Join us as we go back to sailing, from purchasing a boat to our sailing adventures. We're now sailing in North Wales after spending a few years exploring the south coast of the UK on a Bavaria 36. Our videos are a mixture of sailing and projects. We've sailed over to the Channel Islands, down the Devon and Cornish coast, stopped in some spectacular bays, and also fixed the boat in the same locations!
Our Bavaria is a 2004 2-cabin version of the B36 cruiser range. She has a 28hp Volvo MD2030 engine with a sail drive. We have lots of technical and maintenance videos on the channel and further information on our website boatingwiththebaileys.com
Many thanks to all our subscribers for their continued support and to you for watching our videos. Please send us a comment and if our content has been useful, give it a like.
I'm very disappointed in the installation instructions .I have to buy a transducer and cable which I feel for this amount of money should been included!! so I would never buy this ever again but now I'm stuck with it
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys No. Like i can not add data for tanks and shunts. They are available in the data dop down. Seems like some widgets ae missing. i can see date in date explorer.
Tom Cunliffe did this video on navigating Portland Bill. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pC15-GNL6gY.htmlsi=o6CU6afMLmFMEIrF Mentions the fish n chips!
Hi, you should be able to create a connection between OpenPlotter/SignalK to your WiFi device and listen to the data. This guide should help openplotter.readthedocs.io/latest/signalk/multiplexing.html
Hi, well it tracks my route, I can plot a course, I can send that route to an autopilot. It can show charts for anywhere in the world, it can multiplex different data types and convert them from one type to another, it can help with system migrations, it can show AIS data... having used it for the last 3 years it has more features and options than my Axiom does, the hardest part is making it waterproof.
Yeah it can be, but just build it bit by bit and make sure like with everything else you have a backup, that's why I still run both this and an axiom. Some of the later videos will show the integrations it can do if you have come across them yet. QAB was nice. The bays were great to explore!
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thanks.. been using an old version of rpi/ o-cpn for a few years, but now considering upgrades inc later rpi /rewiring/ signal k / node red etc . Your vids are most interesting & inspiring me to get on with it!
Hi - Yeah it is strong enough to remove most of them. Just make sure whenever you do use it, you start with that side, even if you think the boat is clean. Anything sharp does give the sponge bit a hard time.
I know your're busy! I got a couple main.cpp questions about the Dallas temperature sensor section. Please respond only when you have time. You have two declared DallasTemperatureSensors* dts = new DallasTemperatureSensors(pin) statements in your code (17, 16). Does that code compile cleanly? I built two boards to connect five DS18B20 sensors to each board, for testing purposes. Each sensor connection has a 4.7 ohm resistor, as they should. All sensors connected run through one data line from the board to one data pin on the ESP32. I use uint8_t pin = 15 statement with all data running to GPIO15. I've had 5 sensors working but not consistently. Only two read consistently. Can you tell me issues you had in testing your sensors and code? If I can only get two sensors running on one board, I may have to add two Esp32 boards in my engine compartment. Have you ever used two esp32 boards with SignalK? Thank you in advance for your response. And, thank you for your patience.
Hi, Sorry i did reply but lost internet and it looks like it didn't post. Yeah, that code has complied ok and it should work. Just check the pin layout and the number of pins you have to use and you should be ok. If you want to drop us an email from our website, i'm happy to take a look at your code. You can share a picture then also and we can try and get to the bottom of it. Its also good to add one sensor at a time, even if you have added more in your code, it just work through them then 1 by 1.
Hello nice new build have you experimented with different IMU placement in the boat, big mfg like B&G want it on a bulkhead near the mast, where is your IMU located?
Hi, when you say IMU are you refering to the sensor messuring pitch and roll etc?, mine isn't central at all, its mounted on the port side. If im honest, i dont really use it, its on the list to do something with but i've just not got to it yet.
Hi, Yeah it will be able to get that information from your GPS. I found that sometimes when stopped, i dont get any heading information but you do if you have either a compas on your network or an IMU. Otherwise its needed for Pypilot and/or pitch/roll information.
