I am passionate about landscape photography and the great outdoors. Follow my adventures taking beautiful landscapes in the UK and US. My aim is to inspire with Landscape photography tips and techniques.
Follow my journey photographing landscapes from all over the UK (The Lake District, Peak District, Snowdonia and Yorkshire), Iceland, Scotland and US (California, San Francisco, Tahoe and Yosemite)
Thank you, Nigel. You explained it very clearly, and I hadn't heard it that way before. I understand it much better now. I think I'll be using automatic ISO much more often and will choose the aperture and shutter speed myself. Thanks again for the excellent explanation.
Of course the camera with more mp will produce sharper images when blown up. Should compare cameras with the same mp and same adapted lens if possible to make any sort of comparison
Thanks for adding to the confusion about the differences between "LIGHTROOM" and 'LIGHTROOM CLASSIC"! The title of this video clearly states, in bold letters, "LIGHTROOM"! But the video is actually about LIGHTROOM C L A S S I C 😡 Clickbait videos always get a 'dislike' and an assurance to not subscribe + never sharing! Plus - I never watch past the point of realizing I've been lied to!
Very random but at 10:00 the camera on the rocks makes me cringe in fear of scratching it, I always feel this way when I see stuff like this but then I literally always do it myself its weird how something that makes me super uncomfortable is something that I also do daily.
I’ve read/seen so many topics on these things, but this vid made me learn so much more as the specific issues were explained with examples…Thanks so much! I subscribed! 😊
What people never mention when comparing these sensors is the size and bulkiness of lenses. Big sensor = big heavy lenses This may not sound like a huge issue but it actually is more than most people would think. You have to be aware that transportation of several lenses in a backback will very easily make it heavy as a dead donkey, that activities like street photo will involve pointing what will feel like a goddamn missile launcher at people’s faces ; and also for equivalent focal length/quality the lenses will also be generally more expensive... I started photography with fullframe which I bought out of lacking proper knowledge about hardware and also because I read somewhere these were the best choice, but although my equipment is pretty good, bulkiness is one of the main aspects that make me think I made the wrong choice.
I'm against editing. I just can't get past the feeling that I'm creating something fake, and what's the point of taking photos of the real world if I'm going to add a fictional veneer to them.
My girlfriend and I are really lucky to live in New Zealand where there are tons of multiday hikes. I've been looking for a lens recommendation video like this! Do you think the compromise of quality by using such a wide range of zoom could be counteracted by AI sharpening software? Although not a huge fan of generative AI, I think sharpening and denoising tools like that are fantastic for people on a budget or want to hike light and choose to compromise on quality.
Just discovered your video …..! As JF Kennedy said ….”We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard.". You can apply this famous quote to our pastime or profession - indeed, we practice photography, not because it’s easy but it’s hard! I totally agree with your dialogue in the video!
Thanks and interesting. I often use CPLs as I do enjoy the images they help me render - I’m talking about places such as Australia and the American SW. Next March we’re off to Namibia and I’m concerned about blown highlights and wonder if multiple exposures taken over +/- a few stops will work? Or just get a magnetic step-up ring ND/VND. Thanks.
What’s the point in comparing A2 prints?! Feels like this video is aimed at phone and circumcised cameras users, telling them it’s ok, don’t worry. But the reality is different, SIZE MATTERS, and Hasselblad blows everyone in this test, including the photographer and the silver birch, the by a fucking mile 😂
A purely ISO invariant camera has yet to be created. The images will be similar but the image adjusted in post will almost always have more noise than the one out of camera. However it's the sort of noise you'd only notice by pixel peeping or if doing major shifts, say more than four or five EV. Often these shifts create more of a color cast. It really depends on the camera. Also, many cameras now have two or more base ISOs. For example 100 and 800 is common. As you noted, the science behind this is complex, but it comes down to analog to digital conversion and specifics of the actual sensor that are not factored in the raw image. Bumping the gain on the original analog signal is going to often be more effective than doing so on an image that's already been converted to a digital format. When I first switched to a "ISO invariant camera" (quotes only because it wasn't purely ISO invariant again) I started relying on the ISO invariance and started getting burned by it. Especially as the dynamic range drops. Case in point what Nigel says holds true, more often than not it's best to shoot at the ISO needed not the lowest ISO. I mostly take advantage of ISO invariance when I want to preserve areas that would otherwise be blown out, when I'm seeking HDR from a single shot.
If you are a pixel peeper then yes full frame gets you so much more detail and allows more light information to be captured. I make giga pixel photos that you can zoom in to see much more details. Having a FF sensor allows me to reduce the amount of shots i need to take for a panorama
if you dont have any amerya - yes you do, just buy FF, ff>apsc iso noise, bokeh dof, better overal clarity, af (sony, canon>fuji) it is not heavier or smaller or cheaper: (it may be havier, more expensive and larger) but a7c 2, a7 c r, i am a fuji user;)
Im not sure if you noticed in your test. D200 is classic and beautiful CCD sensor. Also if you want to do a real test of colours next time use same lens. D200 is amazing and I will take it anytime instead of Z7. Don’t be spoiled to use exposure preview or those AI auto focus features. The photography gets boring with them.
Hey Nigel, thanks for confirming what I am doing. I generally put my camera in manual mode to control A & S but with auto ISO. When conditions are right, the ISO is set at 64 and use A priority. Love your videos and the information you share.
Few words on that "amplification" topic, often misunderstood: In digital cameras, primarily analog (not digital!) amplification is used from ISO 100 to approximately ISO 1600 (depends on the camera). At ISO 1600 and above, digital amplification is added on top. While you can apply digital amplification later in your RAW development software, you cannot compensate for the lack of analog amplification. Analog amplification generally introduces less noise compared to digital amplification because analog-to-digital converters (ADCs) have certain noise floors. Analog amplification helps keep that noise level lower relative to the useful signal before the signal is converted into digits. Therefore, it's not a good idea to keep the ISO sensitivity low as a precautionary step to save every possible highlight, thinking you could amplify the rest later. Not only will you get more noticeable noise, but bit depth could also suffer. After you have set your desired shutter speed and aperture, increase the ISO as high as possible (without causing unrecoverable clipping - you need to determine the safe level of clipping for your camera). Auto ISO usually works well for this purpose.
The most important lesson from the entire video: it’s all about the results. Even if you find out, later, that the image was made with a less expensive camera.