Hi there! My name is Brian, I'm a woodworking instructor and content creator with a mission to make fine woodworking accessible and fun for everyone. Although I have a passion for Kumiko and other Japanese woodworking techniques, and I hope to bring you easy-to-understand and detailed content on all types of woodworking, information and free plans to help inspire you to try woodworking for yourself!
The calculator didnt seem to have a note about which side of the blade has the test piece and how to account for the adjustment. I ended up doubling my error after adjustment before I saw the comments in the first video. That part really needs to be clear in the calcuator.
I have seen many videos for this kind product, but nobody mentioned that it is ONLY good for Vac less than 3HP. Otherwise, it is overloaded and will burn. For 2 HP Vac, it needs 13A current and 3HP 18A current. This procuct is designed for 15A only.
I came here because the calculator I'm using to square my fence keeps telling me to move the fence inward toward front of the sled, it keeps getting more OUT of square, and placing a square against the blade and the fence tells me it CLEARLY needs to go BACK, not forward! I think that's what you are addressing in Q4. I think it DOES make a huge difference. Going to go try it again, armed with this new knowledge,
This design also works very well for relief wood carving when using mallet tools! Just flip it over so the cleat snugs itself against your workbench and pound away with your mallet;
For my three crosscut sleds I’ve always taken my numbers written out on paper and solve with a calculator. It is a great way to get the sled accurate but one of my sleds “moved” over time, didn’t make it heavy enough. The plastic runners are a good upgrade that you can also get by cutting up an old large plastic kitchen cutting board. My wife thought I was thinking of her when I kept buying new cutting boards.
Novice here. Bought a cheap used GMC 206mm blade table saw (yeah I know). I have spent a lot of time/money trying to get good parallel and 90 degree cuts .... for very basic projects. Will use this app tomorrow to finish a cheap sled. Thanks for this.
There are numerous Moxom vice builds on RU-vid. Not sure why individuals like the threaded rod projecting out the front. Why not include dog holes or dovetail grooves on the table for hold own clamps?
Good idea BUT!! Why not... Use three layers 1/4 inch masonite pegboard, cut to size, glue together using pre-bought pegs to align? Surely that strong enough for materials you are clamping. It also eliminates the laying out and marking and drilling of holes by hand. But if not enarge holes using drill with drill guide to go to 3/8" or even half inch dowels if desired.
Very helpful. To help anyone else with my setup-blade to the right of sled. What does the complementary angle discussion mean in simple English? Does this method still work? What adjustments are needed?
Amazing stuff, and I'm very grateful for this calculator you developed. Simple, intuitive, straight to the point, and incredibly helpful for those of us without the time or attention span to watch long detailed videos on this. Your channel has no right to have less than, at the very least, 500k subscribers, and I'm doing my part to fix that! Thanks!
Thank you for the Moxon vice video. I’m definitely going to build one. However, I have a question about your Delta jointer. I need a jointer and there is one for sale near me that looks exactly like yours. It has a good price on it. But it has no cutter head guard and I can’t find replacement parts. In your video it looks like yours was missing too and you or someone else made a replacement . If it was you can you share how you did this? Thanks, George Barron
Sure! The jointer is pretty good, although I'd recommend getting a helical head for it. I was also spooked by the lack of a guard, so I made it myself. It's basically just an inch-thick cutting board, cut into a pork-chop shape with a hole as big as the hole in the table. The real key is that the jointer still had the cutter guard spring in it. That makes sure it can spring back and forth without any further modification. If yours doesn't have the spring still installed in it, then you might have to do something different. But my process was as follows: 1. Glue up the pieces into a cutting board 2. Cut the general rounded shape, and finesse it. 3. Drill the hole for the post. 4. Get two nylon washers (one for directly above and one for below the guard), a nylock nut, and a piece of half-inch all-thread about 6-8 inches long. 5. Cut the half-inch all-thread down to length, then using a grinder cut a vertical notch into one end. This will contact the stock spring in the jointer table. 6. Install the all-thread, making sure the spring indexes inside the notch. 7. Install one nylon washer, then the guard. 8. Install the second nylon washer. 9. Install the nylock nut, making sure to tighten it just enough so the guard doesn't move, but can still move back and forth. Too tight and it will stick open. Here's a bit more on it: instagram.com/p/CJtWKYYjrBG/ Hope this helps!
@@BikeCityWoodworks Thank you! This is great info. I think the price on this jointer is good enough that I'd have room in the budget for a helical head. It is on Craig's list and the seller is slow to respond to questions but I'll see if he can tell if the return spring is still there. If not I'll pass. I'm not a safety freak but I just don't like the idea of an exposed cutter head.
Great idea with the auto switch and the sander; I don’t know why I never thought of that! Turns my cheap shop vac into a festool dust extractor on the cheap 😂.
I got this question quite a bit, so I made a separate video on this and other common questions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Szwq3R8pstQ.html
I've having some issues with panel glue-ups. The panels I create are often a bit cupped. My last glue-up is a 22mm thick seat for a stool of 35x35. In your video, you don't use a clamping force from the top to force the wood to the melamine. Wouldn't that be needed? Thanks for sharing
Great idea to use this jig. You can even mount them on your table saw in lieu of the wing, to save space but still have the extra table saw work surface. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy 😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia.
Great calculator. Anyone watching just be aware that if you cut with your material located on the left of the blade, the instruction to move the fence forward of back according to a positive or negative result is reversed.
Those remote switches seem to die in a few months. The auto switches work great if you only have one tool plugged in at a time like I do in my small garage shop. Plug the extension cord into the auto switch and use that for your tools.
I enjoyed the video but have a 'newbie' question.. what is the pivot screw.. did not put my saw together. Purchased as is. Your help would be appreciated.-- after watching the video again I now understand but might need to be made more clear for others.. finally is there an apple app and if so what is the name. Can't find it with my searching.
I don't have a great vacuum myself, it's an old Shop Vac brand that was left with the house when we bought it. I've heard really great things about the Ridgid shop vacs though.
To calculate more accurately, adjust the sample’s length to reflect the distance between the actual points where the width was measured by the callipers. For this application it’s best to have the calliper jaws closer to perpendicular to the workpiece when measuring width, otherwise it’s difficult to know at what point on the jaws the piece is actually registering. The depth of the jaws is not insignificant and could skew the effective workpiece length.
In Ng's video he does not rotate the piece to take the slice. By rotating to take the slice (5th cut) are you not compounding the error one too many times?