Just wondering why is Home Assistant not a natural choice for such dashboards? It has all the flexibility and support of a vast community, plus it can be integrated with SignalK/Grafana easily.
Hi, Its a good question but I haven't yet seen a compass/wind wiget with the same level of detail as the one in KIP, thats now able to show bearing to waypoint and i think tidal data is next on the list as an example. Its the same with all this software, you want to borrow the best bits from each system. KIP is also incredibly efficent on the CPU when compaired to Grafana, i did some live data testing and it won hands down. I personally still think that OpenPlotter is the best of sailing/boating opensource software.
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I saw that KIP widget and it's impressive. It's a pity they decided to write a new software from scratch, though, considering HA is such a good platform for it already - especially considering it has support for so many other widgets one would want to also display, aside of the compass/widget.
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I haven’t used it yet, actually, but am a software engineer very familiar with Home Assistant and it’s an obvious choice for me for such use cases. HA is a mature, very stable project, so I’d rather use that than something that is relatively new. Mind that HA has tons of integrations already, for example Victron is very well integrated. There are sailors who use HA already for that purpose and who contribute widgets specifically designed for that use case - Google Smart Boat Innovations for example, who also have their own YT channel. In another example, you’re somewhat hacky use of ESP32 for water sensors is imho much riskier solution than using off the shelf, water resistant, reliable, cheap Zigbee sensors, which can be easily integrated into HA and which easily be multiplicated to provide the needed redundancy in such a crucial role. A lot of the stuff has already been polished to perfection in home automation realm and reinventing the wheel seems like wasted effort to me. Also, seeing your struggles with C++ ESP32 and alert messages, while ESPHome exists, makes me think that there’s whole new world for you to explore, one that is equally as rewarding but more reliable/predictable and with immense community support. I encourage you to look up sample HA dashboards to realize what kind of potential we’re talking here. Note that SignalK is still used in this scenario for NMEA, you just do most of the automation integration in Home Assistant and use its dashboard. It does come installed in Open Marine distribution, too, as far as I know. And to answer your actual question: one thing I would definitely want in that dashboard would be the camera views.
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Looks like my elaborate comment war removed, or I don't see it. In any case, I recommend checking out "Smart Boat Innovations", both the website and their YT channel, as they use HA for dashboard. I also mentioned that I think you'd be better off using regular, off-the shelf Zigbee water sensors, are they are more reliable, cheap and wireless/waterproof, instead of hacked sensors attached to ESP32. And even if you insist on ESP32, the SensESP still comes off as repetitive effort, considering that ESPHome is such a mature platform that seems perfect for the use cases, and way easier to use. SignalK is still good software for interfacing NMEA, but I would leave all the automation and dashboarding to HA, which can interface with SignalK. And one thing I would definitely want on my dashboard is camera views. See the Smart Boat Innovation for their examples.
Hi, it shouldn't be the board version, I've also had this problem. Have you tried setting that information in the uploaded code? Does that make them work? When I had this issue, I had to flash the board with a completely different set of code and then start again. Making small code changes didn't help. Let us know home you get on.
I also am having this problem. Using the captive portal, save button on wifi won’t do anything when pressed. Tried multiple boards, tried specifying the wifi ssid and password in the code. No matter what I do, they won’t connect to any wifi. Using a “normal” Arduino code works fine 😞
Interesting- maybe it is that board. My 2nd one was one of these. The FireBeetle I got from Pihut just worked, never had any issues with that one. Maybe it is the WiFi chip
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I tried setting wifi credentials in the code and also different versions of sensesp including the very latest Version 3. Nothing worked. I do have some v3 boards on order to test. I'll let you guys know how they work. Also not much help from the github community.
How do I reset my system? I've had it for a year now and I have been having some trouble with it not charging my batteries. I just got new batteries a few weeks ago.
