Nice design but you should have lowered the top to around 3/4 the way into the drum then cut out two sections of the material at the top that way you could forge larger things and put in more wood to get a higher temperature
My understanding always was that you needed a thicker bed of coals than that or you would get too much oxygen on the steel, which leads to brittleness.
Okay boys and girls. Just a simple tip. Before drilling on something round. 1 secure in a vice of sorts. Mark where you wish to drill. Get a center punch and give it a whack use a small drill bit (roughly the size of your center punch diameter) to create a pilot hole before stepping up to your desired diameter.
Tusind tak for den gode ide, jeg har sanket brænderhuset fra et pillefyr til formalet og manglede en ide til at bruge den til esse mvh. ru-vid.com%C3%BClow
PLEASE be careful when using any high speed rotating tool while wearing GLOVES ! This can rip your hands to pieces, pulling it in to the rotating object. DANGEROUS! That manic "music" was enough to make me turn it off
Thank you so much for this video! I’d like to make the heart piece. However, I don’t have a welding machine. Are there any other option to joining that rebar together? Also, can you please tell me the measurements of the rebar used? I’m unsure as to the thickness of it.
Don't quench while in the middle of working it, only after your forge work is done. Before you quench you need to normalize the piece to take out all of the stress that was put into it during forging. To do this, heat the blade until it is non-magnetic, then run the blade through the forge to make it have a uniform colour, then let it air cool to ambient temperatures, it is suggested to have it sitting on an insulating surface like insulated firebricks, kaowool (used to insulate gas forges) or vermiculite. Do this three times. This shrinks the grain structure, making your blade stronger, and less likely to break or warp when quenching it. You are free to straighten the piece if it warps between heat cycles, but be gentle and don't heat beyond non-magnetic. After normalizing do most of your grinding work except sharpening. If you do it after you quench it will be harder to grind Make sure that the edge is still flat and blunt, or the edge will cool too quickly. before you quench it in oil, preheat the oil by dipping a red hot piece of junk metal, like rebar. Cold oil isn't wet enough, and doesn't transfer heat efficiently because it the molecules don't move between each-other easily. Finally, to quench it, heat it to non-magnetic, run it through the forge to make the colour uniform, then dip it in. With water quenching, you have to stir the water to prevent steamy gas bubbles from ruining you quench. After quenching, you need to temper, because after the quench, the blade is very hard, and very brittle. The easiest way is to stick it in an oven at 500 and wait an hour or two. After that, you can sharpen, polish, and create a handle. Make sure to dip in water if you are using a sanding belt or grinding wheel after tempering. If you get it too hot (which can totally happen with power tools), you will create a soft spot. You can tell by the metal turning purple.
