link below is for a Dulux 3 part system which I’ve used on my own home joinery and still looks great today, 5 years after being applied. www.dulux.co.uk/en/articles/weathershield-exterior-system Also this is a link for a top quality stain which all my decorators recommend. www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/sikkens-cetol-hls-plus?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItsSM3vD99wIVlu7tCh0mjASJEAQYESABEgLMMfD_BwE>in=8711115288369 I hope this answers your question. Adey
The frame looks really good! When you assembled the frame, did you screw through the cill and head into the Jambs or glue only? and also when you fitted the draft gasket did you glue it in? Thanks
When I assembled the frame I used glue only. The gasket fits purely with friction and no glue is needed. The gasket holds really well on its own. I’ve made quite a few frames and the gasket holds really well without glue. I’ve attached a link to the gasket details for your reference. ironmongerydirect-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/product-documentation/drawings/371108.pdf
Hi Ciaran Without seeing the board I couldn’t really say for sure. It’s most likely the angles or the measurements for the legs that are slightly out. In the video I attached lippings to the board and legs, if you haven’t used these it may throw your measurements off a bit. With the newer version I’ve curved the top of the leg which alleviates this for you, meaning if your slightly off with your measurements it will still sit fine but the angle it sits at will be slightly different but fine for use. I hope this helps. Adey
Hi Geoff Absolutely agree.Initially I’d forgot the capillary groove but I I cut one in after the video was shot. There is a graphic within the video showing this once I’d noticed.
Hi I spray mine with an external paint. Any external wood paint should be fine though. The key is to put at least 1 coat of wood primer on first. This will help the final coat stay on longer.
I’ve attached a link below for you of the same hinges as what I’ve used in the video. Adey www.onbuy.com/gb/4x-iron-locking-folding-table-chair-leg-brackets-hinge-self-lock-foldable-hinges~c13056~p23442171/?exta=gshp&stat=eyJpcCI6IjExLjA0MDAiLCJkcCI6bnVsbCwibGlkIjo4MjU4MTg2OCwicyI6bnVsbCwidCI6MTY0OTM5Mzg0NCwiYm1jIjowfQ==&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W7I8YNpDpW7_7GFZ4PX8EA78YLuLavyIT4cinLtRNEtkdhu7EGAzeBoCkNQQAvD_BwE
Hi Adey, great videos! Would someone installing this in a property (replacing existing uPVC door & frame) need to get sign off from the council/Building Regs, etc?
Yes. Any change of external joinery should meet current building regs. Additionally if you’re building is listed or you are in an area of outstanding natural beauty you will need additional permissions. This can get quite complex to explain so I’ve attached a link below to the planning portal which is a great resource for basic building regs/planning questions. Adey .www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/14/doors_and_windows/2
Hi Mark Thanks so much for the feedback. I did the gates a few years back and never filmed any of the work. I’m trying to upload more but as you’ll know everyone, including myself is so busy that it’s hard to find the time. Thanks for subscribing. Adey
Hi - build went great thanks for the awesome video. Any one figure something out to stop it from slipping on turf? I have a 15 year old and the board slip or slide a little each time she gives it a pass. Thanks.
This is definitely something I’ve thought about. If being used on grass it could possibly be pegged down by maybe drilling a couple of holes in the legs and slipping some ground pegs through the holes into the grass. It’s different thing altogether if your on astroturf. It’s a definite no to pegging through it. The other option is extra weight. We have a professional coach locally here in the UK who has a couple of my boards. He uses an old mannequin weight behind the boards which helps. Personally I think a sand bag is a good option. The difficulty is that you then have to take a sandbag everywhere with the board... It’s a case of weight against convenience. I may make another film looking into the best way to alleviate this. It’s definitely weight that helps the board, it’s just how heavy you want it bearing in mind you’ll need to keep moving it around the pitch.
@@APBourneBespoke I am thinking about adding some plastidip to the bottom of the boards and legs to see if that provides enough friction. I will research a few other options before. Again thanks for all the help.
Hi Yes the legs are flush with the bottom. If you cut the board exactly as per the drawing, when you flip it over it enables the angled ball returns. Hope the build goes well for you.
I’d love to hear everyone’s thoughts on this video. Especially what I can do to improve any future videos for you in the future. Less music, more commentary. Shorter, longer...... let me know.
I'd like to see a video of the installation of the door into the jams and into the house opening. from saw to completion. Nice video, love your shop, quality, techniques and presentation
ADHD here we go, loved the vid however, a better explanation ie what’s going through your mind your thought process, if you will, why you do it that way etc etc, oh and please please ensure you stock is flat to the saw when sawing I cringed when I saw that, as I, mr safety consensus have reaped the rewards of that exact same error, yep a two for one-er both elbow and hip bone, and please that push stick, the blade when doing a trenching cut puts force up and towards the operator your stick is only holding the back down, I know in this instance there’s plenty of weight at the front to hold the stock down but I’m sure you trench out shorter stock and that’s when you literally get you teeth in to your work, imagine a side profile of an old wooden jack plane but only 20mm wide and 8” tall with a hook on the back that what I use, it’s comfortable I can put more pressure onto the stock and it’s never let me down don’t mean to ramble on, but again loved the vid fella keep up the good work.