Thanks. Looks easy, last time I did it, it needed 2527 strokes on the little lever of the pump to get all the air out. i now have a seringue and fill up the filters with diesel as much as possible before mounting them. Cheers.
Hi - yeah I was surprised by that, I thought it would take ages but it filled the primary quickly and then we got the air out of the engine filter. I also thought it might run lumpy but it didn't. That lever does feel like it's doing nothing 😀
Really a very good video. Thank you. But I have question, at 1:35 min you have to initialize the PPM, but do you take the "Currenty PPM" or the "Cumulative PPM"? Thank you very much in advance.
Thanks for your comments on the video - You take the Cumulative value, the longer you leave it to run, the more stable that value should get. Mine got to the point where it hardly changed and that was what i used.
Really enjoy your digitizing a sailboat videos. I was going over your main.cpp visual studio code. You have a duplicate line in your include statements. #include "sensesp/sensors/digital_input.h". I'm sure some geek has already mentioned it in the comments and it has been fixed.
Hi, I follow your videos but have not seen them all so maybe answer is in one of them... what is the system on the top of your engine ? is it for cooling or heating or something else ? thanx
@gg-jz7wt yes that to the header tank. With this boat having a hot water tank that's heated from the engine, the coolant gets very close to the top of the heat exchanger. Having an external tank that's above that helps to get rid of any air in the system. That pipe is the return and then the clear one with green in is to the top of the heat exchanger.
just out of interest where did you get the housing from for the speed sensor? all the ones i see online seem to have no housing which seems ridiculous?
Hi, this all came with the boat so I'm not able to comment. I would have thought that a new transducer would come with the housing, and if not that is really strange. Something like this comes with the housing.www.force4.co.uk/item/Raymarine/T910-Triducer/Y60?stock=44280&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADow_avutk6MQ-rAlfzM0MqK6FxkZ&gclid=CjwKCAjw74e1BhBnEiwAbqOAjJgy2UbNxdPIYVKne7ka-wwLwzxxAZUMR8VwmaRROftLNPWgF5VduRoCprAQAvD_BwE
Hi Matt, had an review over some things that recently stopped working and have to admit that every time i dont work with it for a while it feels like startingover again. Question i had is where and how do you code in the standard Wifi network on the ESP, I tried it once under the platformio.ini but never got it working. Any suggestions here ?
I have a question regarding how you are picking up your engine temperature. Did you just tap into the factory engine wiring harness at the temperature gauge? Or did you run a completely Different isolated temperature sensor strictly for the open plotter system? I'm getting ready to start a similar project on my houseboat and was curious if I could just use the existing engine temperature and oil pressure sensors and tap into the engine wiring harness and run it off the same sensors without messing up the accuracy of the sensor. What is your experience taught you?
Hi, I'm thanks for the question - yes mine is a separate sensor as this engine only had a temperature switch. I installed the sensor where the factory option is for the deluxe panel. When I started this i didn't want to mess with the original electronics, I wanted to be able to remove everything if it didn't work. As it happens it's been great and not caused any problems. You can tap into this stuff and use what's already on the engine but I think it's difficult to run both. I'm not sure resistive type gauges will work with two things trying to measure from the same source but would interesting to try this.
I go hunting for about a week at a time each year. It's usually overcast with rain but random scattered sun. Just looking for something that can keep my phone charged and my kids tablet. Do you think this and a 12v car battery would work? Or am i just better off with a 5 dollar 12v cigarette lighter charger for the atv
When I bought our boat in Milford haven in April, I set off to bring it to its new berth in Fleetwood Lancashire. I went from Milford round to anchor overnight in Fishguard, very sheltered and good holding had a good night sleep. Next day went Fishguard to Pellheli harbour, beautiful one and had a day off there. Next morning I headed to Hollyhead for 1 night. Now I did contact the MOD regarding sailing across Cardigan bay, best to let them know in case they are firing live rounds into the ocean 👍
Hi Nick - yeah, this summer seems a bit of a repeat of last year when it was 20knts or nothing. Fingers crossed we just get a couple of weeks with more stability 👍
Have a look at some of the recent videos from Sailing Melody. I think they are in there at the moment and they have documented their trip through the Menai Straights.
