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Awesome video! I have two of these and one of them has been acting up, I wasn't sure about taking it all apart (if it was even possible) so I wanted to find a reference to see if it can or if it's all factory molded and can't be done, as they try to get you to either send it in to have it repaired at the factory or make it unrepairable so you have to buy another, which my searches only seemed to find used ones and different newer models that don't have the features this one did....So now I know I can fix this myself, very helpful video!
In my experience, all the job is done easily if you first remove the blend door actuator wich is behind the ignition assembly. It's an easy task and doing that will prevent a lot of effort in removing the ignition key assembly. Hope it helps. Thanks for the nice video and the funny remarks.
That's a good motor I've got that same you, I haven't personally because it's a 1973 engine I was born September 1st 1973 but my engine looks just as good as that one does I just got a little problem with the stator plate I got to replace again
Thanks for the video. Fixed mine in about 40 minutes. A little tedious getting the switch out and then back in but all is well. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
If you place the rubber against the housing, you see it works the engine a little when you first start the auger. It's a good idea to spray some type of lubricant to coat the impeller housing so the rubber slide in there and doesn't want to get hot (you'll smell the burnt rubber which isn't good) run it for 15 - 20 minutes to let the rubber wear into the housing. The lubricant just keeps it from getting hot and burning.
Sorry Correction for my last comment. I used a belt slightly larger not smaller than yours in the end. I actually tried two additional belts the first one was way too big but the last one was slightly larger than yours but worked perfectly the tensioner took up the slack and put it at the right tension. Duralast 805K8 2000 Ford f150 5.4 L engine Thank you for making the video it was very helpful and entertaining.
well yes you got the torque sequence completely wrong. needs to be done in 3 stages as well not all at once and never use an impact unless just to screw them in with hardly any torque. did you resurface the block with a carbide scraper? head as well? temp sensors are about $55. not sure where you got $150 from unless you go to the 2 wire quickstart ones wich are NLA and not applicable here. compression on these should be over 140psi but good they are even. gauge might be reading low.
Just got one of these. My only gripe is that I wish that little windy thing had a spot on the trimmer to clip on to it so I wont lose it in the shed somewhere. Unless there is one and I haven't found it yet.
How you doing? you're completely right about the description and repair, after waiting so long, I finally bought the ignition switch and replaced in about 20 minutes my Jeep worked as new, no more flickering or weir displays happening. Thank you a million for making this video.
just picked up the switch from the dealer, no parts store had it or would get it in the foreseeable future- paid $68.40+ tax- not only have parts skyrocketed in price, but getting your hands on them is a pain- thanks joe & the hoe go brandon!
How’s it been holding up. I got almost brand new oil less from pawn shop that was not working took apart. 20$ cambell hausfeld 20 gal. I have 5 hp with oil compressor belts. 20 gal. Cambell hausfeld. Thinking of doing something like that. Give me 40 gallon. Stripped oil less down to tank. Think with oiled compressor head might do even better. Not having worry about over heating it. Idk. Thinking. I like video.
Amazing job ! When you say the engine light was on, my abs brake light is going off too flashing and the speedometer is jumping can you confirm this is the same issue? My Jeep will just cut off ? And also says transmission over temp but the fluid is fine and looks nice and red not burned.
You did the lower unit water pump for no reason!!! Or didn't you, myself [ and I work on alot of old outboard engine. It's peace of mind. You wouldn't have none someone else change the water pump without removing. Also you didn't waste the money. You still have a new pump. I would replace the pump every 2 to 3 years anyway. You don't want to have to change out the head gasket again because of a bad water pump. Keep here running and don't forget to winterize her every year. Thanks for the time.
With that setup at first fill up from empty fill your main compressor let it cool down then fill auxillary tank that long of a duty cycle will really creat ware on that oiless pump. Nice job