@jasongraham9076 Hi Jason Thank you so much for the feedback. It really is appreciated. Each and every point you’ve made is constructive and helpful. I’ve taken on board all of your comments and will certainly review what’s needed. With reference to the commentary/presentation, I couldn’t agree more, it’s just something that I find quite difficult, it also requires a lot more time and editing to get right, time is something I’m afraid I don’t have much of. My time is committed to my family, RU-vid is more of a fun hobby. I’m sure that I could find the time to make myself a few new push sticks though 😉 Thanks Adey
@@jasongraham9076 Hi Jason Thanks for the feedback it really is appreciated. It’s nice to have some useful constructive feedback. I’ve taken everything you’ve said on board. With reference to the presentation/commentary, it’s something I find quite difficult, hence the reason there isn’t so much. It also takes a lot of time to do and edit, time I struggle to find. I spend all my spare time with my family. RU-vid is a fun hobby which is done in those spare moments. I can certainly find the time though to make a new push stick 😉 Adey
Have you made one of these Rebound Boards for yourself. If you have, I’d love to hear how you got on. Did you find it relatively simple to make, was it difficult. Would you design it differently. Have you made one using different materials. How did you find using it ? Leave a comment, I’d love to hear everyone’s feedback, Thank you all so much for watching the video. Adrian
@@lukefredriksen7417 Hi Luke Link below. www.amazon.com/Locking-Folding-Foldable-Hinges-Brackets/dp/B07QHX3Q8Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=locking+hinges&qid=1611607090&sr=8-9
We're in the process at the moment. Resources are tight so there won't be any timber lippings and the ply we could get was offcuts so the board ended up being 460mm tall. We realised that the legs would lift the board off the ground in the tilted position. We've cut them down and it seems to have sorted it. How did you work out the angles please? Also any tips on jigsaw techniques? We're finding the blade bends when trying to control direction. Resulting in cuts that aren't square. Amazing video, thank you. If anything more detail the better, even if it's just captions or in the description.
Hi Matthew Thanks for watching the video. I've done a drawing for you showing the dimensions (LINK BELOW), allowing you to cut legs the same angle as the originals but to suit your 460mm high board. I've left the angled and ground reference lines on the drawing, so you can see how i ensure the legs sit correctly when flipped. The key is ensuring the angled line touches all three contact points, if not, the board will not sit correctly. To stop/reduce the blade wander with the jigsaw its important you use a sharp decent quality blade and have the pendulum action set to max on the jigsaw. Additionally dont rush and force the jigsaw. Patience is the key. I'll also certainly consider more info in my future videos. Thanks for the feedback. Adey www.dropbox.com/s/3je7pen2jc68yiv/Rebound%20Board%20Amended%20Drawing%20For%20460mm%20High%20Board.jpg?dl=0
Another great video, Is your table saw a sedgwick? I need to upgrade and cant find any videos or reviews about them. Ive got their spindle moulder and mortiser but was wondering how good the table saw was. Could you do a video on it and what the set up is like?
Hi Ashley The table saw I use is a Sedgwick. I don’t have anything to compare it against, other than my previous Bosch site table saw. The one thing I can say is it has plenty of power, that plus the crosscut sliding table were the main reasons for the upgrade. It’s also much quieter than my previous table saw as it has an induction motor. To date I’ve cut all varying species of timber with it and it copes fine ripping dried oak. I may do a review on it in the future. I’ve attached the spec for the machine below. www.scosarg.com/sedgwick-ta315-circular-table-saw-bench-1ph-4-0-hp?geoip_country=GB&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0rSABhDlARIsAJtjfCexlOG5iBEWHIum7kcA7rvWcG7S0aHUarvUcnngt5WhK-n5Xd_-BEoaAiODEALw_wcB
I’m afraid not, as I made this frame for a local builder who was replacing an existing frame with this one and reusing the existing door. I’m planning though on doing a door build video in the future.
@@APBourneBespoke excellent. I look forward to that. I want to build a new door for the house we live in. Stroud, Gloucestershire. Our home A lovely little place very old. The previous owners butchered the front door and I want to make it like was originally
Great work. Love your style. What are the actual finished dimensions of the lumber? For each piece ie jambs, cill and head I see below you mention 69X94, what is the rebate depth? what thickness of door would you put in this frame? Thanks Adey appreciate your experience. Keep posting please
Hi Chris Thanks for getting in touch. Finished dimensions for the jambs and the head are 69mm x 94mm, they have a 47mm deep rebate to accommodate a 44mm thick external door plus the weather gasket. The rebates are 15mm wide which allows for 12mm to cover the door and a 2-3mm margin around the door. The cill is 69mm x 150mm with a small 6mm weather upstand which stops any wind driven rain being driven in. What’s not in the video but which was fitted later by the installer is an aluminium threshold cill www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/exitex-low-height-macclex-threshold-914mm-inward-opening-doors-mill-aluminium-227390 I hope this answers all your questions. If not, just get in touch again and I’ll gladly answer any more you may have.