Bought the 80w Dokio (very cheap from Amazon) just for "fun". I bought another 30W panel with charger (about the same price) year before. The charger I got from the 30W panel is exactly the same as yours (but with a different "skin" but functions the exact same) and its a cheap PWM China charger ofc but it works for my application. The one I got with my 80w Dokia looks exactly the same as yours but missing a button... So I can not configure anything, I can "check" but not configure... Maybe it's an upgrade (plug and play) and maybe it's a severe downgrade... I don't know... the only thing I know atm is that the 30W panel actually is more stable sort of then this 80W Dokio... but again it's lightweight, foldable and it does put some power down... and it was dirt cheap... so can not complain much...
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Just actually tried it today sort of. Connected the same batteries (small 12v, 7,2AH AGM batterys) to both of them just to check. They are standing next to each other so getting the same sun with the same angle. And the Dokio is almost doing worse from what I can see (then again only from their charge controllers so not a true test ofc). I think the panels on the Dokia is actually what is rated (in my case 80w) but the plastic cover/protection and what not is hindering the panels... like puttin you "bare" panels behind a glass pane. So it is probably 80w (in my case 2x40w) panels for sure... but maybe delivering maybe 40-50w tops... I bought a long time a go a chinese solar panel for soldering (no covering, bare panel) and it was (as far as I remember 2w maybe just maybe 2,5w) but it was rocking... that 2-2,5w was pretty much every angle, and low sun light... bought another panel same dimensions but with a "cover" and it was not near the same output. So I'm guessing the panels is exactly what is rated but the product (with the protective cover) is not actually so great... Again my 30w panel is delivering the (it has no plastic cover) better... I don't know really the plastic does a good job also, easier to clean, longevity when you bring it to places... But I think it hinders the output of the panels for sure. I think it scatters the waves, and maybe with perfect placement it does works but remove the plastic and you don't need that perfect placement... Just my thoughts... I will test it some more, but for now my 30w (fixed panel) does seem to produce more energy then my 80w Dokio... and I think I know why. ----edit Just checked both panels (they are side by side) and now it's really low light, sun is setting)... Dokio 12,1v (so not charging as much) and my 30w doing 13v still so charging battery (somewhat). As the Dokio was so cheap (campaign of sorts) maybe I will get another one and take the plastic cover off to check the differences). I think it with the plastic cover of it will get more scattered light into the panels sort of and actually get better output overall... but yes will be prone to damage)... Would be cool to check what the difference is though... ---edit2 🙂 www.amazon.se/dp/B07JVJJH47/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07JVJJH47&pd_rd_w=GaTj4&content-id=amzn1.sym.7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_p=7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_r=ZPPVKNJQ3P0E8TZBV778&pd_rd_wg=ybcLJ&pd_rd_r=7a55f7f6-7a94-4575-b1f4-d68469c6c9e9&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw This is twice the price of what I payed (in my country from the same Dokio brand) and should output only 20w more. But I bet theese output actually 100w for longer than theese 80w (my variant) foldable does. But again... If I get 60-70w with perfect placement I'm happy with them. They are more portable and lightweight...
@alexanderwingeskog758 interested results. You will definitely get better performance from the rigid panel in the link above than a flexible one. I might take the covers off one of mine and give that a try
OK, Have I missed something? I cannot get the downloaded image '2024-06-19-OpenPlotter-v4-Starting-stable' to boot up to the installlation , all I get is a black screen with a few lines of test.
That's funny, this is exactly the system I have, too. I did make a 3d printed case to accommodate the airflow and the MacArthur hat. Love the O-charts dongle as I had lost the key in the past. Be careful with the cable going from the NVMe base to the Pi5. My hold down bracket broke. Waiting for Seatalk...
I just installed the new release of OP4. It is on a Pi5 w/ MacAuthor hat/Maiana/SenseESP. All works except that KIP Zones are no longer available. That is the Zones tab in the KIP setting is missing. Is this a know issue or a user error? Thanks for any help.
Hi - KIP zones have changed a lot since this version, in the latest version they use SignalK as the source and are system wide. You will need to set them up again from SignalK rather than in KIP, Kip will just detect them and show then without any additional changes. Go to SignalK, Data Browser and check the slider by Meta Data. You can configure Zones on that page. You can also uninstall the zones plug-in i believe but if you have a fresh install and its fully up to date it might not have been installed from the start.
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thanks, I got it working now. By default Signal K Data Browser Meta Data is/was turn off. Having is "on" is key to seeing the Zone settings. Yes, I have the "Zones" plug-in which added to the confusion. I am now removing. Kudos. Any recommendation for a source on KIP documentation ?
@dreupen there isn't really a document, some of the help points at my videos which I did for them. They are on v2.10 or 2.11 now. This was the last fundamental change which introduced the config manager/authentication. Since then it's been cosmetic and some other improvements and zones which I haven't had chance to cover KIP 2.4.1 - Lots of new features to this excellent software package! SignalK - KIP - OpenPlotter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uDas858rf6Y.html
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I am finding it a bit wanky. I first added nominal, alert, warn for my start battery which showed up as expected on the KIP radial display. I then set zones for my LiFePO4 house battery and it looks fine but now the zone are no longer displayed on the start battery KIP display. The meta data looks fine. I restarted signal K each time and still no joy. Do you have this issue?
@dreupen you have to tell Kip to display Normal and Nominal states, that's under general options in Kip, by default it only shows alerts. Has the data updated for the other battery, I found that if nothing got sent to Kip as in a data update it wouldn't show the zone.
Great to watch thank you , trying to do the same on my aquastar 27 , not sure if I can connect the ST 7000 to the new axiom 9 rv , or axiom 9+ at the moment it’s linked to my C80 . Stew , wadebridge.
Hi, thanks for your comments. It looks like it's seatalk so some connection can be made. I can't control mine directly from the axiom, I have to activate/standby from the head unit. I believe you can send it a track but I've not actually tried that since I installed it. You might need a seatalk to seatalkNG converter and then I think it depends on what else you have on that old network if that's worth the investment, if that's how all your other data gets across then like I did, it's worth it
@@BoatingwiththeBaileys many thanks for your reply , there was a speed -log and a depth also a small Raymarine 158i gps , also an analog radar , I’ve removed the speed/log transducer and fitted a pair of RV 320 transducers to go with the new 2 x 9” axioms , think I’ll run it all as two separate systems for this season as no funds left for a new radar at the moment . 🥟 stew .
Sounds like a good plan. I still haven't replaced my analog radar, i went with an upgrade on my AIS first. I think i need to do the same and start replacing my older ST60 units before i purchase a radar.
Hi, thanks for the informative video, which is much easier to understand than the provided instructions. Can you explain to me which battery I would select for a wet acid filled leisure battery please?
Thankyou just about to do this. Think I'll put a big bucket under the boom end when I remove it as mines in line with the transom. I ordered new wheels as my cars are running really rough
I´m planning on using this to charge a battery on a boat. On that battery I connect a electric motor. Should I rather connect the electric motor to this controller instead of having the motor directly connected to the battery?
I would keep your motor connected to the battery. That little controller is only really designed to switch on some lights etc, the motor might draw more than it can handle.
This video might help you. I'm using a circuit that's linked in this video for RPM, for temp it's a KUS temp sensor and a voltage divider. You can also use digital 1wire sensors which I've used for the exhaust temp and now oil temp - let me know if you need anything further - OpenPlotter - ESP32 - Circuits & Sensors - Digitising an older engine MD2030 - SensESP ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I12NdvRQNxY.html
